Loading film I have a Bronica ETR. It came with a 135 film back. I think I am loading it right but the film counter won't advance. I have never used this camera. It won't release the shutter unless the counter is on 1. Help

I just read your manual. It is confirming what I said that opening the back resets the counter. As long as it automatically winds on to the next frame after taking the shot, you can just count the shots taken. At the end of the film, the winder mechanism will make a different noise.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1387699/Minolta-Af-101r.html?page=6&term=counter&selected=2#manual

You are brave using film cameras these days. I have a Bronica ETR medium format camera, and an Olympus OM1md and an OM4 plus a Canon Zoom XL that haven't had a film through them in 20 years. Goodwill stores must be full of them.

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Mamiya RB67 Pro SD that is new to me. loaded the film correctly took the first shot. But, the film won't advance. What am I doing wrong?

Hi Lindsay , if you search in ebay you can get it from there.

Sorry Sam, but there isn't one. I just shoot on transparencies (Fuji Velvia 100) and then scan them to obtain digital images.

Transparency film isn't cheap, and even less so with wasted shots, but it's still cheaper than the

Hello. 35mm cameras back in the day used to suffer from this irritating problem. There is a small button that is pressed by the door edge when you close the back. Due to age(flexing and slop) that occurs with normal wear, the metal edge becomes ever-so-slightly bent, resulting in a less-than-needed pressure on this button. The button, when held properly by the back, captures a little internal gear mounted on the film counter dial--preventing its spring-loaded return. When you remove the back to re-load film, the counter immediately jumps back to "start". As the film advances, the roll increases in size and pressure against the door, causing the symptom. Go to a camera store with knowledgeable sales people and you might find one who knows how to re-work the back just-so to fix it. To be absolutely sure, however, you'll need to buy another back.
On some medium-format cams, there is a little raised "bump" on the edge of the door that precisely matches up to the position of the button. If this is the case, and you are careful, it can be gently but firmly squeezed to make it stick out more, increasing the pressure on the counter button.---Rick

All ETR backs work with all ETR cameras except the ETR-C, which only uses the inserts. The early backs have a single latch and a winding key. The middle ones have double latches and a winding thumb wheel. The Ei backs have double latches and a winding crank like a 35mm has. The Ei backs also have a locking dark slide to prevent accidental film exposure wnen the back is off the camera. All inserts work with all the back frames. I the used market you will find them in any combination (frame, insert & darkslide).

I am aware of three series of lenses: MC, EII and PE. They all work fine with any body.

Since I never use a TTL flash with my Bronica's, I'll give you my suggestion for a great solution. Using your TTL Metz flash, (make sure you've connected the TTL cord for Bronica ETRsi) take 8 shots at different apertures on A (Automatic), then take 8 shots at different apertures on M (Manual). I realize this will waste one 120 roll of film, but one negative will stand out as your perfect exposure. Yes, whenever you reduce the ISO in half, your basically overexposing the film by one f/stop. Just remember that this overexposes everything your shooting from foreground to background. With flash, this may cause your highlights to wash out, but any good lab could print for the highlights and make the background go darker. I used to shoot Vericolor at ISO 125 instead of it's rated ISO of 160. 
Fotobean

dear choirboy,
the accepted battery models for the bronica etr-si are 4LR44 and/or 4SR44.

Sincerely,
Agent Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.

Here is a link to an operations manual for your winder, 10$

http://www.photobooksonline.com/books/userbk39ETR.html

skip frames or overlapping(multiple)exposure is caused by the film advancing mechanism. if you treasure your camera y back. send it for service.

pc-cook