Does not turn on and run - Maytag MDE9700AYW Neptune 174 Electric Dryer

TURN THE KEY TO RUN & OFF 3TIMES BACK TO RUN
PUSH THE PEDAL TOO THE FLOOR & QUIKLY LET OFF
TURN THE KEY TO RUN PRES THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR & QUIKLY LET OFF 3 TIMES TO THE FLOOR BACK OFF TO THE FLOOR BACK OFF TURN THE KEY TO OFF TURN KEY BACK TO RUN SLOWLY PRESS THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR & HOLD IT FOR 10-12 SEC
LET OFF QUIKLY KEY BACK TO OFF TURN BACK TO RUN & SLOWLY TO THE FLOOR HOLD IT 10-12 SEC LET OFF QUIKLY TURN KEY TO OFF THEN START IT SHOULD FIX YOUR PROBLEM

Make sure that the fan motor is being energized. If so, and it does not run then the fan needs to be replaced.

Brad:

Go back to the carburetor adjustment screws and snug them down gently. Do not use force on those screws or you'll damage the needle valve seats. Turn both screws out one and a quarter turns out and start the saw. The motor should stay running.... if not adjust the screws until it stays running. Turn one screw in until you hear the motor start to stall, then turn that screw out just a little bit. turn the other screw in until the saw starts to stall, then turn that screw out a little bit. Now if the saw bogs at full throttle, turn one screw out one quarter turn. See if the saw runs at full throttle... if not turn that same screw in to where it was and try the other screw the same way. If you're good, you can adjust the screw while the saw is running to get the best full throttle run. This is not an exact science, and it takes time and many adjustments to get the saw to idle and run at full throttle. Good luck... and have patience.

It's too lean; not enough fuel mixed with the air. Look for the main mixture screw--it should be a large screw with a spring under it on the carburetor. Run the engine until it's warm.

With the engine running, turn the screw outward (lefty-loosey) about 1/8 turn slowly and see if it improves. Slowly turn the screw back and forth until it runs best with the choke completely off. Then set it 1/8 turn richer (turn screw outward 1/8 turn) than the best position.

Reason for doing this: Conditions change, even the barometric pressure. Small engines run okay if they are a little rich but not if they are a little lean.

Gently turn the needel valves all the way in and the back them out 1 and 1/2 turns each. Then you you make adjust ments depending on how the saw runs. If it runs fine at idel the low jet is fine. If it does not run at high speed adjust the hi jet.

Their is no exact amount of turns if it is running turn screw until motor runs smooth if not running turn in til seated than turn out 1 1/2 turns and start motor than turn usually out a little till engine runs smooth

Hi murban001,
From what you describe, it is running lean, and you should adjust your carburetor. Obviously if running with the choke it has more power, turn the high speed mixture screw out (counterclockwise) with engine running 1/8 turn at a time until it runs better. With engine stopped turn that high speed mixture screw in or (clockwise) until lightly seated,( but remember the screw setting before doing this). This is to check how much it is turned out. The high speed mixture screw should not be adjusted less than 1 turn out from a lightly seated position to prevent running too lean, as that could damage the engine because of overheating. The adjustment process is to turn the H screw in until it just starts to run bad now turn it out until it starts to run bad, adjust the screw in the middle of those 2 positions to get the ideal setting, a bit richer is even better to help cool the engine. The gas helps to cool the engine, but some people don't think of that as being the case. When you accelerate the engine, if it sort of misses or hesitates turn the L or idle speed mixture screw out a bit, adding more gas to the mixture help with acceleration. Hope this is helpful. Regards and good luck. Denis.

One fuse runs all your lights. Have you checked the bulbs? If they are set up for turn signals and running lights, they will have two filaments, one for the running lights and one for the turn signals. I'm pretty sure your running lights and turn signals are controlled by the turn signal cancelling unit. There is the chance that someone disconnected them. The older bikes didn't have running lights on them and that's how you could tell a Harley from the rice burners, not running lights. Just the headlight.

Good Luck
Steve

The blue wire is the wire to supply voltage to your "running" lamp filament in the buld. Take your bulb out and look at the back side of it. It should have two round connectors on it. One is for the turn signal and one is for the running light. The "running light" should be on when you start the bike. When you turn the turn signal on on that side, the turn signsl filament should light up along with the running light filament.

With the bike running and headlight on, all four turn signals should lit as "running lights". Earlier models did not have the "running lights' on them. Now, when you turn the turn signals on either side the bulbs should blink much brighter. If you press and hold both the right and left turn signal switches, you're four way flasher signal should come on. If you still can't figure it out, Drop me a line at [email protected] and I will scan a wiring diagram in for you and send it to you. Good Luck Steve

likely a bad earth wire, it can also be a duel filament bulb with one filament gone shorting to the other circuit