Voltage going to the breaker, but know power comming out of the breaker

Your trailer has two electrical systems, 12v and 120v. The 12v system has a battery and perhaps a converter/charger to power it. The 120v system must he hooked up to 'shore power.' Both systems have their own protection. The 12v system has a fuse panel, check for power at each fuse. 12v wall switches are often smaller and don't look like typical 120v switches like in a house.

The 120v system has a breaker box and circuit breakers. Reset each breaker by turning off then on again. In addition, the 120v outlets might have a GCFI outlet near a sink. It often is wired first in a breaker circuit, thus giving GCFI protection to other outlets in the circuit. Test the GCFI and make sure it clicks off and can be reset.

You didn't provide all pertinent info available to you. Lets take what we have; and, consider why your compressor is overloading the circuit breaker. Points to ponder:

1. Not knowing the exact model (not series) I don't know what the amperage pull is for your "extreme" compressor or the circuit breaker's rating. A 25 amp compressor connected to a 25 amp breaker could be an issue. Campbell Hausfeld's support pages are crashing so I can't check the possabilites.
   

2. Are you using a lightweight extension cord? The lower the rating of an extension cord the higher the amp pull on the breaker. If you eliminate the extension cord does the problem go away? Ohm's Law applies. <http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator>
   

3. What else is on this breaker? Is there other high-amp equipment in another room (water cooler, window air-conditioner, portable electric heater, etc.) pulling from this same circuit breaker.
   

4. Is the circuit breaker not performing to specification? I've seen failing breakers trip early.
   

   First, check the owner's manual for power requirements. Next step, use no extension cord; and, insure nothing else is pulling power on that breaker. Then, use a different breaker and see if the problem follows the compressor. If all else checks out than I'd consider binding in the compressor causing the amp pull to be too high.
   

   Good Luck!
   

MichaelUnwire the motor and turn the breaker on.

• Check to make sure you have power coming out of the breaker.
  
• If the breaker seems to be operating normally check the voltage at the motor when the breaker is on.
• If there is voltage going to the motor then there is going to be a problem with the motor.

Is it the correct voltage going to the motor? If perhaps this is a 120v motor and you have just sent 230v to it you have damaged the motor.


Not sure other than that starting point.


Rod
US Parts Center
888-521-6183

I don't know how technical you are so here are a few easy tests you can try:

plug a known, working lamp into each plug of the receptacle (top and bottom). This minimizes other potential issues.
Switch each circuit breaker FULLY off and then, Fully on. Yes, it is tedious but sometimes, breakers trip and it doesn't always show.
Still not working? Open up the cover plate and look at the contacts. You should have a black wire going to a gold colored screw and a white wire going to the other side, silver colored screw.

The best test you can conduct is using a simple voltmeter (AC) to test if you are getting voltage to the outlet. No AC Voltage? Try going to the known circuit breaker and measure the voltage coming from the known breaker while the other lead is on your neutral bus. Of course, if you aren't experienced with electricity, I recommend you get a licensed electrician to troubleshoot the issue.

As well, I know you mentioned that you tried resetting breakers but with a load on the circuit and someone else verifying it for you, you may just get lucky. More than likely, you will either encounter a faulty outlet, faulty wiring or a faulty breaker.

Verify your voltage at the wall receptacle before assuming you have a dryer problem. You should be reading 220-240VAC across the two HOT (left and right) terminals. If the voltage is not correct, you may have a breaker tripped somewhere. Most homes utilize a single dedicated 220VAC breaker for the dryer circuit. However, some older homes, may use two 120VAC breakers. So, if you are missing half your voltage, you may have a breaker tripped, or a bad receptacle.<br /> <br /> If the voltage IS correct, you may not have your power cord installed correctly. Since you mentioned you changed the power cord, you may want to go back and verify how you have it installed. The following link explains how to properly install an appliance cord to your dryer:<br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord">http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord</a><br /> <br /> <br /> Make sure you have the wires correctly terminated at the terminal block in the back of the dryer.<br /> <br /> <br /> If the power cord is installed correctly, and the voltage at the receptacle is correct, UNPLUG the dryer and check the continuity of the power cord. Perform a resistance check from end to end to ensure the cord isn't broken.<br /> <br /> NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run with half the input voltage, but won't heat, is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC to run. This voltage is tapped off the source voltage. The heating circuits, however, require the full 220 service to work.<br /> <br /> If you have any questions about these procedues, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

need to know which breaker- house ele. panel breaker, which should be a min. of 50 amps,or the element breaker located inside either the upper or lower cover. If it is the element breaker/reset switch, this can be changed with great ease. Turn the power off and the ele. panel, check with a voltage meter to make certain power is off at the unit, loosen or remove the wires- making sure as to location of wiring, remove the switch and replace, reconnect wires, turn breaker back on,and you should be ready to go, This is assuming you have a 50 amp breaker in the electricial panel.

If you have no voltage on the buss bar ... you will not have any on the back side of the breaker.

The first thing you must do it get power running into the panel.

When the panel is hot, now you can prove or disprove voltage at the back side of the breaker.

I can tell you from experience, if you have a hot panel and your breaker is not passing power and there are ants around, that you will not get power. Ants love to move into the housing of a nice warm breaker. The only fix for this is replace the breaker.

But, as I said, you got to get power to the panel first.

Let me know what happens

a

You need to get a new electrician; a real electrician would read the power requirements on the motor name plate and install the correct voltage and amperage circuit.

A single pole breaker does not supply the same voltage as a double pole breaker. It hums because the voltage is wrong

You need to trace out the power wires the come out of the genset. They will end up on a breaker. With a volt meter measure both sides of the breaker. If one side has voltage and the other side doesn't, then your breaker is opened. Press the breaker in closed to see if it actually closes. If it don't then you will need a breaker. However, if no voltage is being produced, it is possible that the voltage regulator let go.

I assume you mean a gfci recepticle? If this is the case you need to take the black wire from the house and pigtail it to go to both the recepticle (Black / Line) and one line side screw of the switch. The white wire from the house goes directly to the line/white side of the recepticle. Also pigtail the ground to go to the green screw on the recepticle, the green screw on the switch, the green wire from the motor, and the ground screw on whatever box you're using. When you purchase the switch make sure you get a two pole switch rated for at least the amperage of the motor. The red wire from the house and the black wire from the pigtailed black will go to the two line side screws of that switch. The red and black from the motor will go to the two screws on the load side of that switch. Make sure to ground everything properly being so close to water. The cover needs to be sealed securely and I recommend the cover that has the lever to activate the switch as opposed to the little door over the switch handle. Also make sure the two breakers supplying those two circuits have a handle that turns them both off at the same time.