Himy f&p GW509 will not drain (just a continuous beep) I have taken out the pump - nothing blocking it so bought a new pump still the same problemif i keep restarting it will eventually empty please help

The drain pump is either blocked or failed. Check the filter if it's clear then you are most likely up for a new drain pump. Here is a link to the part you need and a video on how to do it. Samsung DC31 00030E DRAIN PUMP B20 3 120V 60 NEW ORIGINAL

Definitely, water drain time-out. Error code i20.
The pressure switch doesn't return to EMPTY (1-2) after two drain phases lasting 120 seconds.
Possible causes:
Drain circuit obstructed/blocked; drain pump
interrupted or jammed (foreign bodies); level
pressure switch blocked on FULL (1-3); hydraulic
circuit of pressure switch obstructed; wiring faulty;
circuit board faulty.

Thanks to your detailed description of failure I conclude that in drain phase (after starts drain pump) leaks water and causing a short circuit. I would thoroughly reviewed drain hydraulic circuit. If is alarm displayed and there is no water inside dishwasher then check heater and anti-interference suppressor.

Dado

You have a blockage in the drain hose or pump,
Try to drain all the water out before you remove the pump

Error Code 37,
37. (00100101) Phase 1 to 6 - Pump Blocked Error ( No change in the water
level)
While draining, the water level reading from the pressure sensor has not changed
for over 3 minutes. There are three likely reasons for this fault. One is that the
drain hose or the pressure switch hose has been squashed or kinked and the pump
out rate has been dramatically reduced. The second possibility is that the pump is
partially or fully blocked. The third is that the pump is not operating due to Motor
Controller module, wiring or pump failure. This fault could also appear if the
machine is pumping to an unusually high head of drain hose or into an extended
length of drain hose. The Fourth possibility is a diverter valve fault or blockage,
water level is not altering as the diverter is stuck in the recirculation mode, giving
the module the appearance the pump is not lowering the water level.
Primary Source: Pump System.
Action:
1) Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2) Check the length of the drain hose and try to reduce the length if excessively
long. A 1 metre extension hose of the same diameter fitted to the existing
drain hose is the maximum allowable length.
3) Check for open circuit windings in the pump. (Note: Pumps are fitted with a
thermal cut-out which will reset on cooling.)
4) If the bowl is empty of water, remove the pump from the pump housing and
check that it is not blocked. Also check the drain hose is not blocked.
5) If the bowl contains water, then service the pump from the top of the machine
by removing the top deck and inner bowl. Bail out the water, remove the
pump cap and hood and clear the restriction.
Secondary Source: Wiring.
Action:
1) Check the pump harness is connected correctly to the pump.
2) Check continuity of the pump harness.
Tertiary Source: Motor Controller module.
Action:
Activate the pump by operating the machine in spin mode. Check the pump
is rotating. If it is not operating, and Primary and Secondary checks have
been performed, then replace the Motor Controller module.
Note: Consider fitting Pump Hood Kit (WM013). If 5kg Smartdrive fit splash guard to
pump.

Kate - firstly the windings of the stator when measured is 32 Ohms, earlier models was a lot lower between B-Y-R.

The washer will pump - rest pump (Cycles) during the spin cycle, if however it overheats then water will not be fully pumped out. A possibilty is the hose into the drain or sink is too high, or blocked somewhere.

In most cases the washer will indicate an error code.

The LEDS 1st & 4th from the right im assumming 10010000 = Fault code 144 - either you have a loose connection under the display/push buttons panel or you have a faulty motor control module

It is your mixer value that is malfunctioning.

Possible that the drain value is half blocked and so is not able to block the water in the tub. Remove the connection to the valve and check if this drains , if so it is confirmed. Remove, clean the dirt and reset. If the leak stays then the valve is faulty.
Also it can be due to partial voltage to the drain valve to keep it open which means that the program controller is faulty. This is confirmed when the drain stops as the connection to valve is taken off.

With Kreepy Krauly pool cleaners, it is usually something blocked so you have taken the perfect first step in finding your problem. You will also want ensure that the main drain and all suction lines are closed, except for the line to which the Kreepy Krauly is attached. Also, if this is a new purchase, it could be that your pump and filter system are too small to properly propel the cleaner.

First check that there isn't anything blocking the drain area inside the bottom of the dishwasher. Sometimes plastic wrap, a small Tupperware, etc. top gets sucked against the drain and blocks discharge. If nothing is there, (look really good, by getting out as much water as possible!!!). If nothing there, see if you have an "air-break" installed at the kitchen sink, this prevents backflow from the sink drain back into the dishwasher, check it by removing the decorative cover and see if it is clean and has no obstructions blocking water flow.

Another thing to check, is if you recently had a new disposal installed, it's possible that the dishwasher inlet was never "punched out" all the way to allow for the dishwasher to properly drain thru the disposal. If none of those, continue with the investigation!

Check to see if some broken glass might have worked its' way into the drain area, beneath the drain discharge guard. You'll have to remove the cover, some are just clipped in place while others have a screw holding them in place.

If still nothing, it is possible that something has worked its' way all the way into the discharge pump section and you'll need to remove the dishwasher from under the counter to get at the pump section.

Normally when the dishwasher is in the pump out sequence, you can hear the pump motor and impeller spinning. It is possible that you have a partial obstruction and will have to remove the pump housing to get at the problem

Bucket and towels will be needed to soak up all any water that you couldn't remove before pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop.

If there is no obstruction in the discharge pump section check the discharge value (usually a simple rubber flap) is moving freely and has nothing obstructing it.

You should be able to cycle the dishwasher through a short cycle (wash & rinse) to see if everything is working OK again.

Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.

Rate me pl.....if helped.

two things to check
if drain is plumbed nito a spigot on the sink trap, check that ther spigot and drain hose are not blocked - this is very common
also see if you can get to the drain pump and check there is nothing jamming the impellor. also if you have access to a multimeter, check if the drain pump is powered up