Hi, Where Could i find a wiring diagram for a circuit that consists of 2way switching and intermidaite switching via a joint/junction box?

fuse diagram for Ford escape

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/2006-ford-escape-fuse-diagrams/

Is the air bag light lit on the instrument cluster ? The horn relay isn't under the hood in the engine compartment , it's in the SJB - smart junction box located inside the passager compartment . Under the dash panel left side . You can take the relay back to autozone because it's not the right one ! The relay is inside the smart junction box ,soldered to the printed circuit board !
Horn Horn
The vehicle is equipped with dual horns. The horns are mounted in the LF frame rail corner behind the front bumper.
The horn system consists of the following components:

• steering wheel horn switches
• clockspring
• horns
• smart junction box (SJB)

Horn Switch, Steering Wheel Mounted
The horn switches are incorporated within the driver side air bag module in the steering wheel. The switches are grounded and control the horns through the clockspring. For removal and installation of the driver side air bag module, refer to Section 501-20B .
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Horn
• Horn switch

• Battery junction box (BJB) fuse 1 (60A)
• Smart junction box (SJB) fuse 38 (15A).
• Circuitry
• Speed control actuator
• Clockspring
• SJB

Smart Junction Box (SJB) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index
DTC Description Source Action B1217 Horn relay coil circuit failure Smart junction box (SJB) If the horn is inoperative, Go To Pinpoint Test A . If horns sound continuously, Go To Pinpoint Test B . B1218 Horn relay coil circuit short to battery Smart junction box (SJB) Go To Pinpoint Test A .
Any codes ?
Symptom Chart NOTE: Refer to Wiring Diagrams for connector numbers stated in the pinpoint test. Condition Possible Sources Action

• The horn is inoperative

• Battery junction box (BJB) fuse 1 (60A).
• Smart junction box (SJB) fuse 38 (15A).
• Circuitry.
• SJB.
• Horn switch.
• Horn.
• Speed control actuator.

• Go To Pinpoint Test A .

Your best bet , take it to a qualified ford service center .

11-1-12
Thanks for link to manual.
Solution might take more response for full clarity, and you seem a good electrician.
I have numbered two questions that may be unimportant.
Add a comment, response after 5 pm CST

Here is illustration showing Black Hot and White Neutral in attic junction box, as you described. With black-red-blue wires connected as shown in Broan manual. And each device connected to White neutral wire in junction box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Triple-fan-light-night-light.jpg

You have access to attic, and can drop another cable down wall into switch box. This will give necessary total 4 wires between switch and Broan
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

Key start point: Junction box in attic has the Black Hot wire and White neutral coming from circuit breaker box.
This cable powers the junction box.

There are 3 cables in junction box, each cable with black and white.
Cable from breaker box with Hot and Neutral. Cable going to light switch.
Another cable jumps power to next box in the circuit, and will be reconnected when finished, black-to-black white-to-white

Old light switch in wall was single pole.
1) How many cables are inside switch box? Just one cable from attic with black and white wire?
2) 3-way switch is the wrong switch, unless you mean 3-pole triple switch with 3 screw terminals on one side of device?

Here is another link that shows wiring choices if you decide to use 3 separate switches (or timers or occupancy sensor to turn on night light) instead of triple switch: Install triple box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#4-f

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

switch light bulb

black (hot)_________________/ /___________.O.___________________________neutral (white)
/ /


You have more than likely wired around the wires going to the switch. Above is a simple diagram of how to wire in a light circuit. If this doesn't solve the problem, ehow.com has a good sight to look on for more wiring diagrams that can help you

*Neutral is the white wires usually in the ceiling junction box. There may be several wired together.

I hope this helps you. Have a good day and be careful with that electricity!

One single cable runs from the circuit breaker to a junction box in that area of the house.
The cable has a black Hot wire, white Neutral wire, and bare ground wire.
Once the cable arrives at junction box, it can split up 2 or 3 directions.
Each successive box receives a cable that feeds back to the first junction box.

Chances are the junction box is on the ceiling. And it will be the ceiling box that is closest to main breaker box.
Junction box can also be a switch box. In that case it will be switch box closest to main box.

Find the junction box, as point of organization.
Open junction box and separate all black and white wires.
Turn power on and see if breaker sets.
That will tell you if problem is between main box and junction box.

Junction box wires are separated.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON and test each wire in junction box to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire.
Test Hot to each other wire in box, except bare ground, and tester lights up on Neutral
This identifies the cable that comes from breaker box.

Now, reconnect cable from breaker box to one of the other sets of black and white wires located in junction box.
Check if breaker resets.
If breaker resets, see what circuits are working, and you can eliminate them as suspect.

Remember each successive box in a circuit has 1 cable that connects back to main breaker box
Going 1 box at a time, and disconnecting black and white wires, will eventually lead to the suspect.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on circuit or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

You are installing switch plug combo with GFCI
Device has 4 screw terminals and 2 wires.
Look at markings on back of device to determine Line and Load screws.

If you are working inside junction box, there are 3 cables for example. Each cable has black and white wires. Cable1 comes from breaker box with Line wires, cable2 goes to light fixture, cable3 goes to next switch or receptacle box in the circuit.

Cable1 Line wires come from circuit breaker: Black wire connects to brass Line screw, White to silver Line screw.
Cable2 wires to light fixture connect to wires sticking out of device and are controlled by light switch.
Cable3 wires connect to Load screws. Black wire connects to brass Load screw, White to silver Load screw. This will put GFCI protection on circuit from that point forward. If you do not want that protection, then connect cable3 on same screws as cable1.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail while you work on circuit or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Your statement is a bit off the wall

Do you have two single pole switches or two double pole switches

You would normally provide a Live, Neutral and Earth to each fan via a switched , double pole, fused spur box .(You run a cable from the spur to a junction box) , you then run a LNE to each of the fans (using plastic trunking or conduit if the cables cannot be sunk into a wall).

Inside the junction box you remove the Live supply cable from the connector which should now be carrying three cables leaving the two cables running to the fans.

Put the Live wire into the spare connector inside the junction box

Get a twin and earth cable with the two wires marked up as Lives (Brown or Red in the UK, or whatever your wiring colour code dictates in your country) take those to a single pole switch which is convenient to you and wire them in

Back at the junction box put one of those wire into the connector where the two Supply wires for the fans are and tighten them up

Put the second wire from the On/Off switch to the Spare connector in the junction box which is holding the Live Supply

You then have a fused supply with a switch to break the circuit

If you do not need a switch then ignore the second part and just rely on using the switched fused spur to control them.

You can use a single pole switch but it is safer to stick with the double pole version

The breaker will be out of the loop as that will provide the power and you should not be fitting wires to it

If the power originates at the location of the light (or other item being switched) you need a 3-core cable from there to to each switch location.
If the power originates at one of the switch locations you need a 2-core cable from there to the fixture and a 3-core cable to the other switch location. (If the cable to the second switch location is routed through the junction box at the fixture then you only need 4 cores from the first switch to the junction box--three switch wires and the neutral wire for the fixture.)
In all cases described above the ground (earth) wire is separate and not included in the count.

check for inline fuses. wire that will melt if theres to many amps running through it usually under the hood. hope this helps