I would start with relay and overload that plugs into side of compressor. Very common problem on Whirlpool fridges. Simple to fix though.
SOURCE: please help
Are you installing a ice maker kit? If the ice maker is already installed all you have to do is connect it to the potable water supply in the back of the refrigerator and lower the bail arm to put it into operation.
SOURCE: fridgedaire side by side fan working, compressor hot, refridgerator and freezer not cooling
.thanks for your question i would try a hard, to start re lay on it after its cooled down. it might just do the trick. the appliance doc
SOURCE: Where is the defrost timer for Kenmore 106 48262893
It might be the defroster itslef mine just went bad.
SOURCE: Kenmore model 57029 side-by-side refrigerator not working
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, ie defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
SOURCE: Model #596.58642890 Side by side refrigerator is
Hello. Thanks for choosing fixya! Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up
on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on
the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the
freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately
four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the
self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool.
Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the
circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount
of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils,
cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine
if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable
food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several
towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow).
This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice
build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal
setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with
one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
1. The defrost timer
2. The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
3. The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem
with the refrigerant level or the compressor.
Hope this helps, Regards, Joe
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P.S. my fridge is an older model. It is not the one in the picture, it is about17 years old.
I fixed it,,, I replaced the adaptive defrost control board and the fridge started working good as new. My model number 106.9535511 is suppose to have a defrost timer instead of the adaptive defrost control which was odd,, but that is how it was built originally.
Hey Meredithfami, (or anyone) I have exactly the same model and cannot determine where this defrost control board is located. Withe the interior freezer panel removed I don't see it, nor do I find it via the lower rear panel access either. And direction greatly appreciated.
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