SOURCE: Blue tint when shooting aperture priority
Hello, First of all let's explain what aperture priority does in terms of electronics and mechanical/optical changes in the way the camera takes photos. Unlike most point and shot digital cameras, your one has variable aperture range. Aperture is related to your camera lens. Their main function will be to collect light and direct it to the camera's sensor. The aperture of a lens is the diameter of the lens opening and is usually controlled by an iris.The larger the diameter of the aperture, the more light reaches the image sensor. Aperture is expressed as "F-stop", for example F2.8 or f/2.8. The smaller the F-stop number (or f/value) the larger the lens opening (aperture). This means that when you're using aperture priority or large aperture values (a smaller f/value) your image sensor (ccd or cmos) will tend to receive more light or slightly overexpose itself. Most simple digital cameras, the point and shot ones, have a fixed aperture, the lens are fixed and that's set to a so believed "optimum" range in order to produce best pictures when using automatic settings. SLR or semi SLR digital camera's woun't achieve best performances when using them on automatic settings, they aren't designed in the same way as the simple camera's. These camera's will tend to either overexpose, or have lighting/colour problems or achieve blurry images when using automatic settings. Any SLR or semi SLR camera user will be required to understand the way photography (electronic photography) works in order to achieve the best performances with it's camera. For your example, I guess the shots have a blue tint on them when you're using natural sun light in your photos, or in room pictures are illuminated by natural sun light. This is the first sign of overexpure, and the best way to reduce it and it's efects is to manually set the aperture range. Note that higher values will reduce the light that passes to the sensor, so you will want to experiment a little with those in order to achieve the best performance. When you take photos in light environments, bright sunny days or in rooms that contain many white surfaces or walls (these reflect the light pretty much and can overexpose the camera even if it doesn't look that bright when you look at them with your own eyes) you may want to use larger aperture value in order to have little light come to the sensor. Look for the highest values in aperture (in your menu) for example F8 or F16. If the pictures come out to dark or miss some details, you may want to use larger apertures (smaller numbers). Try these tests in order to check if your camera's problem can be solved this way. If not please reply back and we will look on the hardware - firmware side of the problem. Regarding aperture a quick recap :) A large aperture allows more light to reach the sensor. It's good when taking portret pictures and also achieves that nice blurry background surrounding your main subject in the picture. It's defined by smaller numbers (for example F1.8 or F1.2 or smaller). A small aperture allows little light to reach the sensor. It's good to take pictures in bright sun light. It's defined by larger numers (for example F16 or F22 or larger). Hope this helps, Bogdan.
SOURCE: Nikon D700 viewfinder dark
It sounds as if there is a problem with aperture blades not fully opening.
A quick test...
With a known good lens on the camera, set it to shutter priority mode. Point the camera at a plain wall or ceiling, half press the shutter button and note the aperture reading suggested by the camera. (Play around with the shutter speed settings until you get something around about f11.)
If possible, switch to another good lens and do the same. (You will need to point the camera at the same wall or ceiling!) You should find that without altering any settings, you will get the same, or very similar, aperture reading as before.
Now try the suspect lens. If there is a a fault with the aperture, the camera will almost certainly suggest that a significantly different aperture setting is required.
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: fEE error code on nikon d80
To solve this all you need to do is turn the lens' aperture ring (the one nearest the camera body) to the smallest number (probably 22 or 32).
SOURCE: D90 and Nikkor 17-55 problem. Lens won't come off
It's obviously in crooked. You will probably have to force it off but there is always the chance of damage.
SOURCE: Why won't my aperture go lower than 5.6?
You do have total control, within the constraints of the hardware. The 18-55mm lens has a maximum aperture range of f/3.5 to f/5.6. This means that at 55mm the maximum aperture is f/5.6. You can go the other way, all the way to f/38. At shorter focal lengths you can open up as far as f/3.5.
If you want a larger aperture, you'll have to get a faster lens. For example, Nikon has a 17-55mm f/2.8 lens which has a maximum aperture of f/2.8 at all focal lengths. It also costs $1300 new.
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