Question about Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer
I loaded the washer and started it. About ten minutes later, I noticed that the washer had stopped. I turned it off and on- nothing happened. I checked the outlet and it was still working. I pressed the button inside the lid with a screwdriver to make sure that wasn't causing the problem- nothing happened. My washer just stopped working and I can't find out why.
Maybe that lid switch. Really hard to say without a model # to see how it's designed.
Posted on Sep 21, 2017
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Maytag HAV2360AWW will not start
Check the back of the lid their is a litel plastic button to make sure the lid is closed see if not broken or stack
or see if drain pomp V belt is out of place or broken
this is the simple way
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Tl Spin settings
HELP I HAVE THE SAME IS ISSUE AS\r\n
My Spin cycles keep cycling through, it seems to wash fine but is always beeping and changing through the spin selection.
Is it the control board, ribon cable, membrane??
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
Failing at the 11 minute mark is the start of Spin Cycle and is key for clutch malfunction diagnosis see this post for a technicial description. The great folks at Maytag Eng. even hang out there dirty laundry in the Service Manual for the issue of a poor clutch design…. No pun intended….sure :). I could be in left field with my assumptions I’ve got to get my clutch to fail again due to those nasty sticky one-way roller clutches to be 100% dead on.
I agree with the other forum member solution, I own the machine and I feel this could be a clutch issue also. Check out the Tub Displacement Sensor with this check and make sure the transitions change the display from UC (unbalance closed) normal TDS position to UO to (unbalance open). Here is the test TDS Troubleshooting. You don’t need to disconnect the TDS from the Washer frame as I did just do the thru the lid check. Just make sure you pull and push down the tub as I described to make the tub excursions to test the Tub Displacement Sensor. I have not measured at CONN-P3 pin 11 to Control Board common but I believe a DVM would indicate apx +3VDC to +1.5VDC for the excursion limits to produce UC/UO to the LED display.
Here is the Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
If you are a DIY’er or have someone in the family with very basic mechanical skill sets take a look at this post and see if they can follow the clutch maint/repair/replacement process and save yourself some $money$. I would do this just to inspect the roller clutches in the clutch pulley for signs of a tub seal leak (slight to heavy rust). It’s a tight work area but I have hand very solid feedback from many forum members on this board and FIXITNOW.com for this step by step process.
The repair person did nothing wrong if he did not reseat the clutch properly on installation it would have spun off. I would drop the clutch out of the machine and inspect the roller clutches in the clutch hub and if your machine has the upper one-way roller clutch ring . How long has it been since your last clutch repair? I would not spend more than $60 a clutch pulley replacement part. This clutch pulley will work for all series FAV6800AW and FAV9800AW machines. Appliancezone.com keeps changing the link but here is the p/n punch it in their search box…. 25001169 …..
A repair tech that knows what he is doing shouldn’t spend more than 30 minutes in the house to pull the front cover off the machine remove the old clutch and install the new one. Some of the charges I see folks paying for a clutch replacement are out in left field. I hope you or a family member/friend can take this on.
Post back if you have questions or need help. Good Luck Rich
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore washer
Sounds to me like the lid switch is bad. The timers hardly ever go out.
Here is a link to the part.
Posted on Nov 21, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 17, 2014 | LG Tromm Front Load Washer And Dryer Set
Jun 24, 2017 | LG WT4870CW 4.5 Cu. Ft. Top Load White...
Hi shaen1257 - This particular issue can be caused by quite a few reasons. Washer could be experiencing a communication error from the main control board, faulty door lock assembly, faulty pump or the timer itself is not operating correctly. Did you notice a humming noise? If so, either the drainage hose/pump is clogged and needs to be cleaned or could possibly have another issue with the door lock assembly or pressure switch. You can also press and hold the start/pause and cancel button together at the same time for approximately 30 seconds to display an error code on the LED. What error code does it display? With this information I can advise you further on what the main issue could possibly be.
Jan 12, 2013 | Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer
Aug 12, 2011 | Frigidaire Washing Machines
Dec 10, 2010 | Sony KDF-E60A20 60 in. LCD HDTV
Jul 05, 2009 | Honda Garden
May 09, 2009 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer
Feb 04, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...
Sep 11, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Nov 21, 2007 | Washing Machines
103 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: