Have a flashing bi in right corner - Omron Hj 720ITC Advanced Pocket Pedometer

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the psu has failed prob a CCFL fault as it flashes red
the low voltages like 5v is ok

get it serviced by a tv person i think its more too do with the lcd panel

ada yg punya rm-813 v14.92 bi gk

Check the grounds on your 22 year old bike. The flasher works because of heat building up in a bi-metal strip in the flasher. It gets hot, breaks connection; it cools, makes connection, repeat. If the rear lights are NOT coming on, you are not drawing enough power to heat the bi-metal strip thus it is not heating or cooling, making and breaking connection, not flashing. Check ALL ground connections from your rear signal lamp back to the negative terminal on the battery. Dont miss one connection - lamp to lamp holder, lamp holder to fixture housing, housing to fender, fender to frame, frame to battery (minus side) and so forth. Corrosion is not your friend here - if you find it - clean it. I believe you will find that if you put a wire from the housing to the battery negative terminal, your light will come on. If it doesn't, check the hot side of the circuit.

Oh, by the way, your battery is in tip top condition, right?

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To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top
about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull
downward and foreword , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4"
screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both
light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these
5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive
defrost board ( adc ) . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a
white
box will be seen . Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug
going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then
another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert
one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will send
power directly thru the defrost bi-metal ( thermostat ) AND
heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , if you have a clamp on amp
meter , clamp around the jumper wire while pushing in the light switch ( to turn off the
light to get only defrost amps ) which should be 3.5 or above indicating bi metal and heater
are good and adc is bad , OR , wait about 3-5 min and
look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost
heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater
.If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the
plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bi-metal are good . If
you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost
board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and
reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer
panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black
element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace them to the top of the coils
and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good ( should show
continuity ) . If the element IS
good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils .
This is the defrost thermostat ( bi-metal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good .
If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the
bi-metal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bi-metal
already wired together . This would be the advisable replacement part . However , each part
can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bi-metal and the top plastic
" cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bi-metal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed
its
designed function

That hose actually ran Through the floor of your refrigerator on your model. so the leak is most likely under the floor of the fridge in the line coming from the water reseviour to the outlet.

Thaw out the evaporator and check your defrost heater for continuity. Check you bi-metal thermostat for signs of swelling. The bi-metal has to be @25f before continuity can be confirmed on it. Check your defrost timer or adaptive defrost control if the heater and bi-metal check out. Notice the bi_metal mounted upper right hand corner. It opens and kills the heater once the temp gets hot enough to melt the frost.(50f)

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi, You will need to check three different parts of the defrost cycle. The most common problem is the bi-metal switch. UNPLUG the refrigerator and remove the rear inside freezer panel and locate the bi-metal switch attached to the evaporator coil in the upper corner. You will need a voltage/ohms meter for this test. Check the switch to see if it has continuity. Note: This switch has to be cold in order to test it! If it tests open circuit, you will need to change the bi-metal switch. If the bi-metal switch tests ok, then test the defrost heater the same as you tested the bi-metal switch.
IIf both of these parts test ok, you will need to change the defrost timer.
Please get em a model # and I can assist you on locating the timer.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

While in playback mode, image is blinking, the word shadow appears in lower right hand corner, use the info button repeatedly until all disappears and image is pure.