Maytag Atlantis Washer - MAV6200AWW will fill and spin, but wont agitate. Also lost the bolt going down into the agitator. Anyone know what size it would be?

You will need to check for an article of clothing stuck between the basket and tub that may be partially blocking the drain hole.

pull the top cap off down insde the agitator is a bolt. it is a 1/2 inch or 7/16 inch in size. remove the bolt and lift up agitator.

hi
the solenoid on the cold water is gone down or it is not fed with electric

did you take off agitator,,look and see if you did eat the bottom of the agitator up,,splines,,

Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.


Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
 
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.

 

Could you describe the noise you are hearing. This will help to determine what to look for.

THIS UNIT HAS A DOOR SAFETY SWITCH WICH ALLOWS WATER TO COME IN BUT NOTHING ELSE TO HAPPEN IF THE DOOR IS OPEN I WOULD START BY CHECKING THIS SWITCH.

Either your transmission is bad which might carry a 5 year warranty or your lid switch needs replacement

You are correct that motor turns one direction for agitate and the other for spin. The problem you describe sounds serious but there is a chance it is not. First, try to turn the transmission by hand. If it wont turn by hand, remove the agitator and see if something has gotten under it and has it locked to the basket. To remove the agitator, pop off the top cap and look down inside. You will see the bolt that holds the agitator on. After you take it loose the agitator will slide off.

If there is nothing there, the transmission will need to be replaced. If the washer is less than 5 years old, the transmission may still be covered by warranty. Check your owners manual for warranty details. Post back to let me know what you find out.

Be sure to check inside basket very carefully to make sure no loose nails or screws or drill bits etc that were left in a pocket are sticking through a hole in the basket and locking it to tub. This is common. If that is not the problem,one of three things has happened. 1 The thrust bearing that releases the brake has worn out. This is the most common and easiest thing to repair. If you tilt the machine back so you can look under it you will see the pulley that turns the transmission. When the pulley turns one direction it works the agitator, turn it the other direction and you should see it push the brake up that is directly above it. The thrust bearing kit includes the pulley and all bearings and washers to release brake. If you are mechanichal and can follow the directions that come with it, it is a fairly simple repair. 2 The brake lining has come apart and "stacked" itself in the brake housing. Replacing the brake is not hard, but there is about 200lbs of spring force pushing against the brake and housing that must be released slowly. I would recommend you call a technician for this just because I don't want anyone to get hurt trying to follow my directions on this repair. 3 An item of clothing has found its way between the basket and tub and has the basket bound up. This would mean removing agitator and basket. It is not likely this has happened, but I have seen it before.