GE washing machine, everything works, but spin cycle, time-ok, lid switch-ok, trans-ok, clutch-ok. motor spins to agitate, but when time for spin cycle, motor wont run at all, there is a start switch on the motor itself, could this be my problem, does this control motor direction? model# WCXR1070T4WW
My GE washer # WJSR2080T2WW does everything but spin. Could it be the capacitor?My GE washer # WJSR2080T2WW does everything but spin. Could it be the capacitor?
I have a GE washing machine that will not spin at all either. I thought at first the load may be too heavy, but I have done very large loads before with no problem at all. Will not spin in any cycle, however it will agitate. It does smell like the motor is burning out or something when the spin cycle is supposed to be happening.I have a GE washing machine that will not spin at all either. I thought at first the load may be too heavy, but I have done very large loads before with no problem at all. Will not spin in any cycle, however it will agitate. It does smell like the motor is burning out or something when the spin cycle is supposed to be happening.
AnonymousMar 21, 2014
clutch spins but the agitator dontclutch spins but the agitator dont
AnonymousMar 24, 2014
after wash it pumps out and beeps, sounds like a motor trying to start. it is like it tries to turn in one direction then the other. The machine does not advance any more just beeps. That is on normal wash. Put it on spin and it pumpd out locks the lid and spins is there a fault code list? How do you access the codes and what do you think is wrong?
thanks.adelaide ausafter wash it pumps out and beeps, sounds like a motor trying to start.
it is like it tries to turn in one direction then the other.
The machine does not advance any more just beeps.
That is on normal wash.
Put it on spin and it pumpd out locks the lid and spins
is there a fault code list?
How do you access the codes and what do you think is wrong?
thanks.adelaide aus
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Same problem (but without any smell). You should try to reset the two computer boards in the washer. You do this by 1) unplugging machine and wait for 30 secs; 2) plug in machine; and 3) open and fully close the lid at least 5 times. This resets computer boards, which can get messed up by power surges, etc.
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If
the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or
a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the
washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn
freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken
or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley
before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't
running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine
can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the
washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to
raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the
switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The
lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't
spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the
washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many
Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive
motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of
the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time,
the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A
belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a
belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine
belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed
with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The
clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come
up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent
the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need
to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified
appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be
defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the
motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's
possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to
operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire
motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly.
Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an
electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially
defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex
system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a
qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The
spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components
allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is
the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call
a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For
safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid
closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
There are many possibilities for this problem.
you will have to check all of them one by one mentioned as follows :---
There is a lid switch in
the washer. The washing machine will not start spinning till the lid is closed.
In some cases it has been seen that lid is closed still the washer does
not agitating. in this cases the lid switch has to be checked. if the lid
switch is faulty then the closed lid will not be detected by the washing
machine, and it will not start agitate cycle. But if the lid switch is ok
checked, then other possibility can be fault in the motor coupler. Many a times
the motor coupler is broken .The motor coupler is plastic/rubber kind of
material fitted on the shaft of the motor .Check properly if the motor coupler
seems cracked, worn out loose or broken then it needs to be replaced to solve
the issue. But if motor coupler is
checked ok then other possibility for this problem is the spinning belt. If the belt is worn out or
loose or cracked/broken then it needs to replace. Only for GE washers. In GE model washers, there
is a clutch used for proper spin speed. If the clutch wears out, it has to be
replaced.But if clutch/belt seems
ok. then other possibility is driver motor itself .check if the motor has power
if not then the motor is got internally burnt .in this case the drive motor
needs to be replaced. but if drive motor is functioning properly then other
possibility to be checked for this fault is the transmission shifter and
pulley. If the transmission shifter becomes defective, the unit may drain the
water but not spin. Replacing the shifter is bit time consuming and tough job.
you will require proper tools to deal with this problem.. But if the transmission
shifter is properly working then other possibility to check is the Agitator itself.If the transmission is moving properly but the Agitator is getting stuck and not moving properly then its the fault in the agitator assembly that has to be replaced to solve the problem.This will help.Thanks.
There are many
possibilities for this problem, but the most common and regular problem seen is
as follows:-- There is a lid switch in
the washer. The washing machine will not start spinning till the lid is closed.
In some cases it has been seen that lid is closed still the washer does
not spin. in this cases the lid switch has to be checked. if the lid
switch is faulty then the closed lid will not be detected by the washing machine,
and it will not start spin cycle. But if the lid switch is ok checked,
then other possibility can be fault in the motor coupler. Many a times the
motor coupler is broken .The motor coupler is plastic/rubber kind of material
fitted on the shaft of the motor .Check properly if the motor coupler seems
cracked, worn out loose or broken then it needs to be replaced to solve the issue.
But if motor coupler is checked ok then other possibility for this problem is
the spinning belt. If the belt is worn out or loose or
cracked/broken then it needs to replace. Only for GE washers. In GE
model washers, there is a clutch used for proper spin speed. If the clutch
wears out, it has to be replaced to. But if clutch/belt seems ok. then other
possibility is driver motor itself .check if the motor has power if not then
the motor is got internally burnt .in this case the drive motor needs to be replaced.
but if drive motor is functioning properly then other possibility to be checked
for this fault is the transmission shifterand pulley. If the transmission shifter becomes defective, the unit may
drain the water but not spin. Replacing the shifter is bit time consuming and
tough job. you will require proper tools to deal with this problem. But if the transmission
shifter is properly working then other basic possibility to check is the spin
bearing/basket drive. The part may be rusted ot got worn out completely. So the
inner tub is not spinning freely inside the outer tub. If this is the case then
you will hear a loud squiring/chirping sound during the spin cycle. So the
bearing fault will be easily identified. Before replacing the spin bearing
check if the bearings are got dried up or they are worn/rusted. If dried then
apply bit greasy material on the bearings and check out. But if still the noise
it needs replacement. But if the bearings are rusted/worn out then it needs replacement.
That is confirmed. This will help.Thanks.
check to lid switch is working.
if so, then you will need to take the washer cover off, jumper the lid switch and washer the motor as it trasntions from agitiation to rinse/spin. If the motor is turning but the tub is not, then you have a clutch problem or gearbox problem. Some times the clutch gets greased up and starts to slip, inspect closely. This mean you will need to that the water pump off, motor to see the clutch
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
If you have little to no agitation (as well as spin), look for a broken motor coupling (connects motor to transmission). If the motor coupling is ok, open the lid and select a spin cycle, insert a flat screwdriver or pen into the lid switch and try pushing the drum along in a clockwise direction. If it doesn't spin or spins slowly then the brake/clutch assembly is slipping and will need to be replaced. Good luck!
It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
* The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
* The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
* A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
* The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
* The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
* The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
* The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up." Bless You, From NGAFM, Please give me a rating before you sign off!
My GE washer # WJSR2080T2WW does everything but spin. Could it be the capacitor?
I have a GE washing machine that will not spin at all either. I thought at first the load may be too heavy, but I have done very large loads before with no problem at all. Will not spin in any cycle, however it will agitate. It does smell like the motor is burning out or something when the spin cycle is supposed to be happening.
clutch spins but the agitator dont
after wash it pumps out and beeps, sounds like a motor trying to start.
it is like it tries to turn in one direction then the other.
The machine does not advance any more just beeps.
That is on normal wash.
Put it on spin and it pumpd out locks the lid and spins
is there a fault code list?
How do you access the codes and what do you think is wrong?
thanks.adelaide aus
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