LE indicates the motor is locked. Check the 3 pin connector at the motor and check the 4 pin connector at the main control if they look good ( no corrosion and fit tight) replace the Hall Sensor. You can enter your model # at www.appliancehelponline.com for diagrams and illustrations.
SOURCE: LG TROMM displays LE
LE stands for Load Error,
First try unplugging the machine for a few minutes and then retry a cycle. If you still get the LE error:
The Hall sensor (part number 6501KW2001A) has failed. The hall sensor is rather easy to replace, and is covered by a seven year part warranty (in the US). Take the back cover off. Take the big nut off and remove the motor rotor. Remove the bolts holding the motor windings. Remove the electric plug on the sensor and unclip it from the motor winding. Snap new sensor on and reassemble. Usually takes under a half hour. On a difficulty scale of 1 - 10, it might rate a 4. This should be a Fix-Ya for your machine, and at basically no cost!
In the US, find a service provider using your zip code at http://us.lgservice.com/index_b2c.jsp or call LG at 800-243-0000
SOURCE: LG Tromm has the error code LE what is it?
unplug the machine or turn power to outlet off. wait five minutes. turn all back on should solve problem
SOURCE: LG TROMM CLOTHES WASHER - "LE" ERROR CODE
I tried a solution I found elsewhere - worked great. I had turned my drum enough to cause the display to turn on (a glitch in their program, I think), then I got the LE code on the next cycle.
Unplug for 10 minutes. Turn back on and press the Rinse & Spin button, then set Spin Speed to No Spin. Run this cycle, which should work fine. Afterwards, you should be able to run your machine as normal. If this doesn't work, replacing the Hall sensor would be the next step.
SOURCE: LE Error Code on Tromm
http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/WM2277/WM2277xx_Service_Manual.pdf page 18 of this service manual elaborates on the LE error code and what to check.. Hope this helps you..
Regards
SOURCE: IE error code LG Tromm washer
IE= Inlet Error. I have struggled with this problem. After much trial and error it appears that it is due to my well water. People who have city water will probably not have this problem with this machine. Well water or hard water buyers beware. This machine is VERY much a primadonna princess capable of stopping your rinse cycle at the slightest imperfections. This is the Princess and the Pea of Washers... but I have a series of possible solutions that will have you appreciating her primadonna superiority once again.
Troubleshooting... Listen.... Does she sound like she is struggling and no water is coming in? If so then it isn't. The cycles will last forever as she makes all sorts of grunting noises. Something is preventing the water from coming in. It could also be that the pressure in to the washer is under 55 psi.
a. I have adjusted the pressure in the pumphouse to allow for minor fluctuations so that the machine will have at least 55 psi.
b. Take off the hot and cold inlet hose and clean the screen at the back of the washer. The two screens are supposed to come out of the male receptacles. They are fragile... beware. I use a squirt bottle/atomizer to clean these screens as mine chipped and will not budge.
c. You can add a screen just off the faucets so that you don't have to move the machine each and every time you get an IE error. This helps but does not solve.
d. I installed a faucet filter that I bought from Home Depot in the PVC sprinkler's section. They are made of a black plastic material and can easily cross thread, so be careful. They look about the size of a one liter container and unscrew midway to reveal a removable cylindrical mesh filter. This makes it possible to widen the surface area where tiny particles can be trapped without totally blocking flow to the inlet sensor. :-) When installing this make sure to completely rinse the hoses, and all screens coming into the machine. I took the shortcut first and thought my idea had failed only to discover that the screen behind the washer was partially blocked.
e. Periodically remove the filter and clean. Depending on the quality of your water, you may need to do this at all the points that have a screen.
I now have a screen washer between the sprinkler system filter and hose and the one that comes installed inside the male ends of the inlets for the water hoses. This has helped enormously.
f. Another possible offender is the soap and softener dispenser. To remove and clean press down on the plastic toggle piece on the soap side, the whole drawer should slide off and clean. Non-HE detergents and softeners can create a buildup of gooey gunk. Just clean it. Inside the drawer space you can clean to increase flow. I use baby wipes.
g. Make sure that the filter on the bottom is free from obstructions. If there is water in the drum, you will be flooded if you remove. This is a last resort after all the inlet lines have been cleaned and cleared.
Note: It doesn't take much to lower the flow of water to the point that this machine will not run. Since you cannot override the computer on it to run a spin cycle or even advance to remove water it can be highly frustrating. I've learned to obey my machine and just clear every last possible inlet.
Best of luck.
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