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Both of the electrical boards have failed at the same time. Trying to decide if we should replace them, will it just happen again? Seems too coincidental for both to go at the same time, why did this happen?
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The Keypad (membrane) switches seem to be malfunctioning, this is very common on ovens these days especially if the unit has been self cleaned often. If you replace the membrane switch the unit should have all its functions again.
If the unit fails to turn on, it seems the circuit board has failed. These are sensitive to power surges, or other electrical disturbances. You can have a circuit board replaced, but many times over; the cost is as much or more than a replacement.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
In your owners manual you will see the manufacturer recommends a surge protector. You can purchase individual wall socket surge protectors for $15.00-$20.00.
The slightest change in power supply will do this. Static electricity will knock out control board. Then, you ma have had a bad board.
I have gone on service calls, replaced the control board, only to find out that the board I put in was bad.
I was required to return failed electric boards to the manufacturer for reconditioning. So, if you were to purchase a board it may not be new. It could be reconditioned.
If you ever decide to replace a board yourself; ground yourself by rubbing your hands on steel. Remember static electricity will knock out a board.
many possible causes. sounds all too much like a crank sensor failing. when it dies, does it act like you shut key off, (instant stall)? or does it sputter and cough, then stall out? seen this same situation and problem many times in my shop and a cranksensor fail can be hard to catch when it fails. most likely cause.
Sounds like your defrost cycle has failed. Your defrost cycle is operated by a defrost timer or your motherboard depending on the age of your refrigerator. When your refrigerator goes into defrost, it turns on an electric heater that melts the ice from your coil in the freezer. When your defrost time or electric heater fails, it allows ice to build up on the coil in your freezer which blocks airflow which causes your cooling compartments to not maintain temperature. Hope this gives you an idea what to look for and a guide on where to start looking
I just had the same problem this morning, but my monitor is now up and running. First, I tried unplugging from the wall for a long time to discharge any capacitance - still didn't work. Next, I took the back of the TV apart and reseated connectors - stll no good. Next, I unscrewed the power board and replaced the main large inlet capacitor - still no good. Finally, I was about to throw it out the window when I decided to reflow the solder on the main controller board using my hot air gun. Yes, it worked and is working right now! I would not advise doing a hot air reflow unless you are ready to throw it in the garbage. Explanation: Solder joints can become stressed, (seems like it happens a lot when the weather gets colder) sometimes causing them to split or fracture. By heating up the solder, you allow the cracked joints to reflow and rejoin once again making good electrical connection.
Your oven temperature sensor has failed(e-2) as well as your electronic control board(f-6).
The oven temp sensor, electronic control board and the touchpad must be replaced .
Approximate cost of parts is $500.00.
Before you decide what to do, check the thermal fuse at the control panel first. If blown, replace it and the temp sensor.
If you are lucky the control board may still be good.
This is a problem with the control panel assembly, which we repair nationwide for $39.95.
If you or a friend decide to disassemble it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
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