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Our HCA331FFK seems to be working okay except the inside light (bulb okay) and LEDs are not working. Also the motor seems to be permanently on so there seems to be some sort of problem. Veg in bottom trays have frozen even though control has always been set to 1. Any ideas would be appreciated. Andrew
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These Halogen bulbs are inefficient, and run so hot that they often damage the reflector and bulb socket if they are left on too long. Fortunately there is an easy fix for this. At most stores that sell the exact replacement Halogen bulbs (Lowes, Home Depot and others) you will see a selection of LED bulbs on the same display rack that will fit into the same socket the Halogen bulbs use. It is IMPORTANT that you know the code number stamped on the base of your Halogen bulb AND its voltage because some Halogen bulbs are 12 volts and some are 110 volts. If you can't read the labeling on the bulb, look for the wiring diagram usually glued inside the range hood or look in your owner's manual. Once you know your Halogen bulb's code number, look at the packages that the LED replacements come in. There will be a list of Halogen bulb code numbers that the LEDs are meant to replace. The male sockets on these LED replacements will be shaped just like the sockets on your original Halogen bulbs so they will plug in easily. However, just like LEDs bulbs that replace the old incandescent bulbs in your table lamps or ceiling sockets, they have an electronic section included in there base to run the LEDs and it makes the LED bulb slightly longer than the much simpler Halogen bulb. For my stove hood it meant that the bulb would not quite fit into the reflector in the hood. I had to use a Dremel tool to remove a bit of the reflector to get a proper fit. The LED bulb is just as bright but runs SO much cooler and uses so much less electricity that now I can use the range hood as a night light in the kitchen. I never felt safe doing that with the two Halogen bulbs since they ran so hot that they were burning the fixture that held them in the stainless steel hood and were melting the wiring entering the socket base. This upgrade to your range hood is well worth the effort.
Difficult to guess from your description , which is a bit short of precise detail.
As everything else works, the light must be the only problem.
In the old days such indicator lights were just relatively ordinary *****-in type bulbs similar to those used in battery powered torches. Because of the relatively high current drain and the heat the bulbs produced, often a single light source would be used to perform several tasks and early fibre optic would be used to transmit the light where it was needed. Often there would be mechanical shutters to open and close which effectively switched the light on or off.
Bulbs would sometimes fail but mostly the mechanical components were the first to fail and the most difficult to repair.
In due course the bulbs became so small the best way of mounting them was by soldering directly to the printed circuit boards - cheaper to produce too. Such bulbs remained in use long after the arrival of the light emitting diode or led.
Leds tend to be used for indicating purposes but where the illumination of a dial is needed the old-fashioned bulb will still be found.
Bulbs fail, leds fail though not very often and the circuitry designed to provide the leds with the low voltage they need will also fail sometimes.
The only way forward will be to look inside and measure a few things with a multimeter in order to discover what is wrong.
I have to think the problem is inside the turn signal switch, a poor internal connection. You know the brake signal first goes through the turn switch before it goes to the bulbs. That is why the brake lights and rear turn signal lights share the same filament in the bulb, and the same wire going to those lights. The only difference is the turning side light is affected by the turn signal flasher, causing blinking, while the other side- the non turning side-does not go through the flasher relay, but straight to the bulb from the turn signal switch. Change your turn signal switch and I believe you will solve the problem. Let me know, okay?
I believe you need to switch polarity of these lights. Connect the red wire to ground and the ground wires to the functions you need. Yes, try it, some of these bulbs work on electron theory and so positive and negative are reversed.
Did you check the obvious like blown fuses and dead bulbs? Corrosion in the sockets? RVs do eat bulbs!!!! Replace with LEDs. Expensive, but will be the last time you ever replace it.
Unfortunately, lots of moisture and junk can get up there and kill the bulb. Remove the bulb, inspect it, inspect the connections. Make sure there is no rust and junk in there. If one bulb is working and the other is not, replace the bulb. Believe me, I have seen stranger things happen... but with one working it is not the relay or the fuse.
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