Not cooling, but fan inside running

Make sure the compressor is running it should be vibrating and get warm after a few minutes. If it is indeed running the smaller tube to the compressor should be getting warm if not it could very well be the compressor has stopped pumping. If the fans are not running they could be controlled from the control board and will come on when the sensors on the evaporator get to a certain temperature. I does sound like the compressor is the problem.

You have a bad relay or compressor

It is likely the condenser fan is not functioning, or the condenser is dirty. You may need to open the compressor access panel to check. If you can hear the compressor running, and the condenser feels warm, the fan should be running. If it isn't, it probably needs to be replaced. Another symptom is the area around the doors feels warm.

the ptc overload/relay on the compressors dead so the compressor cannot start,therefore the unit cannot cool,replace the ptc and it will run again

I am not sure what exactly you are asking but is your circulating fan working?
Sometimes they stick and need a shot of WD 40 and then work
it back and forth a little until it wants to take off again. Keep me informed
and PLEASE give a Thumbs Up for the effort. The Raz Shack

My advice to you is to transfer the meat to another place (preferably somewhere cold, for both the sake of the meat, and your freezer), let the compressor cool down, and then try starting the freezer. If it does start (it should), let it run until it has pulled the box down to 0 F. Then add the meat back in. Note at the beginning I told you to store the meat somewhere cold. It can be quite an overloading situation for the freezer, not only to have to pull itself down to such a cold temp, but when you add a bunch of "warm" meat to the appliance it is just to much of a load for it to handle. Hope this helps

The fans are controlled with a clixon that has a cut in at 5 degrees, and cut out at 20 degrees. If the unit is running and the fans are not comng on then I would have to say you are out of freon. But your condensor fan could be running and the compressor NOT be running which could be a problem with your compressor. Find out if your compressor is running by taking an amp draw. If compressor IS running then you are low on freon. If the compressor is running and your evaporator coil is cold and your fans AREN'T coming on then your clixon is bad.

No it's not normal. Make sure the condenser fan underneath near the compressor is running when the compressor run.

This will not cause a freon leak and it is possible that the door was left open, but to be certain that you don't have a defrost issue, follow the guide below to diagnose any problems. Also the warm walls are normal during compressor run times.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
If your freezer cools but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer, read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.

In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up. And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.

Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.

An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually" defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.
  
  
• The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

We had a Kenmore upright which worked fine but then suddenly was not keeping food frozen. Long story short, do not store anything on top of the freezer unit. It will insulate the coils that run across the top of the unit, and cause your compressor to work harder than it needs to, and eventually overheat and become ineffective. Says nothing about it in the user manual. We learned the hard way by losing food.