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It is many years since I have encountered a washer motor fitted with a start capacitor. Multi-speed induction type motors are complex and don't lend themselves well to being controlled by the typical electronic or computer controllers typically found in washing machines for the last few decades.
Most washers are fitted with a brush type motor that lends itself well to speed control and requires neither a start capacitor or separate start windings.
When a start capacitor fails (open circuit) the motor usually buzzes and will start manually with a sharp "flick" in either direction. If left buzzing for very long it will overheat and burn out. It the capacitor fails (short circuit) the start winding will quickly overheat and burn out.
The rear bearings are going out. The motor will overheat from the increased load and the motor control board will soon fail unless this is fixed. Here is a link to the parts you need.
You shouldn't let the washer run for more then 30 seconds without spraying. If you let the motor run without squeezing the trigger, the pump will overheat and damage the motor. You may also need to change the spark plug and clean/replace the air filter.
I beleive that your washer needs a hub and seal kit. Please check parts sites. I did some research for you and this part seems to be unavailable on many sites that sell Maytag parts. When the seal is defective, it make the spin cycle very difficult for the transmission and motor and cause overheating . On the wash cycle however, this seal is not in the loop and the wash cycle is performing without overheating the motor. I am afraid that you will need a technician to do this job if you ever find the part.
check to see if you have washer fluid and see if power going to washer pump motor.if yes replace washer motor.if no check the washer switch could be bad or you have a loose or broke wire to switch.
F11 is a code that referes to communication error between the central control unit and the motor control unit. Disconnect power. Check wire harness connections to motor and control board. Check drive belt, visually inspect to see if belt is broke. Check drive motor, visually confirm motor operation. It is possible that if the belt broke it may have slung around in the cabinet and damaged or loosened the wire harness connection at the motor. Try unplugging wire harness at motor and then plug it back in securely. Hope this info has helped. Thanks, Tim.
If it has a belt try loosening the belt and see if the transmission and pump will turn and are not stuck. If they are they will have to be replaced. Try the motor and see if it turns freely with the belt loose or off. If they all turn freely check motor.
Sounds like belt is broken. Open front cover and look at belt, if broke replace. If not broke try unplugging for 2 minutes, plug back in then open and close lid 7 times slowly, this should reset the electronic motor.
sounds like motor contacts in timer may not be closing properly motor is trying to start but with contacts not right it overheats and shuts off ..also may be motor start switch that is where the wires connect to motor also ckd motor connector closely to may sure there is no loose connection between it and motor connections
if washer resumes operation when left alone after 30-45 min suspect motor overheat ..also could be bad timer contacts or connection on motor end at plug
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