S by s has frost build up Model # GSH25JSRF-SS

As per Ray,...most likely. I would measure the width of the space that the new fridge will be going into though before buying just in case.

HI you have a bad defrost heater, located in the freezer behind the rear panel at the bottom, the part cost around $50-70.00.



Sean

Hi if you have frost in the back of the freezer, you have a bad defrost thermistor this is located behind the back panel in the back of the freezer, you will see the coils, and at the top of the coils you may have to defrost it to find it, there is a little white sensor, this is the defrost thermistor, part runs about $25. If you dont have frost let me know if you have temp problems in the fridge also and how old the unit is.


Sean

i have the exact same question. where is the answer?

First you must fully defrost your freezer. Frost simply attracts more frost. A build up of frost large enough to prevent the door closing properly will grow very rapidly indeed and waste a lot of electricity; it will also overload the compressor and can cause it to fail prematurely.

If the seal is damaged then it will allow moist air in and cause frost. If the seal has simply become unseated, then refitting it will prevent a recurrence.

Unless you have a frost-free model, then all freezers eventually need defrosting. You can slow the process by never opening the freezer door unnecessarily and also by never leaving it open any longer than necessary. Frost free models rely on air circulation via a fan to prevent frost build up. If the fan fails, or if the freezer is overloaded and so preventing air circulation then it will still frost up.

Please take a brief moment to rate my answer.

On this particular model the fan and all operations are controlled by the main board on the back of your Refrigerator. This is part number wr55x10942. Less than $200.00 and not hard to change out.

Is it still cooling? I had an issue where there was a clicking noise from the back panel and the fridge did not cool. Pulling off the panel the noise seemed to from a box on the circuit board. Turns out there was a problem with the controler board and after some research I found that the board was covered under a recall. GE ended up sending a guy out to replace the board at no charge. Pretty cool being that if was after the warranty had expired; but I guess it makes sence since there was a recall. Good luck.

At the bottom of the freezer door ( remove the kick plate ) , there will be a water line . Follow this line , about 6 " to a connector . Push in on the white ring and pull out the line , at the same time . Activate the water dispensor pad and see if water flows from the line under the refrig . If it does , then the line in the door is frozen . Either raise the freezer temp for several days , so the line in the door will thaw , or , I have heard using an air tank will blow the ice out of the line in the door . If no water comes from the line under the refrig , while activating the pad , then replace the water valve , behind the refrig , the piece the wall water line connects to on the refrig .

Check condensation drain line for a blockage.

Replace the defrost clock.