Our freezer is a self-defrosting (or frost free) freezer...but lately a lot of frost has been building up and driving mom crazy! there is the 3 switch inside, but don't know what that is for. help

Going to have to assume a lot of things... because you put no make or model... (such as self defrosting).

After you have checked that there is NOT excessive FROST BUILD UP (prevents air flow & causes same symptoms...
(defrost issue: different trouble ... comment me back)

Without any mention of EXCESSIVE FROST (which would indicate poor door seal/alignment...
(Not DEFROST FAILURE (dry defrost pan)...

That leaves us with your EVAP FAN...

There are a couple of reasons evaporator fans fail:

(you just eliminated old age in your question... "year old")

- Defective is still a possibility (replace)

- Ice/frost blocked (Full manual DEFROST)

- Physical blockage ((inspect: usually wire or POOR install.

Check your manufacturer's parts list and shop around for the BEST PRICE... There NO variances in quality (just price).

GOOD freezers work because of excellent air flow...!!

And ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TAKE PICURES & REMOVE POWER BEFORE fiddling with every appliance.

Good luck...
(I check in daily... Please do comment if you need me)

Carnac the Magnificent

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video

If this is a self defrosting model make sure that you don't have frost build up on the back wall of the freezer causing the air not to circulate like it should. If you do have frost build up other items will eventually start thawing as well. If this is the case you have a defrost problem.

If this is not a self defrosting model then make sure it does not need defrosting.

You normally will notice ice cream being soft before you notice other things thawing.

Also make sure the door is shutting good and you may try putting the ice cream in a different location.

replace defrost timer pcb.

HI, It is a big job to recharge a unit. If it need recharged, it means there is a leak. Do you have any cooling at all? If this a self defrosting freezer? If it is self defrosting, make sure there isn't any frost building up on the evaporator panel.

Vic

Your defrost timer, switch or circuit board is probably shot or it would be defrosting.

Use a fridge / freezer thermometer to tell if temperture high (it should be 0 F plus or minus 5 degrees) to determine if it is too high - this is normal if frost builds up but will get worse unless repaired.

It could be the door gasket. It could also be that the fridge needs a good defrosting. (especially if it is an older fridge)

When I bought my house I had the same problem with the fridge that came with the house. I assumed the previous owner had been defrosting it regularly, which he had not.

Eventually I decided to try a full defrost, and my fridge now works like new.

Defected DEFROST HEATER can cause frost build up on the panel at the back of the freezer,and freezer stop cooling and ice frozen on unit so air could not flow to refrigerator side.Water will coming out caused of unbalanced freezing,and causing the flooding of water in the floor. You must change this defroster heater assembly so it will works normal again..


Hope this may help;

Regards,
VOTIT

I need more information. If this is a frost free freezer with an internal fan I need to know what the freezer temp is. If a manuel defrost it is supposed to frost up. You defrost it 2 - 3 times a year when the frost builds up over 3/4 inch. If it frosts up faster than this check to see if the door is sealing all the way around. There should be no gaps or cracks in the gasket.

This will not cause a freon leak and it is possible that the door was left open, but to be certain that you don't have a defrost issue, follow the guide below to diagnose any problems. Also the warm walls are normal during compressor run times.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
If your freezer cools but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer, read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.

In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up. And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.

Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.

An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually" defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.
  
  
• The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"