Specification of part place in the heat sink of the acer al1716As lcd monitor power supply pcb,i cnnot recognized burnt already,is that IC or transistor.it has 6 pin

Hi guys the pwm ic number in acer v193hqv is TEA 1530 AP.......

This should be the kit you need. Just verify your power supply board is the FSP043-2PI01

http://www.ccl-la.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=143

sometime there is a main power switch on the back of some tv's. if that is not the case try replacing the power plug.

This is caused by a defective spacer under the A / V board. This is not recommended for owner repair, since it involves removal of other PCBs, Sheilds and "spacers" and connectors. On the A / V board ( the one with all the jacks ), is an audio IC that normally runs fairly hot. Therefore, the MFG had to use an aluminum heat sink on the top and bottom of the IC. The problem is that there is a "clay like " spacer pressed between the bottom PCB at the audio IC and an aluminum plate, or heat sink, underneath that sets against the metal back of the LCD panel. Here is what happened; The "spacer " turns into a "sticky goop" causing the whole pcb move towards the Heat Sink under the A / V board. This causes the connections at A / V pcb at the audio IC to come in contact with the bottom aluminum heat sink, thus shorting out the audio IC and then no sound or popping noises. This is common on the D4 and D6 models.We charge about $325 for this repair since it is very time consuming.

Service manuals, there are more than one versions:
http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresult&megnev=ACER&megnev2=AL1716A&kategoria=&kat2=all
Hope it will help.
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Is this monitor supplied from AC outlet straight or through AC-adapter? If through adapter check the voltage on DC connector. If straight, then you need to open monitor and check fuse, located on the power supply PCB, carefully, don't get electrocuted, because in some models the large capacitor in the switching power supply may hold the charge for long time.
If fuse is ok, take a look over all electrolytic capacitors on the power supply board, are there any of them blown or even just little bit rounded on top? If yes, replace them with proper ones. Also take a look at solder side of PCB and carefully check if there are some cracked junctions, especially at power diodes, heat-sinked transistors, power resistors and pulse transformer - as far as these parts are heating more than others. Described steps can troubleshoot half of all problems in LCD monitors.

Before you do anything else, disconnect the monitor from the computer, then try to turn it on and see if you get any life out of it, if you do then there is a problem with your video card or video cable. If you get nothing then you have to start working on the inside of the monitor.

If you will look online you can probably find a copy of the service manual that will help you tremendously.

Given your description the monitor is getting no power from the power supply. So after unplugging the monitor, the first place to check is the fuse in the internal power supply, you will need a multi-meter. If it is blown you will have to order a new one from Acer. If the fuse is good then the problem will lie with one of the micro switches on one of the circuit boards -- it is sending a false reading to the power supply and forcing it to turn off. This is where the service manual will be critical because there are so many differences between monitors I can't tell you where to go next if the fuse is good because there are just too many possibilities.

Hello,

Aside from the capacitor and IC, there's a relay that you need to change. You need to locate that defective relay on the PCB and replace it.

It would be best to consult the manufacturer of the LCD and get the exact part number of it.

Have a great day!

Regards,

Firesnake09

Samsung 153V LCD Monitor Power Supply Repair Tips

Troubleshooting Samsung 153V LCD power supply is just like troubleshooting those CRT type. This monitor came in with no power symptom. If you are first time repairing this type of power supply, I recommend you to first remove the switch mode power transformer. Then test every single component in the primary section, before you continue to check the secondary section.

You have to be good in testing basic electronic components in order to detect the fault. You can always browse through my website just in case you do not know how to test basic electronic components. If you do not know the right way to check, you might miss out a bad component and this will lead you not able to solve the problem. After carefully checking all the components in the power supply section, I found the filter capacitor do not have any reading using digital capacitance meter (open) , the two round type fuse also open circuit, 1N4744 15 Volt zener diode short circuit and lastly the power IC TOP247F blown!.

Testing the SMPS (switch mode power supply) primary winding with a **** smith fly-back tester, shows green bar which indicates good winding. What we left here were the secondary diode and filter capacitor. Upon checking them with analog meter and ESR meter, found all of them to be good condition. Other area like main board and inverter board also looks okay (Power failure rarely affect these two circuit). Now we have confirmed that only five components found to be faulty.

One by one the components were replaced (except one fuse) and just before you switch on the power supply, make sure you connect a 100 watt light bulb across the live ac line. Once it is done you can then proceed to switch on the LCD monitor to look at the brightness of the bulb.

If it very bright, this suggests that there are still short circuit somewhere in the power section. If it dim or totally goes off, you can now place your red probe to the secondary side to check if any dc present at their respective line. If there are DC voltages present at the output, you can switch off the power, discharge the filter capacitor (for safety purposes), remove the light bulb and connect back the new fuse to its original location.

You are now hundred percent sure that the LCD power supply won

hello,
this problem accure due to vertical o/p ic is failiur so plz checked it from any hardware engineer or if you changed it. you are welcome. i't mostly 9 pin ic on heat sink. it's mostly located at the horizantal _ vertical coil's wire( 4 wire attached with pcb) are placed.
ok
bye