The motor that rotates the scope does not engage i need to replace a gear

Hi, Raymond, the starter clutch is a separate mechanical gear driven component that is activated by the starter motor, it engages the clutch pack ring gear to turn over the engine. It has an internal mechanism that allows the gear to turn in "ONE DIRECTION" only and once the engine starts allows the gear to free spin with engine rotation. If the starter gear free spins in "BOTH DIRECTIONS" then the drive gear has failed, it is not serviceable and needs to be replaced.

For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/1145282-starter-motor-just-spins-and-does-not-engage.html
http://www.mediafire.com/file/6b1dhde35ukpnnc/84+to+98+FL-FX+Harley+Service+Manual.pdf
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300
https://www.6ya.com/

several reasons
the teeth on the ring gear were damaged from continuous grinding during pinion engagement or engagement of the starter when the engine is running causing a burring of the teeth that altered the mesh ability and jammed the ring gear and pinion
metal in the teeth of the ring gear that causes a jam in rotation
starter motor not engaging before rotating
wrong no of teeth on replacement starter pinion or starter motor

Most starters will have a bendix shaft, once the motor starts to rotate the gear follows the bendix thread up into the fly wheel ring gear, so there is either not enough charge in the battary, or the bendix on the starter motor is bad, or the gear itself is bad, or the battary is wired up the wrong way.

This is usually caused by low battery power-- as the hand controller reported. DO NOT USE rechargeable batteries they do not have enough volts. Use alkaline batteries only.

This can also be caused by a broken gear or a failed internal motor. You can return these to Meade for repair.

Here is the contact number:
http://www.meade.com/support/index.html

You can send this into Meade for repairs.
http://www.meade.com/support/index.html

Or you can disassemble the base and look inside. I suspect you have either a loose or broken worm gear inside the base. There are manuals available on the Meade web site but they do not give any disassembly instructions. Call Meade at the phone number above or try taking apart the base and look inside. Only Meade will have replacement parts.

The solenoid is what makes the starter gear pop out to engage the flywheel to turn the motor. If the solenoid is bad, the starter gear won't pop out. If the starter gear does pop out, then the solenoid is good. The starter motor should turn even if the solenoid is bad.

you could have a problem with the transmission/gear box.

it is the main mechanical device that is being driven by the motor to convert the rotating motor to the agitating action of the agitator.

you may need to replace the whole gear box.


tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

7,010.4x: PM_FAULT_HEADTILT_HOME_ERROR
The printhead is stuck in the tilt position by the tilt arms. The process motor gearbox
being out of sync can also cause this error.
1. Reboot the printer.
2. Verify the lock arms rotate correctly.
3. Check for spilled ink around the printhead.
4. Check the process motor gears for damage. Ensure the
process gears are correctly aligned and homed.
5. Verify the process gear box, process shaft, and drive
module shaft are at home position.
6. Verify the headtilt gear will engage, see the home
positioning procedure on page. You can manually
engage the headtilt gear.
7. Run the Tilt Axis Drive test.
8. Run the Process Motor test.
9. Run the Head Maintenance Clutch test, if the test fails
replace the clutch.
10.Run Wiper Drive test. If this fails inspect the wiper
drive system.

Possibly the shaft has jammed. Follow this link for a source of good information: http://www.mapug-astronomy.net/AstroDesigns/MAPUG/ArhvList.htm

From their files:
The locking knob has a gear on the inside end of its shaft. It engages teeth on the outside edge of a large metal disk connected to the mechanism that locks the position of the mirror on the central baffle tube. Rotating the locking knob one direction rotates the large disk to tighten the collet on the central baffle. Reversing direction loosens it.
The teeth do not extend all the way around the large disk. So sometimes the locking knob gear jams to a stop before the lock is fully engaged. Soon after the GPS scopes first started shipping Buck Harley discovered that in such cases you can remove the locking knob with its shaft and gear, then reach in and rotate the large disk with your finger. Replacing the locking knob will now allow sufficient rotation to fully engage the lock. If you happen to move the large disk in the wrong direction, then just repeat the process and move the disk in the other direction.
You don't need to tighten the lock down hard. Just a little snug is enough. You should not attempt to use the coarse focus knob while the mirror is locked. Damage to the focusing mechanism could result.
This design is intended to precisely hold the mirror position. So, yes, it is meant to allow effective use of a separate guide scope by eliminating mirror flop when in the locked position.