I have a Microsoft SindeWinder Precision Pro Part No. X03-57540, Product I.D. 85791-579-3326194-10000, which the cable got cut off.
Could anyone tell me how to rewire from the ciruit board to the gameport connector.
There are approx 10 wires - that includes the one for ground.
The colours are:
Black
Red
Light Blue
possibly Brown or Purple
Blue
Green
Yellow
White
Bare wire in Heat shrink tubing - ground ?
Grey
This is the color code:
DB-15, Male, missing pins: 5,6,8,9,13,15
Wires color code
Red:
Pin 1
Pin 1:
Red
Yellow:
Pin 14
Pin 2:
Purple
Green:
Pin 10
Pin 3:
Grey
Black:
Pin 4
Pin 4:
Black
Purple:
Pin 2
Pin 7:
Dark blue
Dark Blue:
Pin 7
Pin 10:
Green
Light Blue:
Pin 12
Pin 11:
White
Grey:
Pin 3
Pin 12:
Light Blue
White:
Pin 11
Pin 14:
Yellow
source: Microsoft Sidewinder FFB game port disassembled
Try to lok at this LINK, i'll get back to you while arrange this thing for you
`jack
Since its very risky and very tough for a person who is not having a knowledge of electronics....to be able to repair it you should know soldering ..a elecronic device know as soldering machine comes through which you can solder all the braked wires.....if you remember where the wires were before, you can do it..just buy a soldering machine ,flux ,and soder wire to fix the wire ..
a flux is a chemical cleaning agent which facilitates soldering, brazing, and welding by removing oxidation from the metals to be joined.
Soldering is a process in which two or more metal items are joined together by melting and flowing a filler metal into the joint, the filler metal having a relatively low melting point. Soft soldering is characterized by the melting point of the filler metal, which is below 400 °C.[1] The filler metal used in the process is called solder.
Soldering is distinguished from brazing by use of a lower melting-temperature filler metal; it is distinguished from welding
by the base metals not being melted during the joining process. In a
soldering process, heat is applied to the parts to be joined, causing
the solder to melt and be drawn into the joint by capillary action and to bond to the materials to be joined by wetting action.
After the metal cools, the resulting joints are not as strong as the
base metal, but have adequate strength, electrical conductivity, and
water-tightness for many use 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It will be highly appreciated if you could take a minute and provide your feedback..
May i know on what kind of circuit board you want to connect the wiring..
thank you
Wiring color are not always the same they may change even within same model.
You need to buy a tester, like this Handheld Mini Digital Multimeter,
and find out functions for each cable.
A mistake at this point can result in damage to the computer
power supply or the game card. The controller cable must have a 15-pin male
connector on one end and bare wire ends on the other. A male plug is one
with a hollow indentation filled with small pins. The outer jacket of the
cable must be stripped sufficiently so that the wires can reach across the
required span. A VOM or continuity checker is used to trace the wires out
to the corresponding pin of the connector. The wires are color coded so one
probe of the VOM is connected to a wire and the other is touched to a pin
until continuity is achieved. The following list should be printed and the
wire color noted in the appropriate column as it is found. The plug should
have very small numbers imprinted adjacent to each pin. If it does not, the
diagram below can be used to determine the pin number.
PIN ASSIGNMENT ON CONTROLLER CONNECTOR
(Only the pins shown in boldface italics are required
in this project)
PIN #
DESCRIPTION
WIRE COLOR
1
+5 Volts>
2
Button 1
3
X-Axis, Stick 1
4
Ground
5
Ground
6
Y-Axis, Stick 1
7
Button 2
8
+5 Volts
9
+5 Volts
10
Button 3
11
X-Axis, Stick 2
12
Ground
13
Y-Axis, Stick 2
14
Button 4
15
+5 Volts
After the correct wires are determined, wiring
can begin. The first thing that must be done is to isolate the unused ground
(pin 5) and +5 volt wires (pins 8, 9 and 15). If the wires can be exposed
at the male connector end, they can be cut off at the connector. Otherwise,
any method possible must be used to isolate the ends of the wires to ensure
that a ground and +5 volt wire can contact each other and short. Shorting
ground to +5 volts can destroy the computer power supply. The wire end
of the cable can be routed through the antenna hole or any other point the
seems convenient. The +5 volt wire from pin one can be routed through the
master switch to allow the power to be turned off to the controller while
it is not in use. The use of the trainer switch as a select or fire button
is optional. There are three wires on the trainer switch. The VOM is used
to find the two wires that have continuity when the trainer switch is pressed
and the other wire is removed. The ground (pin 4) is connected to one of
the remaining wires of the trainer switch and the wire from pin 2 on the
plug is connected to the other. These connections should be taped to avoid
having them touch a +5 volt wire. The +5 volt line will be connected the
pots so efforts must be taken to assure that no ground wire can make contact
with a pot.
Any wires that are not used must be removed or isolated.
Damn i think you need another sidewinder to find out the coloring / connections.
il open my controller and see if its similiar or not.
Sorry for the slow reply
I decided not to break my old joystick open even if i don't / cant use it.
This is a general pinout
1
+5V
OUT
+5 VDC
2
/B1
IN
Button 1
3
X1
IN
Joystick 1 - X
4
GND
-
Ground
5
GND
-
Ground
6
Y1
IN
Joystick 1 - Y
7
/B2
IN
Button 2
8
+5V
OUT
+5 VDC
9
+5V
OUT
+5 VDC
10
/B3
IN
Button 3
11
X2
IN
Joystick 2 - X
12
GND
-
Ground
13
Y2
IN
Joystick 2 - Y
14
/B4
IN
Button 4
15
+5V
OUT
+5 VDC
more info can be found here
http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/PC_G...
PIN NAME DIR DESCRIPTION
1 +5V OUT +5 VDC
2 /B1 IN Button 1
3 X1 IN Joystick 1 - X
4 GND - Ground
5 GND - Ground
6 Y1 IN Joystick 1 - Y
7 /B2 IN Button 2
8 +5V OUT +5 VDC
9 +5V OUT +5 VDC
10 /B3 In Button 3
11 X2 IN Joystick 2 - X
12 GND - Ground
13 Y2 IN Joystick 2 - Y
14 /B4 IN Button 4
15 +5v OUT +5 VDC
Basicly thats the basic pinout
all you need to figure out what wire is what.
And connect them accordingly.
this might also be helpful
http://atrey.karlin.mff.cuni.cz/~vojtech...
If your cable was cut from the middle, then you just need to connect the same color to the same color.
After haveing a look inside mine, I don't have that many wires connected to the circuitboard. Go with ginkos solution I don't have a similiar model to find the wireing from.
well I can tell you a few things maybe they might be some use.
pin 1 - +5vdc connected to circuitboard, x and y. ground?
pin 2 - red, circuitboard
pin 3 - joystick x
pin 4 - Yellow circuitboard
pin 5 - seems to be not used
pin 6 - joystick y
pin 7 - Blue circuitboard
....................
Our joystick again are most likely difrent I would recommend agains following my advice before makeing sure .
Go with ginkos advice. Good luck. IF you really want to know the rest about my old gravis pinout let me know. But they are most likely difrent.
x and y might be reversed.
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Usually answered in minutes!
You need to open your joystick and from the circuit board use a multimeter from the cable wire to the joystick (game port) to find this wiring detail out.
I do not have the original cable which had the gameport connector.
I have had a look at the link.
I do have some knowledge about electronics.
The Joystick circuit board does say "64-5851B"
I think it is this one
This part copied from the link
Precision Pro 1995
Learning from their past mistakes, Microsoft came up with the SideWinder Precision Pro, correcting the ergonomic issues while fixing some of the electrical issues from the 3D Pro and adding some new features. Ditching the geometric design, the Precision Pro dumped the 3D Pro's stick for one far more ergonomic, correcting the biggest complaint about the original 3D Pro. Microsoft also gave the rest of the Precision Pro a more rounded design, replacing the rectangular base buttons with more rounded buttons, the slider-based throttle with a wheel-based throttle, and the base itself was made more rounded. The Precision Pro also added a shift button to the base, doubling the number of possible button combinations.
For its electronics, the Precision Pro featured a refined hybrid system, resolving some of the hardware compatibility issues with the 3D Pro. However, with the widespread introduction of USB in consumer computers shortly after the Precision Pro was released, Microsoft soon re-released the joystick in a USB-compatible form. The revised joystick still featured a gameport connector but had additional circuitry for interfacing with USB, and was bundled with a USB converter (original Precision Pros remain incompatible with this converter[30]. A user made converter exists though[1]). The creation of the USB converter bypassed the problems with the analog gameport entirely, and as a result became the true solution to the electrical problems. However, due to a flaw in the design of the Precision Pro, in rare cases the stick would build up a static charge in its electronics and require either a complex process to discharge that was not always successful, or simply needed to stay unpowered for a number of hours to slowly discharge on its own[31].
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