What should i do?? actualy if i switch on the A/C, the noise will happend something like a bearing tensioner is damaged..so the point is eaither i should buy the new part and changed the two parts(belt and tensioner)..or just changed the belting only..because to get the two parts is so expensive.. please solve these problem if you expert..
Ok if its the a/c just remove the belt and test the pullys for noise and ware but if you still get the noise and it is comming from the cam belt GET IT LOOKED AT if the belt snaps you will need to remove the cylinder head and replace the valves cost you a lot of cash
andy
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
There could be a few possible reasons for the grinding noise in your Fisher and Paykel front loader washing machine. Here are a few things to check:
Check the drum paddles: If the drum paddles are worn or broken, they can create a grinding noise during the wash cycle. Check to see if any of the paddles are loose or damaged.
Check the drum bearings: The drum bearings are responsible for supporting the drum and allowing it to spin smoothly. If they are worn or damaged, they can cause a grinding noise. To check the bearings, try spinning the drum by hand. If it makes a grinding noise or feels rough, the bearings may need to be replaced.
Check the drive belt: If the drive belt is loose or worn, it can cause a grinding noise. Check the belt for any signs of wear or damage, and make sure it is properly tensioned.
Check the motor: A faulty motor can sometimes cause a grinding noise. If you suspect the motor is the problem, it's best to call a professional for assistance.
If none of these solutions fix the problem, it's best to call a professional to diagnose and repair the issue.
Your correct, It isn't the engine. I would start with the brakes, maybe wheel bearings, Axles. If front wheel drive, Lift the front tires off the ground and run it. If the noise goes away, look towards the back. Check the front bearings with the tires off the ground. Grab top and bottom, Wiggle the tire. Any movement the bearing is bad.
hi from uk may i offer advice ? considering age of car and possible high milage ?? if you have not replaced the cambelt+tensioner which should be donearound 60,000 mls have it checked asap as if belt or tensioner fails you are looking at serious damage ! however this rubbing noise? may turn out to be some other fault like alternator bearing? or water pump but as you mention rubbing and especially grinding? i would suspect c/belt+tensioner ? so resist driving too far untill this noise is investigated sorry unable to provide a diagnosis as have not heard noise but hope you take advice given ?
If it's a wrist pin or a rod bearing you are taking a chance on heavy damage if you run it until something breaks. Maybe you could get a Motorcycle Mechanic to listen to it and give you an opinion. I think the odds would favor a rod bearing.
Could be several things. WHICH ENGINE?.. 4 cylinder (has three belts, power steering/water pump, alternator & A/C compressor, one tensioner pully A/C compressor), The V6 2.7 (has only one belt, 1 Idler pully and 1 tensioner pully), the V6 3.5 has two belts - A/C/alternator, and power steering - there are two tensioner pullys). Noises can be caused by the belt(s) themselves, pullys, bearings, pully bearings, water pump shaft bearings (or belts/pullys rubbing up against something). Let's not forget that there is also belt(s) behind the Timing Belt cover as well as pullys and bearings associated with the timing system. You could start by removing one accy drive belt at a time (alternator, water pump, compressor, power steering, etc) to see whether or not the noise goes away in each case. If after each case, you discover the noise is still there, it's probably behind the timing belt cover (idler/tensioner pully, water pump shaft bearing, crankshaft bearing, etc.). Good Luck
×