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A 35-80 mm lens is 2.3X zoom. Divide 80 by 35 and you'll get the result.
It is usually better to know what the focal length of a lens in "35 mm equivalent" is and judge by that, rather than relying on the "X" power of the lens. For instance, most point and shoot cameras start at about 35 mm and have either a 3X or 4X zoom. This would make it a 35-105 or a 35-140. I've seen some that start at 28 mm, though. A 3X starting at 28 mm is 28-84 and a 4X is 28-112. Neither one is a particularly strong telephoto lens and the 4X is just about the same as the 3X that starts out at 35 mm.
It's also important to realize that tradition dictates that lens focal lengths are usually expressed in terms of "35 mm equivalent," where "35 mm" refers to a 35 mm film camera. This is because of the relation between the sensor size and the actual focal length of the lens and the resultant angle of view of the lens.
I have one point & shoot that is actually a 5.8-24 mm zoom. This is a 4X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 28-116 mm. The sensor is 7.2x5.3 mm. (1/1.8") (And I wish I knew someone who could explain how the heck they came up with sensor size terminology!)
I have another point & shoot that is actually a 5.7-17.1 mm zoom. This is a 3X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 34-102 mm. "How could a shorter focal length give a longer 35 mm equivalent?" you might ask. It's because the sensor is only about 5x4 mm. (1/2.5")
I have a few Nikon DSLR's and - thankfully - they all have the same size sensor. They all have a "lens factor" of 1.5. This means that you just multiply the actual focal length of the lens to get the 35 mm equivalent and then you can make comparisons accurately from camera-to-camera. Most Canon's, for instance, have a lens factor of 1.6. On a Nikon DSLR, a 28 mm lens is the "35 mm equivalent" of a 42 mm lens. On most Canon DSLR's, the same 28 mm lens is the equivalent of a 45 mm lens.
These example are just to show you how freaking confusing it can all become if you try to make sense of the "X" power of a zoom lens.
Bottom line...
Check the 35 mm equivalent specifications for the lens. This way, you will be leveling the field and comparing apples to apples. More or less.
you need a proper t2 adapter. when you remove the m42 adaptor on tair lens, you can attach the proper t2 to nikon adaptor on it. check my tair 300 photo. it has "t2 to m42" adapter on it. please be sure that find the correct adapter. i bought several adapters to find the correct one. one of them was different than t2 adapter but looking alike and sold as t2 by seller. it is hard to find the correct adapter. i guess there are variants of that standard(which is odd).
Though the Tamron AF 55-200mm Di II LD Macro has "Macro" in its
name, it's not really a macro lens. Maximum magnification is about 1/3 life size
(Tamron spec it at 1:3.5) as you can see from the following image below, which was shot
at 200mm and at the closest focus distance (0.9m/37.4"). This isn't too bad, but
it's more of a close focus telephoto lens than a "macro" lens (bolding for emphasis added).
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Err 99 could mean several different things, such as... Memory Card, Lens or Lens contacts.... Here's what you can try: Remove the memory card an enable "shooting with out memory card" and see if you still get the error. If it works your memory card is bad.Try another lens if you can. Clean the lens contacts with a pencil eraser (be careful not to get eraser dust in the camera body or in the lens). Worst case scenario is, Err 99 could be related to the shutter failing which would mean a trip to Canon. Thank you for using Fixya!
This is the kind of error which you always risk these days in buying lenses which are not from your camera manufacturer. Error 01 simply means that the camera cannot communicate with the lens. Canon's protocols are not open standards and third party manufacturers have to reverse engineer to produce something which works. As they're working in the dark, they cannot always arrive at a solution which makes all models suit all Canon bodies.
You have two possible solutions:-
Visually inspect the contacts on the lens and the camera body and if they're anything other than clean and bright then use a clean pencil eraser on them. Be very, very, careful not to let any of the rubber crumbs into the lens or the camera body.
If that fails, visit the Tamron website to see whether the lens can be returned to be updated for other bodies. if it can't then sell it and buy a later Tamron model or better still a Canon one. They may cost more, but the results are better and their resale value is much higher.
That 2x is not AF-s compatible. It is the older Af style which the d40 does not support. Your camera store should have known this when they sold it to you, unless you bought it mailorder. Then see if they will let you return or exchange it.
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