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Hi IE means Inlet Error. The machine thinks that it is not filling (as a certain time has passed without reaching level it wants).
This makes sense if water is running out the bottom.
You will need to find the leak. Maybe the tub to pump hose, or the drain pump itself. Once you stop the leak and the machine can fill in the correct amount of time, you shouldnt see the IE error any longer.
Cheer
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
CA Cl Average current limit Or Instantaneous current limit If a status signal comes back from the motor controller that a current limit has been breached, the unit will return to standby mode and display either CA for average current limit trip or Cl for instantaneous current limit trip. Average current trip occurs if there is a 2 second average of current draw greater than 5.55 amps at the motor windings. Instantaneous current trip occurs if there is a spike of 26 amps instantly at the motor windings. This may signify problems with the drive motor, thermal protector, or motor controller. Over-loading the unit may cause this problem.
Depending on where exactly the leak is coming from, it could be a drain hose, drain pump, or tub seal. If this is a top-loader, here's how you can tell:
1. If the leak is coming from the BACK area under the washer, this can be caused by a leaking fill hose, dispenser hose, drain hose, or fill valve.
2. If the leak is coming from UNDER the center area of the washer, this could be your tub seal, a crack in the tub, or an air dome hose leak. NOTE: If the air dome hose is leaking, the washer will fill continuously and not turn off.
3. If the leak appears to be coming from the FRONT under the washer, this could be your drain pump, or drain hoses.
Posting a model number, could assist with determining how your washer is configured. I suspect you may have a drain pump leaking as this is the most common cause, but I want to be sure.
you can remve the lower acess panel (3 screws along teh bottome front panel) too look to see where it coming from. the top also removes with 3 screws along the top of back panel
The leaks in a washing machine could be coming from many different places in the washer.
The first place you need to check is behind the washer, check the two fill hoses and the water mixing valve.
The next thing to do is to remove the front panel, set the washer on the regular cycle and turn it on to start filling.
Use
a drop light and check all the hoses under the washer as the washer is
filling. Make sure to keep your hands away from any moving parts.
If
the hoses are ok, check the pump for leaks. When the bearings in the
pump wear out, that is when the pump will get noisy and that could
cause your Maytag top load washing machine water leaks.
Another
place that the washer could leak water from, is the stem & seal on
the holding tank. When washer leaks water from the stem & seal, the
water leaks down the center of the transmission.
When the stem
& seal need to be replace, the tub bearing has to be replace at the
same time. This is an expensive repair if you have to pay someone to do
it. If you do it yourself it will cost you about $110
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