Dishwasher Dishlex DX302WB No Hot Water

Yes same here water not heating in our dx302 watched video and followed steps and dishwasher now works perfect. Thanks heaps Yes same here water not heating in our dx302 watched video and followed steps and dishwasher now works perfect. Thanks heaps

Had my Dishlex 13 years then it stopped heating the water. Only noticed because the dishes were coming out wet with soap residue.
Followed this solution and after the 2nd attempt it worked.
I tried heating each of the connection points first but a couple were jut too dry.
2nd attempt I added enough new solder to each connection and then it worked.
Thanks for this! Had my Dishlex 13 years then it stopped heating the water. Only noticed because the dishes were coming out wet with soap residue. Followed this solution and after the 2nd attempt it worked. I tried heating each of the connection points first but a couple were jut too dry. 2nd attempt I added enough new solder to each connection and then it worked. Thanks for this!

Had this same issue in model ESL4131. Fixed it according to instruction and now works fine.
Thanks for the hint! Had this same issue in model ESL4131. Fixed it according to instruction and now works fine. Thanks for the hint!

Could anyone kindly share a picture showing exactly where I need to solder? The pictures shown so far are only showing the burnt track and not how t should be fixed. Thanks! Could anyone kindly share a picture showing exactly where I need to solder? The pictures shown so far are only showing the burnt track and not how t should be fixed. Thanks!

I didnt use any wire just re soldered the burnt joint and it now works fine. I didnt use any wire just re soldered the burnt joint and it now works fine.

Ditto... for my dishwasher, a Westinghouse SB907, (which I've had for just over 10 years and up until yesterday, had performed very relliably), but the PCB is exactly the same as the one discussed in this thread. I removed the PCB and on initial examination, it appeared to be fine - no evidence of burning, nor any obvious dry soldered joints. However, bearing in mind what I'd read on this forum, where one or two others reported the same, I decided to re-solder all of the pins to the relay, as well as the beeper's pins (only 2 pins), which had gone silent (stopped beeping) about a year after I bought the machine. The machine now heats up and dries AND the beeper works again.. It is too early to tell yet if this repair was 100% sucessful, as the problem with mine was intermittent - i.e. it worked OK most of the time, but sometimes no heat. Last night was the last straw and decided to either replace te machine with a new one, but see if there was any DIY solution first. There was of course such a solution: right HERE on this fixya.com thread... I must admit that I'm a bit worried that there are other dry or unreliable soldered joints on the PCB, as re-soldering the beeper's pins proved it beyond doubt, so now wonder if something else will stop functioning for the same reason, but if so, I'll at least know what to do and how to do it - it's not a big job or a difficult one. If I'd not found this forum, I'd probably have wasted an awful lot of money (on a new dishwasher that I don't need) or, still have a malfunctioning, white-elephant in the space in my kitchen, reserved for a (fully functional) dishwasher! Thanks all of you - you have taken a big load off my mind... Ditto... for my dishwasher, a Westinghouse SB907, (which I've had for just over 10 years and up until yesterday, had performed very relliably), but the PCB is exactly the same as the one discussed in this thread. I removed the PCB and on initial examination, it appeared to be fine - no evidence of burning, nor any obvious dry soldered joints. However, bearing in mind what I'd read on this forum, where one or two others reported the same, I decided to re-solder all of the pins to the relay, as well as the beeper's pins (only 2 pins), which had gone silent (stopped beeping) about a year after I bought the machine. The machine now heats up and dries AND the beeper works again.. It is too early to tell yet if this repair was 100% sucessful, as the problem with mine was intermittent - i.e. it worked OK most of the time, but sometimes no heat. Last night was the last straw and decided to either replace te machine with a new one, but see if there was any DIY solution first. There was of course such a solution: right HERE on this fixya.com thread... I must admit that I'm a bit worried that there are other dry or unreliable soldered joints on the PCB, as re-soldering the beeper's pins proved it beyond doubt, so now wonder if something else will stop functioning for the same reason, but if so, I'll at least know what to do and how to do it - it's not a big job or a difficult one. If I'd not found this forum, I'd probably have wasted an awful lot of money (on a new dishwasher that I don't need) or, still have a malfunctioning, white-elephant in the space in my kitchen, reserved for a (fully functional) dishwasher! Thanks all of you - you have taken a big load off my mind...

Resoldering the dry joints on my heating relay on the PCB worked perfectly for me too. I thought I was up for a new heating element or possibly a new dishwasher. Thank you so much for this thread. My Westinghouse SB907 is now fully functional again. Resoldering the dry joints on my heating relay on the PCB worked perfectly for me too. I thought I was up for a new heating element or possibly a new dishwasher. Thank you so much for this thread. My Westinghouse SB907 is now fully functional again.

Thanks for the photo, have taken my PCB out , now soldering and hope it works! Thanks for the photo, have taken my PCB out , now soldering and hope it works!

Dishwasher now working again, perfectly, thanks again! Dishwasher now working again, perfectly, thanks again!

had the same problem and this worked so happy had the same problem and this worked so happy

If you want to try and differentiate between a faulty element or relay: the large "orange and blue" connector has neutral (blue) and the heating element (orange), and is switched via the relay on the control board. 240V across those wires means the relay is off or the track on the board has blown. ~3-4 V across means the relay closed and a reasonable current is flowing (i.e. the relay and PCB tracks have a small resistance); ~0V across would mean no current is flowing and the element is stuffed. If you want to try and differentiate between a faulty element or relay: the large "orange and blue" connector has neutral (blue) and the heating element (orange), and is switched via the relay on the control board. 240V across those wires means the relay is off or the track on the board has blown. ~3-4 V across means the relay closed and a reasonable current is flowing (i.e. the relay and PCB tracks have a small resistance); ~0V across would mean no current is flowing and the element is stuffed.

Great help followed steps and soldered the burnt connection worked for a few weeks but now it has the same problem again. Is it simply just resoldering or does something need to be changed that is causing the burn in the switchboard? Great help followed steps and soldered the burnt connection worked for a few weeks but now it has the same problem again. Is it simply just resoldering or does something need to be changed that is causing the burn in the switchboard?