Is the machine in Spin Cycle when this is happening? What part of the washer selected cycle does the Cycle Status LED say the machine cycle is in.
If it’s in the Spin Cycle I think you have a clutch issue. Do you take any error codes to the LED console display such as dC or uC?
If you stop the machine in that cycle and do a Spin Only cycle will it complete?
Do you want to DIY the fix? Let me know and I will try to help…..Rich
Testimonial: "seems to know you craft"
If you have no error code to the LED display I would go into Service Mode and read the Diag error code blocks and try to get start point for troubleshooting. This became a hobby for me when I decided to fix my machine. I work in the Telecommunications Ind. My back ground is as a electronics technician.
With no error code to start off troubleshooting read the and record the Diag Code blocks then clear the list. Let me know what codes were registered by the Control Board. As I mentioned if you want to troubleshoot I will try to help.
I forgot to ad a couple of handy links. Here is the Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
What part of the Wash Cycle does the Cycle Status LED indicate for this issue?
Rich
To both forum members.
Does your wash tub bang around during the Spin Cycle Can you do a spin only cycle with that wash load? If it won’t complete try a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket and see if the empty wash basket Spin Only cycle completes. If it does I suspect a Clutch Malfunction but I would expect to see unbalance error codes such as dC or uC.....Rich
billsulli681;
Good job!
I’m no GURU or expert just a owner that did not want to s**t can my machine with Clutch issues.
““”Does this make me a guru?”” I would say so if you remove those two green wires connections again which are cabinet ground and this would cause the issue to return. I don’t see how loss of chassis ground would cause this issue….. but I could be out in left field.
The Control Board is not referenced to machine chassis ground (A.C. neutral/gnd). The Control Board is isolated/floating from cabinet ground so I'm not quite sure of the cause and effect. The Green ground wire does also go down to the Motor Controller but again I don't see how this would cause the issue.
Since schreiner1 reports the same failure scenario maybe he can check to see if he has had the chassis ground connections separate at the same point in the console. schreiner1 can you take a look and see if this could be your issue?
Cabinet Ground and neutral are tied together in your load center as you may be aware and are at the same potential…. 0 A.C. Volts potential. As you are aware that cabinet ground would help protect you if the AC L1 120VAC line came in contact with the machine chassis. Good thing that the cabinet is grounded again.
Did you reseat any of the connectors on the Control Board or the 14 pin upper/lower harness connector in the console?
The Chassis ground connection that billsulli681 repaired is as he described next to the Line Condition filter far left hand side of the console (viewed from the rear) when you remove the console back panel.
Here is part of the schematic showing the green wire/chassis ground connection;
The Chassis Ground connection billsulli681 repaired;
Cabinet Ground and neutral are tied together in your load center as you may be aware and are at the same potential…. 0 A.C. Volts potential. As you are aware that cabinet ground would help protect you if the AC L1 120VAC line came in contact with the machine chassis. Good thing that the cabinet is grounded again.
Did you reseat any of the connectors on the Control Board or the 14 pin upper/lower harness connector in the console?
The Chassis ground connection that billsulli681 repaired is as he described next to the Line Condition filter far left hand side of the console (viewed from the rear) when you remove the console back panel.
Here is part of the schematic showing the green wire/chassis ground connection;
The Chassis Ground connection billsulli681 repaired;
OK schreiner1 excellent feedback and utstanding use of the Service Manual you’re a true DIY’er. I’ll hang in there as long as you can tolerate the down time. As I mentioned I find it hard to believe loss of chassis ground would cause the issues as described in both post.
This is good info “”i just performed the motor test and it doesn't seem right....after unpluggin the jp4 harness....the motor spins but its not moving the belt...””
Unplug the machine and see if you can spin the Clutch Pulley by hand in both the CW and CCW direction. The CW direction is wash/agitate direction. In the wash/agitate part of the selected Wash Cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Controller to power the Motor in the CW direction the wash/agitate direction. The Motor CW direction will drive the Clutch pulley to rotate CW which will drive the tranny driving the tumblers to rotate.
When you rotate the Clutch Pulley in the CCW direction the Spin Cycle direction the Wash Basket will rotate CCW once the Large Wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley comes under tension. Have your wife watch for the wash basket rotation in the CCW direction as you rotate the Clutch Pulley several times. It takes several CCW Clutch Pulley rotations to compress the Large Wrap spring before the Spinner Shaft Coupler starts to drive the Spinner Assembly to rotate the Wash Basket CCW. I would also rotate the Wash Basket thru the lid by hand in the CCW direction it should take very light resistance to rotate the Wash Basket CCW. I’m trying to get a feel for drive system resistance. The Wash Basket should not rotate CW.
I’m giving you all this info for basic insight into the machines Wash Cycle action for the Wash/Agitate and Spin Cycle functions of the Wash Cycle. So back to your troubleshooting action steps.
“”i just performed the motor test and it doesn't seem right....after unpluggin the jp4 harness....the motor spins but its not moving the belt...”” This sounds like we have an issue with Clutch Pulley binding if the drive belt tension is not excessively loose. I need to know the results of rotating the Clutch Pulley by hand.
I assume if you start a Spin Only Cycle you would have the same issue. The Control Board would signal the Motor Controller to power the Motor CCW. With the front panel off do you see the same action? That is the Motor rotating CCW and the drive belt slipping around the Motor Pulley? Let me know the results and good for you on rolling up your sleeves.
I hope we can make some headway and come up with a cost effective fix before you decide to move on.
See this post under my old Forum name dh1200s. It will give you some additional insight into Clutch Pulley issues associated with dC/uC error codes.
You can turn on the drain pump in Service Mode to pump out the excess wash tub water.…..Rich
Hey schreiner1,
“”i just tried turning the clutch pulley ccw and it turns a couple of times and stops and won't go any further...even tried turning the basket by hand and it won't move....do you think it might be something w/ the clutch...thanks again for your help””
I feel you Outer Tub bearings are seized.
The wash basket should spin CCW with your pinky finger (very littler resistance). In Spin Cycle the Clutch Pulley is driving CCW (spin direction). The Tranny and Wash basket bolt to the Spinner Assembly which ride in the 6207DU outer tub bearings you can use 6207-2 RS replacement bearings look for best price with free shipping. The only glitch with the FAV6800A and FAV98090A is that I believe the Series 12 and above use a redesigned Outer Tub. See what this forum member found with the integrated One-Way Roller clutches in the Lower Outer Tub Bearing. The series 10 and 11 use an upper bearing ring One-Way Roller clutch bearing as well as the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way Roller clutch bearing. What is your Series number it’s the 1st two digits of machines S/N?
He found no source for the replacement lower Outer Tub combination bearing described in his post.
Here is his post; http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fa...
Here is another link I have commented on for Outer Tub Bearing replacement. Both this forum member are working on a series 10 FAV6800A mine is a spare I’m working just for the hands on experience.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t4028403-ju...
If the Outer tub bearings are seized or dragging then you have a tub seal leak. The links call out what is necessary for Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring replacement. This is a big job but if you can break loose the 6 Spinner mounting bolts without snapping one like I did you can save the machine. I'm going forward with Outer Tub bearing replacement, snapping off one the Spinner mounting bolts has slowed me down a bit but this a spare machine so no impact to the laundry pile.
I have to break this comment up I push the message limits of this board.
If the Outer tub bearings are seized or dragging then you have a tub seal leak. The links call out what is necessary for Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring replacement. This is a big job but if you can break loose the 6 Spinner mounting bolts without snapping one like I did you can save the machine. I'm going forward with Outer Tub bearing replacement, snapping off one the Spinner mounting bolts has slowed me down a bit but this a spare machine so no impact to the laundry pile.
I have to break this comment up I push the message limits of this board.
Comment to schreiner1 continued;
I'm bothered by the machine not producing/failing with an error code. You say the belt is slipping in the Spin direction only is that correct? The seized Outer bearings are the issue. The Control Board monitors tach input from the motor and if the bearing resistance caused the motor to not turn I suspect you would take an LR error code “Locked Rotor” but your belt is slipping. Other owners have reported belt screech and rubber burning. I guess your drive belt is worn/loose to prevent that.
Bottom line it looks like from here you need to replace the Outer Tub Bearings and the associated Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring. There is a special tool needed to remove and re-install the 1.75” spinner nut. I used a air impact tool and a cheap 1.75” socket to remove the Spinner Nut. Take a look at the post and see if replacing the Outer Tub Bearing replacement is repair action you want to try.
Did your Clutch Pulley have the upper bearing ring installed? See this post for my maintenance/replacement Clutch pulley work. Clutch Fix
The 6207-2RS bearings I picked up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...
“”you have no idea how much i appreciate you helping me out like this””..…..Thank you for that just an owner trying to help other owners with machine issues.
Good luck and I will try to help you with my limited hands on…..Rich
Did your Clutch Pulley have the upper bearing ring installed? See this post for my maintenance/replacement Clutch pulley work. Clutch Fix
The 6207-2RS bearings I picked up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390145686042&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
“”you have no idea how much i appreciate you helping me out like this””..…..Thank you for that just an owner trying to help other owners with machine issues.
Good luck and I will try to help you with my limited hands on…..Rich
""Take a look at the post and see if replacing the Outer Tub Bearing replacement is repair action you want to try.
"" Sorry see the links in my comment.
""you're the man rich...mine is a series 10....i'm definitely going to fix this...no matter how long it takes...but hopefully you've found the problem...makes sense...i'm going to dive into it tonight....i'll let you know what i find...thanks again... ""
Na…. not the man I have been wrong to many times in life. I go by the Clint Eastwood philosophy "Man's got to know his limitations. ;)" like you becoming self educated on the machine and saving a buck.
Good for you to try and save you 1K$ machine. I'm going to try to insert my 6207-2RS bearings on Monday. Need to make a trip the local Amish machine shop for some large washers to overlay the bearings if I go the tap in route. Going to see what the cost would be to have them turn me down a 35MM shaft threaded both ends for bearing insertion tool. As I mentioned in my post’s watch ya don’t snap off a Spinner Bolt's mine were really corroded in even after soaking in Liquid Wrench.
Oops! Dang! Now I have some extra work.
I’m also replacing bearings in the Spinner Assembly just for the experience see the end of my Clutch Fix. post.
I would clean up the One-Way Roller Clutches bearing in the Clutch Pulley and the Upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring. Good luck to you…….Rich
Reply to billsulli681 “”Mar 20, 2010 - Oh no! Whoever posted they didn't those green wires would fix my problem was right. The problem I initially posted is back. Exactly like before. I need help
“”
I’ll try to help but you need help me. Can you please give me some feedback to my original questions at the beginning of my response?
""Is the machine in Spin Cycle when this is happening? What part of the washer selected cycle does the Cycle Status LED say the machine cycle is in.
If it’s in the Spin Cycle I think you have a clutch issue. Do you take any error codes to the LED console display such as dC or uC?
If you stop the machine in that cycle and do a Spin Only cycle will it complete?
Do you want to DIY the fix? Let me know and I will try to help…..Rich
""
Forget about the DIY question you qualify in spirit that you want to try to save your $1K machine.
Like any solid troubleshooter working with a 3000 mile long screwdriver I need your solid feedback if we are going work toward fault isolation/resolution of your issue. When I reach my knowledge limit I will let you know and I hope repair folks will chime in with support of your issue.
As an owner of the FAV6800A this is a hobby for me… but my rating speaks to my efforts and resolutions. My old Nick name was dh1200s. I have many post related to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines under that nick name.
Please don’t vote for my suggestions unless I give you a fix. I will never give you a WAG for a solution like check the drain or it’s a software issue. You’re in the No WAG Zone when you work with me…. lower ratings lower my creditability and that’s all I get from FIXYA no $.
Follow this post as to the troubleshooting that schreiner1 did. See if thru the lid you can rotate the wash basket CCW. If the Outer Tub bearings are binding or seized we may detect that with this quick test.
The Wash basket should rotate CCW the Spin direction with very slight resistance (Wash Basket/Inner Tub are rotating in the Outer Tub bearings). See if you can rotate the wash basket with you Pinky Finger CCW/slight resistance. The wash basket should not rotate CW at all….. locked solid when you try to rotate CW unless the Clutch One-Way roller clutches/bearing are seized up and the Outer Tub bearings are OK.
From schreiner1’s feedback it looks like his machines Outer Tub bearings are dragging/seized. Very high rotational resistance of the Wash Basket in the CCW/Spin direction. And his feedback for the Motor Control Board Output Test on page 15 of the Service Manual ”” i just performed the motor test and it doesn't seem right....after unpluggin the jp4 harness....the motor spins but its not moving the belt...is this suppose to happen....””
Definitely Outer Tub Bearing are binding/seized. His comment “”Mar 03, 2010 - i removed the clutch and inspected it and it seems to be ok...without clutch in..i tried to turn the basket ccw and is still really tough to turn “”
That indicates to me severe binding with the Outer Tub bearings and I gave him some links to review for Outer Tub bearing replacement.
I just got a message limit speeding ticket I need to break this post up on this BS board. See my Clutch Fix link in the posting for front panel removal or see the Service Manual.
Like any solid troubleshooter working with a 3000 mile long screwdriver I need your solid feedback if we are going work toward fault isolation/resolution of your issue. When I reach my knowledge limit I will let you know and I hope repair folks will chime in with support of your issue.
As an owner of the FAV6800A this is a hobby for me… but my rating speaks to my efforts and resolutions. My old Nick name was dh1200s. I have many post related to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines under that nick name.
Please don’t vote for my suggestions unless I give you a fix. I will never give you a WAG for a solution like check the drain or it’s a software issue. You’re in the No WAG Zone when you work with me…. lower ratings lower my creditability and that’s all I get from FIXYA no $.
Follow this post as to the troubleshooting that schreiner1 did. See if thru the lid you can rotate the wash basket CCW. If the Outer Tub bearings are binding or seized we may detect that with this quick test.
The Wash basket should rotate CCW the Spin direction with very slight resistance (Wash Basket/Inner Tub are rotating in the Outer Tub bearings). See if you can rotate the wash basket with you Pinky Finger CCW/slight resistance. The wash basket should not rotate CW at all….. locked solid when you try to rotate CW unless the Clutch One-Way roller clutches/bearing are seized up and the Outer Tub bearings are OK.
From schreiner1’s feedback it looks like his machines Outer Tub bearings are dragging/seized. Very high rotational resistance of the Wash Basket in the CCW/Spin direction. And his feedback for the Motor Control Board Output Test on page 15 of the Service Manual ”” i just performed the motor test and it doesn't seem right....after unpluggin the jp4 harness....the motor spins but its not moving the belt...is this suppose to happen....””
Definitely Outer Tub Bearing are binding/seized. His comment “”Mar 03, 2010 - i removed the clutch and inspected it and it seems to be ok...without clutch in..i tried to turn the basket ccw and is still really tough to turn “”
That indicates to me severe binding with the Outer Tub bearings and I gave him some links to review for Outer Tub bearing replacement.
I just got a message limit speeding ticket I need to break this post up on this BS board. See my Clutch Fix link in the posting for front panel removal or see the Service Manual.
Continued reply to billsulli681;
There could be other issues related to the Motor Controller, Control Board, TDS etc. This is the 1st troubleshooting step going down the Yellow Brick Road of fault isolation/trouble resolution….. the Wizard is out there somewhere.
My Clutch Fix. to help with front panel removal.....Rich
One last item for billsulli681;
What is the Series of your machine which is the first two digits of the machines serial number. Service Manual will show you the location on page 8. It will be 10 through 17. This board is not geared up to ask for proper info which is Model # and Serial #.
To billsulli681
“”Mar 23, 2010
- The first two digits of the serial number are 10. The machine is NOT in spin cycle when this occurs, and there is no error code on the LED display. Thanks for any advice””
Sorry to hear about your issue. I’ll try to help you as best I can. We need to get a start point for fault isolation. With no error code to help us out we have to troubleshoot just like schreiner1 did with his issue the failure scenario is similar.
Did you try this “”Follow this post as to the troubleshooting that schreiner1 did. See if thru the lid you can rotate the wash basket CCW. If the Outer Tub bearings are binding or seized we may detect that with this quick test.”” With on finger the wash basket should rotate CCW with slight resistance…..What were the results?
Did you try a Spin Only cycle I suggested way back at the front of this post when you shut the machine down with the wet wash load? It’s important to know the results to fault isolate. If you did….did the machine complete a Spin Only cycle?
I’m trying to rule out excessive Outer Tub bearing resistance (bearing failure) that I believe is schreiner1 issue with troubleshooting to date.
I would pull the front cover off and follow the steps I had schreiner1 perform and let me know the results. If you have questions post back. You can also perform the Quick Spin Test
on page 14 of the Service Manual before you pull of the front cover.
Quick Spin Test
While in Service Mode, press the Hand Wash
key to start a Quick Spin Test.
Quick Spin test steps are as follows:
1) Lock the lid.
2) Spin to index speed 90 rpm and hold for 60
seconds. Pump drains machine.
3) Spin to index speed 150 rpm and hold for 6
seconds.
4) Spin to index speed 350 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
5) Spin to index speed 550 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
6) Spin to index speed 700 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
7) Spin to index speed 850 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
Pump out.
8) Coast down to 0 rpm chimes 3 times.
You should get a PA code for pass. If it dosen’t pass what was the fastest RPM the Wash Basket reached?
Keep in mind this machine uses a reversing motor. In Wash/Agitate cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Controller to power the motor in the CW direction driving the Clutch Pulley CW. In the Spin part of the Wash Cycle or a Spin Only cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Controller to power the motor in the CCW direction driving the Clutch Pulley CCW rotating the Wash Basket CCW the spin direction.
Rich
Did you try this “”Follow this post as to the troubleshooting that schreiner1 did. See if thru the lid you can rotate the wash basket CCW. If the Outer Tub bearings are binding or seized we may detect that with this quick test.”” With on finger the wash basket should rotate CCW with slight resistance…..What were the results?
Did you try a Spin Only cycle I suggested way back at the front of this post when you shut the machine down with the wet wash load? It’s important to know the results to fault isolate. If you did….did the machine complete a Spin Only cycle?
I’m trying to rule out excessive Outer Tub bearing resistance (bearing failure) that I believe is schreiner1 issue with troubleshooting to date.
I would pull the front cover off and follow the steps I had schreiner1 perform and let me know the results. If you have questions post back. You can also perform the Quick Spin Test
on page 14 of the Service Manual before you pull of the front cover.
Quick Spin Test
While in Service Mode, press the Hand Wash
key to start a Quick Spin Test.
Quick Spin test steps are as follows:
1) Lock the lid.
2) Spin to index speed 90 rpm and hold for 60
seconds. Pump drains machine.
3) Spin to index speed 150 rpm and hold for 6
seconds.
4) Spin to index speed 350 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
5) Spin to index speed 550 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
6) Spin to index speed 700 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
7) Spin to index speed 850 rpm and hold for 6 seconds.
Pump out.
8) Coast down to 0 rpm chimes 3 times.
You should get a PA code for pass. If it dosen’t pass what was the fastest RPM the Wash Basket reached?
Keep in mind this machine uses a reversing motor. In Wash/Agitate cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Controller to power the motor in the CW direction driving the Clutch Pulley CW. In the Spin part of the Wash Cycle or a Spin Only cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Controller to power the motor in the CCW direction driving the Clutch Pulley CCW rotating the Wash Basket CCW the spin direction.
Rich
Comment to billsulli681
""I could not get the tub to rotate by pushing it through the lid like you suggested to Schreiner1. I tried the quick spin test and running a spin only cycle with the same results which were... ""
billsulli681 if you can't rotate the Wash Basket CCW (Spin dirtection) thru the lid with one finger then I feel your issue is as schreiner1. The Outer Tub Bearings seized from a Tub Seal water leak.
You can remove the Front Cover and check to see if you can rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW but if the Outer Bearings are seized you will find the Clutch Pulley Will rotate until the Large Wrap Spring in the Clutch Pulley comes under tesnsion then tht will stop further rotation because the Spinner Assembly will not rotate in the Outer Tub bearings.
So far that is my vote for the fail point in your troubleshooting. Those bearings can be pounded out and I feel carefully pressed/driven in. Other DIY folks have done it. I'm in the process I broke a spinner bolt during inner tub disassembly and that has slowed me down a bit but that FAV6800A is a ebay win I'm rebuilding not my primary FAV6800A.
Good luck and let me know what I can do to help,,,,Rich
billsulli681
Yes as you rotate the Clutch pulley CCW the spin direction if the bearings are seized the clutch pulley will lock up once the Large Wrap spring comes under tension 4/5 turns or so. I assume you can rotate the clutch pulley CW agitate direction? Outer tub bearings are for spin cycle. The Spinner Assembly rotates in those Outer Tub bearings which has the tranny and wash basket mounted to the Spinner Assembly
It's a job but there are several folks recently that have punched out the original 6207 DU bearings and are working on pounding in (gently and with care) 6207-2RS bearings. Can you tolerate the down time? Cost for Outer Tub bearings, tub seal and tranny O-ring in the ball park of $45. This a job but several forum members have done it. Read the post and see what you think about the special tool you will need I just picked up the Spinner Locking nut and spanner wrench to torque down the Spinner Assembly once I get my new Outer Tub bearings seated. I used my ½” air impact tool and a cheap 1.75’ socket to remove the Spinner Nut. I or other will try to help if you go forward.
Good Luck….Rich
Update.......
So I taped/pounded in the first bearing the lower outer tub bearing. I over lay a large washer on the bearing and used a wood block go around the bearing protecting the inner and outer races of the bearing. The inner most bearing in the tub will be a challenge. Watch the motor mounts and cushion the tub on old carpet or similar when pounding in and take your time to seat the bearing evenly as you tap/pound in. I’m going have to rip down something like a 3’ 2*4 and get the wife involved for the nest bearing insertion.
Old bearing 6207 DU and lagre washer to over lay new bearing when inserting. Trying to protect inner/outer bearing races.
New 6207-2RS taped/pounded in.
The inner most bearing in the tub will be a challenge. Watch the motor mounts and cushion the tub on old carpet or similar when pounding in and take your time to seat the bearing evenly as you tap/pound in. I’m going have to rip down something like a 3’ 2*4 and get the wife involved for the nest bearing insertion.
billsulli681
""I tried rotating the pulley with the front cover off and it went a little way then stopped."" I feel you Outer Tub bearings are seized.
Going back to this comment ""I could not get the tub to rotate by pushing it through the lid like you suggested to Schreiner1."" If you could not rotate the wash basket CCW before you pulled off the Clutch Pulley then I feel your Outer Tub Bearings are seized from the water leak I feel brought on by a Tub Seal failure.
The rusted in Spinner Shaft Coupler my name for it leads me to believe the bulk of the water came down the outside of the Spinner Shaft which rotates/rides in the Tub Seal and Outer Tub bearings.
With the Clutch Pulley removed will the Wash Basket rotate CCW with only slight resistance using one finger (Pinky) to rotate. With the Clutch Pulley removed the Wash Basket should now rotate CW also. Can you spin the wash basket up by hand at all with the clutch pulley CCW? Do you hear any bearing noise if you can spin the wash basket by hand?
If the Outer Tub bearings are not seized or have excessive resistance you could install your new Clutch Pulley but I feel you will end up back where you are after a number of wash cycles.
With the Clutch Pulley removed let meknow how much resistance there is to spin the Wash Basket by hand. Spin the basket up by hand as fast as you can and the wash basket should coast down slowly after 4+ rotations.
I'm trying to get a feel for rotational resistance of the Wash basket/Spinner Assembly in those Outer Tub bearings....Rich
""With the clutch pulley removed, the basket spins easily with no resistance or noise. I spun it fast, and it went over 6 rotations without stopping. Let me know what you think.""
Bill that is good news. With your machines Spinner Shaft Coupler to be as rusted up and froze into the Clutch PulleyI feel you have as slight tub seal leak. You could throw the new clutch in and check for any water being slung out on the clutch pulley with several wash loads.
To pull the tranny and inspect the O-ring can be done fairly easy but I do not think that is the issue. As you know to get to the Tub Seal means Spinner Assembly removal which is a bit more of a job and the special tool is needed to lock down that 1.75” spinner nut. You can impact off but I would use the tool for reassembly.
As an owner with limited hands on I would throw the new Clutch Pulley on and monitor for water on the clutch pulley. If you detect wash water coming down on the pulley then its tear down time to Tub Seal level/replacement before you have Outer Tub bearing issues. From your description of free wheeling of inner tub rotation it sounds like those Outer Tub bearings have not been compromised yet…… Rich
×
I have the same exact problem....no error codes....it does it when its on the wash cycle and on spin cycle...spins for 5 secs. and stops and repeats
Thank you for your help....i'm not getting any codes....i tried to cycle thru the part where my diag codes and there is none....it stops w/ 23 mins left in the quick wash cycle...never gets to rinse...and it does the samething when i try to run just a spin cycle only....with clothes and without...doesn't make any loud noises....it just spins for 5 sec and stops...when it stops i can see the belt resets itself and repeats
i checked my chassis ground...and nothing...everything seems to be connected...i keep checking to see if it gives me any codes..and nothing...i just performed the motor test and it doesn't seem right....after unpluggin the jp4 harness....the motor spins but its not moving the belt...is this suppose to happen....my wife keeps tellin me to call somebody...but i can't let this thing beat me
you have no idea how much i appreciate you helping me out like this....i just tried turning the clutch pulley ccw and it turns a couple of times and stops and won't go any further...even tried turning the basket by hand and it won't move....do you think it might be something w/ the clutch...thanks again for your help
i removed the clutch and inspected it and it seems to be ok...without clutch in..i tried to turn the basket ccw and is still really tough to turn
you're the man rich...mine is a series 10....i'm definitely going to fix this...no matter how long it takes...but hopefully you've found the problem...makes sense...i'm going to dive into it tonight....i'll let you know what i find...thanks again...
×
Google this; Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW
This is a DIY Appliance repair forum and you can get the Service Manual and repair support at that site..
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues that I have helped owners with. I'm an owner of a FAV6800AWW top load machine.
In that Sticky I discuss what is the cause of DC or UC unbalance errors and the fix.
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues that I have helped owners with. I'm an owner of a FAV6800AWW top load machine.
Good luck.
If you machine is a FAV6800A or FAV9800A don't worry about the last two letters of the model number.
Google this; Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW
This is a DIY Appliance repair forum and you can get the Service Manual and repair support at that site..
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It's not the best SM but will get you started. I also have repair post in that sticky to help with the most common issues that I have helped owners with. I'm an owner of a FAV6800AWW top load machine.
If you need help post in the Maytag/Magic Chef/Admiral/Jenn-Air forum with your issue and we will try to help.
Google this Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW
In the Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW 5 post down you will find a link to the Service Manual. You absolutely need the Service Manual to DIY issues with the machine. It
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I fixed it! I got the top cover open(thanks for posting that service manual) and saw two green wires towards the back corner on the right side that were bare on the ends and connected to nothing. I then found a wire lug screwed to the frame without any wires in it. Sooo... Does this make me a guru?
Oh no! Whoever posted they didn't those green wires would fix my problem was right. The problem I initially posted is back. Exactly like before. I need help
The first two digits of the serial number are 10. The machine is NOT in spin cycle when this occurs, and there is no error code on the LED display. Thanks for any advice
Thanks so much for the response! I'll try all of your suggestions but to let you know what I did right away,I thought I'd post this.
I could not get the tub to rotate by pushing it through the lid like you suggested to Schreiner1. I tried the quick spin test and running a spin only cycle with the same results which were... After about a 30 second delay, the tub would spin to "48" on the led display, but only hold that for 3 seconds. The display would go to zero, but then it seemed to reverse to about "67", but for less than a second, and back to zero. Then another 30 second delay and repeat with the same numbers on the display. I'll continue to work on it with the suggestions you gave to schreiner1, but I just wanted to bring you up to speed with my situation. I'll greatly appreciate any advice you have to offer.
Rich, I think you're right on with your diagnosis. I tried rotating the pulley with the front cover off and it went a little way then stopped.Am I correct in assuming I now have to go through pages 37 to 46 in the service manual disassembly procedures to get to these bearings?
Well, I pulled the clutch pulley assembly without taking the spinner baskets off, the transmission out etc., by going under. When I opened up the clutch I found that sleeve rusted solid to the (upper,lower? bearing? the one that doesn't go just one way, that one came out.) I called maytag, they agreed to sell me one at half-price, $54 which was less then appliance zone. I guess my question is, do you think that rusting was caused by a leaking seal? Do you think it's the tranny o-ring or the tub seal or maybe both?
With the clutch pulley removed, the basket spins easily with no resistance or noise. I spun it fast, and it went over 6 rotations without stopping. Let me know what you think. Thanks Rich. Bill
Pulley came in the mail today. I'm on my second load of laundry. I can't tell you how grateful I am for the help.
I'm so glad this site is here and the experts are offering help to novices like me. I couldn't have done it without you!
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