Whirlpool washer doesn't spin or empty. Could the lid switch cause both issues

see this causes:
t doesn't pump or spin
frozen puller, or broken belt, lid switch defective or open replace
It pumps, but doesn't spin
lid switch defective, motor coupler defective,belt broken, clutch worn,drive motor defective,transmission is not shifting properly, basket worn,
It spins only with the lid closed
for security reason, only spin with the lid closed

see the causes:
t doesn't pump or spin
frozen pulley or broken belt replace+lid switch open or defective replace
It pumps, but doesn't spin
lid switch defective, motor coupler defective,belt broken, clutch worn,drive motor defective,transmission is not shifting properly, the basket is worn.
It spins only with the lid closed
for safety, only sping with the lid closed.

If your washer doesn't drain or spin, you may read and learn what parts may cause this. First, you will want to check your water pump. You need to make sure it is working. Make sure you check the belt on the pump. Make sure it is not broken or loose. Also, make sure your pulley is not stuck in place. Sometimes, they will stick or barely turn at all. If this is the case, you will need to replace it. If the pump, pulley, and belt are working, make sure your motor is working. You should be able to hear it if it is. If it isn't, check your lid switch. The lid switch can cause the motor to not work. It may need adjusted. If not, go ahead and change it. A bad lid switch may cause the washer to not work at all. Now, if your pump is pumping and the washer still won't spin, you will want to check your belt and clutch. Once again, the belt may be broke or loose. Check to make sure your clutch is not worn also. This may be a case of a bad lid switch again as well. You could have a bad drive motor. This is what controls spinning, draining, and agitation. You could have a broken motor coupler. Over time, they will go bad and need replaced. It is possible that your transmission is slipping or damaged. And lastly, you could have a bad basket drive ir spin bearing. This is what allows the inner tub to move. If this is the case, you will probably hear loud sounds or loud banging. I want to thank you for reading and I hope this helps you. Best regards and thanks for reading

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.29852991&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

What you have there is a broken lid switch I would be willing to bet. I have 2 videos here one shows how to access the lid switch and the other shows how to replace it.




If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Depending on make and model, you could have a number of problems that can cause this problem. The first thing I would check is the lid switch. If the lid switch is not working, the washer will agitate and drain but will not spin.
Other issue can be or include shift solenoids, transmission, clutch and timer malfunctions.
Check the lid switch, it has a high probability of being the cause.
Regards,

Hi, There are several causes for this problem. Check these.

• No spin at all: the lid switch is fried. You test it with your meter.                                  There will be a motor which spins the washing machine's drum.                                              If you don't hear the motor running, then its the lid switch which would have been broken and needs replacing. A bad lid switch wil interrupt the spin cycle.

• In the Whirlpool washers, a common problem is that the lid plunger stops making contact with the lid switch. Use a pen to manually press the lid switch actuator (with the lid up, duh). If the washer spins...well, you know the rest.

• Older (belt-drive) Whirlpool: the spin solenoid is burned out or has cut wires. Ohm out that solenoid (20-30 ohms) and test with a test cord. Make sure the wires are intact by giving them a little tug. If this is OK, you may need to adjust/replace the basket drive.

• Newer (direct-drive) Whirlpool:  worn out direct drive coupler.

• The drive belt has had it. Look for excessive glazing on the sides of the belt or cracks in the power side of the belt. On Maytags, replace the belt set if they look glazed or shiny on the sides even though the belts may look OK otherwise. Belts on other brands will be more obviously bad. Here's how to replace the belt on older Whirlpool/Kenmore belt-drive washers, and on old-style GE/Hotpoint washers.

• Timer is fried. On older timers, it's sometimes possible to run an external jumper to replace the bad internal contacts. Usually, however, the entire timer must be replaced. The only way to confirm is to use your meter and wiring diagram.

These are the causes that have to be inspected. You can also visit this site www.whirlpool.com/custserv/index.jsp

Hope my info solves your problem, Thanx for using fixya, Good luck.

BAD LIDSWITCH OR THE SCREWS ON THE LEFT SIDE HINGE ARE LOOSE CAUSING THE LID TO BOW UP APPLY PRESSURE ON THE LID TO GET IT TO START SPINNING IF IT DOES TIGHTEN THE SCREWS ON THE HINGE IF IT DOESN'T THE LIDSWITCH NEEDS TO BE REPLACED

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/marlon_56d9a24f02585258

There could be 2 possible issues, one, the simplest is the switch activated by the lid, look for a plastic "prong" sticking out from the lid, see where it goes and find a switch, use sometime of similar size and see if you can activate it. If that is eliminated then it is a plastic coupling broken, quite involve, need to remove the back lower section and inspect for this, Had both these issues myself.

will not empty??? TOP loading washer???? sounds like a bad lid switch, agitates but doenst advance to rinse, remains full of water?? if so lift the lid up and downa few times hear a "clicking" noise??machine doesnt think lid is closed so for safety reasnos wont spin/drain replace the door latch