NEED TO KNOW VALUE OF ELECTROLYTIC C34 ON POWER PC BOARD

Hi Bongz
How many times have you posted this question????
You must be desperate.
Your terminology is confusing.........
SIZE is what... Physical size OR VALUE
If you "wanna" know
then look closely at the device.... it's written on them!

By the "size" you refer to... I assume you mean the Value's of the Capacitor.
These are written on the Capacitor as Voltage and uF.
The "size" of an Electrolytic Capacitor depends on the voltage & micro farads(uF) it is storing. (Like a Battery)
You can always add more uF and the voltage rating can be more (but not less).
Does the Cap have signs of leakage around the leads or does it have a Bulge in the top of the can. If so, it's probably bad.
The Electrolytic Cap's wires are marked positive & negative. (Negative is marked down one side).
Do not swap the polarity + - of the cap or it can blow.

The Radeon Graphics Card in a computer would run on probably 5v for logic for circuit boards & 12v for hard drives etc. No more than 12v DC max. So you can replace with a 16v replacement electrolytic Cap. But would be easy to check across the Cap with a voltmeter to find out.
Always buy a Cap with slightly higher voltage rating than the circuit it is going in to.
If it's large and attached to the main power input then it will probably be around 1000uf to 2000uf. The voltage and uF are written on the Cap body.
You can't hurt the electronics (in a power supply circuit) by adding more Capacitance.
Large Electrolytic Cap's are used to remove noise ripple from the power supply. They smooth it out. More Capacity = less ripple.
Because Electrolytic Cap's usually fail as open circuit and loose capacitance it's easy to attach another Cap in Parallel over the bad one. If so...
For troubleshooting purposes, you can leave the current Cap in place and attache a couple of wires of say 1-2 inches. Use coloured wire to keep the polarity correct. Attach 1000uf 16v Cap to wire ends and run the device to see if it's working OK.
Hope all this Helps
Trevor

Here is a picture with the 1500uf cap circled in red. It really is best to replace all 7 capacitors with 25v parts not the original 16v ones, one later power supply builds they did this because the 16v caps failed to fast.

Instead of replacing the whole board, look for bulging (top) or leaking (bottom) electrolytic capacitors. Usually the failure is one or more of these inexpensive components which you can order from Digi-key.com and have delivered next day.
Try to stick to the correct value (uF) but you can go over voltage. do NOT go under voltage. for instance you can replace a 1000uF 16V cap with a 1000uF 50V cap, but not with a 10V.

Hello,

The issue you describe is consistent with a power supply board issue. This is the board where the AC goes to. This problem may have occurred as a result of irregular power supply, or excess power supply or power surge.

The TV is receiving current but cannot circulate or transfer the current to other necessary part of the TV because of the defective power supply board. You might be lucky it's just a blow fuse. Also a defective transformer can cause your TV not to power on.

All these can be checked on the power supply board.

But more often bad capacitors causes problem on the power supply board. I do not think the power board needs replacement, rather those defective capacitors is causing this issue. Open unit up and take a look at the power supply board.You will probably see one or more electrolytic filter capacitors that are bulged up in the top-not perfectly flat like the others.

The value of these capacitors will be different, most likely they will be somewhere around-820 to 2200uF/25 V( or /10V sometimes)

You can replace them with same values but I would recommend the voltage rating to be higher(like 35V for an original 25V) for reliability purposes.

What happens is,these bulged top capacitors will cause a low and unfiltered DC voltage=main board will malfunction(the relay will keep clicking until the caps are holding enough charge to bring the voltage up over a threshold point).

You can buy these capacitors at any Fry's or Radioshack store or you can order them online at vendors like "mcmelectronics.com"(look for electrolytic capacitors). After replacing these capacitor(capacitors) most likely the normal operation will be restored. Or you can by a refurbished complete power board to save you some stress.

Note: There may be also some other causes for this symptom ,like a defective T con board ,or main board,but the bulged top capacitors are the most common cause for this issue.

If you don't know about TV repairers, take the TV to the nearest repairman to fix the fault for you. Also, note that TV stores a lot of current, so wait a while before opening the TV back cover.

I hope this helps.

Best bet is to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply one by one, noting original capacitance values, and voltages (capacitance values are marked in µF as well as their voltage on their jackets), uprating the value/voltage where necessary, and observing polarity (the negative pole is marked by a stripe down one side of the cap, and replacements should have this opposite the + symbol on the board) when fitting new ones in the PSU.

It may also require replacement of IC1, a 12V 5 pin IC regulator, since this may have been partially damaged by the increased output voltage of the failing electrolytic caps in close proximity to it. This device has its type number (prefixed by STR) on its face, and should be available from Panasonic. Make sure if you order a replacement, that it is for THIS MODEL only, and that it is for the power supply in this unit.

Before you go out and buy a whole bunch of new electrolytic capacitors (available from most electronics stores including Radio Shack etc), take a visual look at the power supply (unplug unit from power point, and carefully remove the power board.) Examine it carefully, and note each capacitor that you can the value/voltage of - write it down, and obtain the closest replacements of each. Don't panic if you can't get a 20V 680µF, use a 25V 1000µF instead.

The total cost depends on how many electrolytic capacitors require replacing, but it is best to replace ALL of them one by one, to ensure reliability of the circuit they are in, in this case, the power supply. Don't worry about the IC regulator or any other parts just yet, do the caps first, as these are not terribly expensive, before taking any further action.

hmmmm....

may I ask how did you know the capacitors are already weak? Do they look bloated and acid just came out?

The value of 820 mfd must not be changed, The value of voltage can be increase at 10 volts maximum!

Usually i go for the parts in my local computer shop where you could get theparts taken from a dead board!

Hope thats helps you out!

Hello, My name is Dave and I can help you fix your Plasma TV. Give me a call. Feel free to give me a call @ 1-503-432-9904 or message me at [email protected]

Thank you!

Dave,

May i know, is it a crt monitor or lcd monitor? If it is a crt monitor, then you can try to check the dry joint on te pcb board especially primary and secondary power supply. After that check the FBT with blue ring tester & cap meter to check their HV cap value.

If it is a LCD Monitor, please check on inverter board and the ccfl lamp too. Please check all the electrolytic cap on lcd monitor pcb board for low esr ohm with blue esr meter. Below is some usefull link for repair lcd monitor and crt monitor:

1) www.FastRepairGuide.com
2) www.fastrepairguide.com/recommend/lcd-monitor-repair/

Hope this help.

To your success,
Kent

Electrolytic capacitor usually blown up the top only in you can still reading the value in the body of the capacitor like the voltage and micro farad example 400V/33UF that's the value of the capacitor

One or more output channels has dc voltage present or the protection circuit itself is at fault. Protection ckt keeps speaker destroying DC from reaching the speakers. Connect a dc meter before the speaker relay(s) to isolate which channel if any, is bad. The protection ckt has a small value electrolytic cap connected to the power supply that needs to be checked. Small so that as soon as power is turned off the relay(s) release. This cap will fail causing this error. Measure the AC ripple across this cap, over a couple volts, replace. Also this error could be caused by a missing supply. Inspect all heat sinked parts and other parts for bad connections.