Bad bearing The bearing behind the motor is bad. I have the bearing out. My question is is their any other parts that could make the bearing go bad or is their another bearing behind the drum that the drum needs to be removed?

Just thought I would mention - most motor bearings are fairly standard ball bearings and obtaining replacements as motor spare parts can be a very expensive method. Obtaining replacements from a local bearing supplier or even online can represent a considerable saving.

There is more than one fan on your refrigerator I think you mean that the bearings and not the bushings are bad which could be true just have to figure out which fan it is.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bosch-4000-0601476139-table-saw-parts-c-128_167_168.html
I have found the most common issue is a bad field with the second being a bad rear armature bearing and last being a bad speed control.
Most of the time slow speed or even running backwards is a bad field (part #2 on the breakdown) #1619PA5590
Remove the cap on the end of the motor & the 2 carbon brushes.
Remove the 4 screws holding the motor to the frame and pull it straight off.
Check the bearing on the end of the armature to ensure it is not frozen or stiff. If it is also check the rubber boot that sits over the bearing and the motor housing itself to ensure it is not melted.

You did'nt discribe the noise, could be a few things based on noise. Thumping could be a bad drum support wheel, Squeeling could be Teflon bearing strips on lower lip of front drum end, or motor bearings, or tensioner pulley, or belt slipping cause by weak or broken tensioner spring, for starters. A good source for ALL appliance parts is WWW.PARTSCLINIC.COM must have model & serial number, located behind door upper left,or in back on a tag.

Clanking sound is bearing that has gone bad in a treadmill, unplug the treadmill remove the motor shroud. Use a long handled screwdriver and touch it to a non-moving portion of the front and rear rollers and motor and then put your ear up to the handle and the screwdriver will amplify the noise of the part so you can find out which part is making the noise. If it is a bearing, it will be obvious which part is the problem because the grinding or clacking noise of the bad bearing with be amplified by the screwdriver

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER, a no spin problem can have several causes. Most commonly, this is caused by either a lid switch malfunction or a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how you can diagnose the problem and repair it yourself:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3965207-whirlpool_top_loader_no_spin_problem

Read through the link provided and let me know if you have any questions. I have included parts resources and instructions on how to replace each part as well.

If you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: If the model number is correct the part number for a replacement lid switch is 8054980. The part number for the motor coupling is 285753A.

This sounds like it's your clutch that is worn out and rubbing metal to metal. It has pads similar to a centrifugal clutch in small motors like chain saws etc. Your model number is needed for more information.
It's usually stamped on a small tag in a visible location on your appliance.

Washer-Dryer- behind or on top of the control panel. Behind the door. On the lower front or side of the cabinet.

replace motor, the bearings are bad

I don't think they can be, but, also take a look at the fan bearing assembly too. You should be able to isolate if the noise is from the motor bearings or blower bearings.