Bosch 23 in. SHU 8805 Built-in Dishwasher Logo
Posted on Apr 09, 2008
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Bosch SHU9925UC Dishwasher Stuck in Initial Drain Cycle

When dishwasher is started the initial drain cycle comes on. It drains any remaining water in tub, but then drain pump just stays on and never moves into fill cycle.

I read your solution to another Bosch model. I removed the inlet valve to vacuum out any water from the underpan from a "flood" problem. The pan was bone dry. I also had checked and cleaned the drain and impellers to be sure they were clear. I also tried to cancel the cyle buttons and restart.

None of these actions solved anything. I am going to test the inlet valve solenoid and check the intake filter today. I saw that checking for a stuck float may also be a problem, but I am not sure where it is. When I look back behind the inlet valve with a flashlight, I can see a small styrofoam looking donut, but it is sitting flat on the bottom.

  • dcomfort Apr 09, 2008

    I read on appliancepartpros.com blog how someone took off their side panel; the two torx screws inside front rubber door seal. I was then able to get to everything below. The drain pan was dry, but I jigged the red float bar to the float switch a few times and it cycled out into the water fill cycle.



    The dishwasher is starting to run. I'll observe the cycle and see if all goes well.

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  • Posted on Jan 11, 2009
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OK Bosch Dw fans.........here is the fix if your SHX dishwasher is stuck on the drain cycle. This may save you a couple hundred bucks.......so listen up. There is a tendency for the very small float switch to STICK in the ON position, which will cause the drain motor to continuously run......and DISallow any other function to work. DISCONNECT POWER. Did I mention to disconnect power? Take off the front base cover....2 torx screws. Remove the other 2 torx screws in the metal clips that fasten the top of the DW to the underside of your countertop. NOW...carefull slide your DW out. You may have to disconnect your water and elec supply if you do not have enough slack to pull it out. Once the DW is out of the cabinet, remove the shiny metal cover on the LEFT side by removing a single torx screw. You will now see a small plastic assembly with a red plastic piece that moves up and down as it rides on a small red styrofoam float. This up and down movement engages a small white plastic switch visible with 3 wires coming out of it. You can carefully UNSNAP this switch out of its mount, and pull the 3 wire plug off of it. THere is a small square blue plastic tab that is supposed to easily slide in and out of the switch. If it is stuck IN, you can sometimes tap the switch and the blue tab will pop out, which is what it is supposed to do without tapping it. You can carefully with a knife blade separate the case on this switch and note the way it comes apart. Clean out any micro debris out of the small channels that the blue tab ride up and down in. Then set it in the channel while holding up the small switch tab that rides on it and see if it slides up and down without sticking! I like to take a piece of wax paper and rub in on the channel and blue tap to provide some lube for the switch to slide easily on. Now, put the switch back on and manually move the red plastic assembly up and down while you are watching the blue tab. The tab should ride up and down with the red assy. If not, buy a new switch. Google the # on the switch and order one. If the tab slides up and down, put things together in reverse order and give it a try. Hope it works for you. This should take you an hour give or take. Take the $200 you just saved and have a night out on me. ........so even though these German Appliances have a good name because of past reliability, the american tendency to value engineer them with plastic parts to reduce costs and increase profit.........just cost you an hour of your time. Will we ever learn.? ......if it ain't broke, value engineer it until it only lasts through the warranty period so you can then collect service and parts blood money from your fellow american.

  • 4 more comments 
  • ooawoo_fixya Feb 22, 2011

    This article was helpful. In my case, there was water in the flood pan and the float was activating the pump switch. I then discovered that the water inlet valve was leaking into the pan, so the flood pan and float were doing what they were designed to do. Now I'll just have to replace the inlet valve to stop the leak.

  • Justn
    Justn Jan 18, 2014

    I checked the switch, and operating fine, and not stuck in flood position. I also checked voltage across the solenoid in the operating position, and it's still not getting any current (no voltage read across solenoid) to energize and open. Any ideas?

  • David Fleming
    David Fleming May 02, 2014

    After I ran the diagnostic test, it ran perfectly :)

  • David Fleming
    David Fleming May 02, 2014

    Diagnostic testing info:http://fixitnow.com/wp/2005/10/12/bosch-...

  • Igor Katsman Oct 24, 2019

    Excellent instruction! I removed 1/2" dirt plug from the "red" float assembly and drain cycle is back to normal! It is almost same in SHU: unscrew 2 torx within rubber gasket in the front to release left side-panel and lift it up and away.

  • Greg Van Eeckhout
    Greg Van Eeckhout Sep 18, 2020

    great instructions, I figured there was something like a float which turned the intitial draining off to move to the next cycle
    ! thanks s bunch it did save me the effort and cost of simply installing a new dish washer (at least for now)

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  • Posted on Apr 09, 2008
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Way to go!

The plastic lever / switch assembly may have got hung up. Or the flood switch (the microswitch activated by the styrofoam float) may be the problem. If this happens again, I recommend replacing both, because it's a lot of labor to do one, and not much more to do the other.

Let's hope that doesn't happen!

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  • Posted on Oct 27, 2019
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This is a general answer, mainly aimed at those whose Bosch/Neff etc dishwashers will not start, even though all lights are coming on. (This particularly applies to integrated machines, but may well apply to all.) Try pushing inwards on the top of the door. Hold it for a few seconds, and if the machine then operates, it may be because the door has 'dropped' slightly. This is a normal 'wear and tear situation. Just look at the bottom panel under the door, and you'll see a large plastic screw head in the centre. Turn it gently clockwise until resistance is felt. This lofts the door so that the door sensor and door lock switch are returned to a closer position where they will properly locate and make a circuit. Simples!!

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  • Posted on Aug 11, 2015
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Please try this at your own risk of course!

I had exactly the same problem. The DW just wouldn't stop draining. I read the description above, about the plastic parts.

BUT before opening anything, I pulled the DW out a little and then shook it up and down.. not too much, but enough to get the valve system unstuck!

Lo behold - the DW is now running like before. Again, please try at your own risk.

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Kindly check for the following :

Check for hose kinks or food plugging drain hose. Start at the drain port exit.
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Check pump motor for reversing during the pump out make sure the dishwasher is pausing between the wash and drain cycles letting the pump/motor reverse for the drain cycle.
Check pump motor assembly for a drain solenoid, during the pump out make sure the solenoid makes that distinctive "clunk" noise
If you have recently installed a new garbage disposal, check knock-out plug at connection.

93cb8b1.jpg

Check pump impeller for damage.
Check that the water inlet valve isn't seeping fresh water into the dishwasher when off.

Please contact for any further clarifications.

A Fixya Rating would be appreciated if.

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Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
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