Logitech z680 blows fuses

Here is a list of radio wiring harness wire color codes and what they do. I have given both with and W/O Bose.

Nissan Maxima Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Pink/Blue
Radio Ignition Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue/Black
Radio Ground Wire: Vehicle Chassis
Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Blue
Radio Dimmer Wire: Red/Orange
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: Black/Red
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/White
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Brown
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/White
Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Green
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Pink
1997 Nissan Maxima with Bose Stereo Wiring Diagram W/Bose
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink/Blue
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue
Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Blue
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red/Yellow
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Black/Red
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Green/White
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Each speaker has its own amplifier located at each speaker.
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue

Hi there,

You may find your Sony unit has the fuse built-in to the back of the player - hence, modern units no longer require an in-line fuse in the wiring.
yellow = 12v constant or battery power
red = 12v switched or ignition power
black = 12v ground or chassis ground
blue = power antenna turn on
blue/white = amplifier turn on
white = left front speaker +
white/black left front speaker -
gery = right front speaker +
grey/black= right front speaker -
green= left rear speaker +
green/black left rear speaker -
purple = right rear speaker +
purple/black= right rear speaker -
lt blue= cell phone mute input
Hope this helps...

Hi, I assume you are powering regular speakers in the car, right?
The amp needs a power cable from the fuse box or battery.
This cable should be about 6 gage and should have a fuse of about 150 amps.
You will need a ground cable, also 6 gage and connect it tightly to the chassis under the dash.
Disconnect all speaker wires from the head unit, and use a pair of RCA cables to connect the head unit preamp outputs to the amplifier.
Also from the head unit, connect the blue wire to the "turn on" terminal of the amplifier.
Finally, connect your speaker wires to the amplifier.
Your speakers should be rated for at least 500 Watts, or you will blow them with this amp.

Please let me know if you have questions and thanks for using FixYa.

It's probably trashed now.

Disconnect the yellow wire from the thermostat and tape off the end. Turn the power back on. If the fuse blows, it is not in your wire nor the compressor contactor. If the fuse does not blow, turn off the power, reconnect the wire, and replace the fuse. Then, disconnect the wire from the compressor contactor and tape it off. Turn the power back on. If the fuse blows, it will eliminate the compressor contactor coil and will likely be a "short" in the wire itself. The yellow wire goes from your T-stat to your air handler and from your air handler, it goes to the oudoor unit's compressor contactor.

yellow to yellow main power wire
red to red key wire
black to black ground
speaker wires are green purple for rear speakers and white and grey for front speakers solid wire color is power and black lines is ground
orange is dimmer switch you wont need it
blue wire is for power anntenna your car shouldn't have it and blue with white stripe is remote wire if you have an amp it will shut off your amp when hooked up any other wire unnessary for your car some head units need a anntenna adapter to work good luck. remember ground before anything and disconnect the battery so you don't blow the fuse

Unfortunately I have the same problem. As an electronic engineer I suspect that the power supply part of the unit is damaged. I opened up the module (don' t try it, its a little bit tricky since there is a type of glue around the silver bezel, after you remove the 4 screws from the front holes) and did some quick static measurements with a multimeter, so far no luck. Since I am still in warranty I will try to replace the item. Hint: protect your electronic equipment with ups or surge protection devices.

2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fusebox for switched power.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/White
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the center console.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
If that dosnt match with your vehicle try this tip, 1st always find your speaker wires first,Since this is the most tedious part, its better to get those out of the way, 2nd thing Disconnect the battery of the vehicle so you don't blow fuses for the head unit, 3rd, strip back all of the wires that are available to you. Its better to grab the all together and cut them all an equal length to make it neat. 4th
Once you have all your wires stripped back - Grab any single wire. Hold it against a terminal on the battery and one by one go through and tap every other wire against the other terminal of the battery until you hear a "pop". When you hear a speaker popping, you have correctly identified the wires that run directly to it. If on the first attempt at popping a speaker you don't find one, pick up another wire and repeat the process. They will eventually come, and the more you identify, the fewer wires you have to mess with, You will need these Items,You'll need some wire strippers, a digital multimeter, electrical tape,9 volt battery

Hello Thimo
First things First:
1) The only thing sincerely you have to do in this cases, if you yet have warranty, is RMS the speakers, for a new one, or repair.
other than this, is a internal board power for your speakers.
good luck
Open SKY

I used to have one of those amps also (nice amp btw) Did you try another fuse of the same size?
Is it blowing fuses everytime you put one in or did it just blow that one fuse ?
Is the conection on the battery solid and clean of corrosion build up? Because that is a good amp and if wired properly shouldnt blow out or anything and so if the speaker is not blown then maybe connection is weak somewhere? I would try disconnecting the speakers from it and try a new fuse and if it does not blow the new fuse than amp is ok? and if it does blow the new fuse right away then there must be a short somewhere in the wire or the amp. then disconnect the fuse again and reconnect the speakers and if the fuse blows with the speakers connected but doesnt blow with them disconnected then you know it is a blown speaker causing the problem.

Just currious but what size fuse do you have connected at the battery?