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go to autozone rent the free tool called a block tester buy the fluid for it (about $8.00 us)drive the car make sure the resivour is about 3 inches down so you dont suck any fluid into block tester. pour blue fluid into block tester put it in antifreeze resavour. squeeze bulb sucking air from resouivour for up to 2 minutes if fluid turns yellow your head gaskets are leaking. I think you may find this to be your problem
Could be either. Or it could be a hose. Take to any radiator shop and have your system pressure checked. If no radiator shop in your area, take to a trusted repair shop and ask them to do a pressure test for you. A pressure test is a device you put on your radiator in place of the cap. They are then able to pump up the pressure and visually check for leaks.
Did the engine overheat before the water pump was replaced? If so, you may have a warped cylinder head and/or blown head gasket.
Was the radiator full of rusty-colored liquid before you flushed it? If so, your radiator is probably restricted with rust deposits in the cooling tubes. Flushing WILL NOT get this stuff out. The radiator MUST be replaced if this is the case. Your heater core is probably not in real good shape either, so you should be expecting some heating problems this winter.
If the above is not the correct answer, then you should check to make sure the temperature gauge is not "LYING" to you. This could be caused by a defective gauge, a bad temperature sending unit, or faulty wiring.
The way to check this is with a scan tool that can read engine data and an infrared thermometer. While reading the coolant temperature data from the computer, check the cylinder head temperature with the infrared thermomometer. The readings you get should be within 5 degrees (F) of each other. If the computer data does not match the thermometer within the 5 degrees, then the sending unit for the computer should be replaced.
Then look at the gauge to see if the gauge reading is appropriate to the temperature readings that you took. Normal operating temperature is between 190 and 230 degrees. This should place the gauge at slightly to the right of center to about 5/8thsof the way to HOT. If the readings you took are OK and the gauge is reading higher than this, then you should try replacing the temperature sending unit for the gauge and see if that fixes the problem.
Please note that there are TWO temp sending units: One for the gauge and one for the computer.
#1.airlock in system....undo a heater hose clip to bleed.#2 thermostat jammed..replace.#3..water pump shot..replace.#4..radiator clogged..backward flush the system..
Hi. Here's the procedure if you are going to replace the radiator fan.
Things You'll Need:
New radiator
Container for old coolant
Set of socket wrenches
Ford disconnect tools or crescent wrenches
Flush treatment
Coolant
1
Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent damage to any electrical parts. Open the drain **** on the lower rear of the radiator, remove the radiator cap and drain the coolant into an empty container. Remove the overflow tube from the radiator and the coolant recovery bottle.
2
Unbolt the shroud with a 10 mm socket wrench and position it over the fan, out of the way. For a 5.0 liter engine on a 1991 through 2001 Explorer, also disconnect the electric fan wires and remove the radiator shroud. For a 4.6 liter SOHC engine, remove the A/C tubing from the retainer clips on top of the radiator.
3
Use a Ford model specific disconnect tool to remove the transmission coolant lines on an automatic transmission. You can use two crescent wrenches as a substitute for the disconnect tool, just be careful not to twist the lines.
4
Remove the four bolts holding the radiator in place with a 10 mm socket wrench. Place a piece of cardboard on the side of the radiator facing the engine as you remove it, to prevent damage to any engine components.
5
Crawl under your Explorer and take the cooling fan out for 2002 and newer models. Again, you need some Ford specific disconnect tools to do this. Remove the fan bolts as well as the shroud, followed by the 4 radiator push pins. Also remove the A/C condenser brackets near the rear of the radiator, and wire the A/C condenser in place to keep it from getting damaged.
6
Remove the radiator from the engine compartment. Models made between 1991 and 2001 will let you lift the radiator out by itself. For a 2002 or newer model, pull the radiator up, rest it on the wall of the engine compartment, and separate the A/C condenser from the radiator.
7
Install the new radiator in the engine compartment. Once you have it resting in place, reattach all components in reverse order. Use a flush treatment, then replace the coolant. Turn the car on and let the car idle, with the heater on and the radiator cap removed, until it reaches normal operating temperature. Top off your coolant as needed.
Open the petcock on the bottom of the radiator and allow the old coolant to drain.
Close the petcock.
To refill you will first fill the degas container to the cold fill range, leave the cap off the canister. Turn all of the heater controls to warm and turn fan to full. Idle the engine until the thermostat opens. Top off the coolant and put the cap back on. Idle at 3000 RPM for several seconds and then idle again for a minute or so. Check the level and then repeat this 4 times, or until heat is coming from the front and rear heat units.
If you want to flush the system you will have to remove the thermostat and hook up your flush system to the radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Follow the instructions on your flush system then put the thermostat back in. Follow the instructions above to refill.
I recommend flushing the radiator thoroughly if not done recently. there seems to be some sort of blockage in the radiator at this time. if you get lots of metal fragments that are flushed out during this flush, i will then recommend a rebuild on the radiator or replacement of the radiator. make sure the cooling fans are cycling on time as well.
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