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Generator engine runs fine but only 2 volts show on meter instead of 120 volts. Wont run a flashlight. Model PC0525302.02 Just stopped sending power to outlets even with engine running. All outlets dead
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If the generator has been sitting for a long time or was shut off with the load connected it has likely lost the residual magnetism that is required to excite the winding. This is a common problem. Always disconnect the load from the generator before stopping the engine!
The generator needs to be flashed. There are several was to achieve this, but safest would be to use an electric drill.
Connect an older style portable 120 volt drill to the running generator.
Make sure the drill is in forward not reverse
With the switch depressed rotate by hand the chuck of the drill in reverse
careful, the generator will flash, power up and rotate the drill in the forward direction..
Hope this helps?
Careful the generator will flash the windings and power up the drill
there are too emergency stop sensors on generators
one is over load
the other is low oil level in the sump (Low oil pressure)
That sensor is known to trigger and activate the emergency stop so check it out after you check the oil level in the sump
the generator consists of 2 120volt windings that run in parallel for 120 volts and in series for 240, check the change over switch make sure a wire hasn't fallen off, if you have a multi meter check both coils have the same resistance
This generator is a 5KW model. This means it can supply up to 5000 watts of power, total. Not all devices list the watts they need to be provided - instead these devices list the power they need as volts and amps. This can make it hard to determine what the actual watt requirements are for the device.
Overly simplified, watts is equal volts times amps (watts = volts x amps). A single 120 volt light bulb that uses .833 amps consumes 100 watts. If you checked a regular 100 watt light bulb with an ammeter, you'd find it does indeed draw .833 amps.
Working the formula a different way, we can learn how many amps this 5000 watt generator can supply at 120 volts, too. If all the loads you need to connect to this generator are 120 volt types, that means the total amount of amps the generator can supply is 5000 watts / 120 volts = 41 amps purely resistive loads (like a toaster or light bulb) maximum under ideal conditions. There is never a time when ideal actually happens, and not all loads are purely resistive - many are inductive. Inductive loads are motors (like your A/C), fluorescent lamps, computer power supplies, etc. - so figure more like around 30 amps total instead.
If you try to connect devices that require more than 30 - 35 amps, the generator will probably have problems trying to supply this load for any longer that a short length of time. Additionally, motors like those in A/C compressors draw significantly more power when first starting and can cause the problem you are describing. Try running the generator with loads other then the A/C to see how well it can supply the load(s). Or try running only 1 A/C unit and other non-A/C loads.
What I'm trying to tell you is that you may need to do some active load management to be sure that you aren't trying to get more power out of the generator than it is capable of supplying. You may need additional generators or swap this one to a larger size to handle the load properly and safely.
Please understand that the generator produces power from fuel with an engine wheras the invertor is one which genrerates power from a stored battery using the principle of frequency switching a DC source to induct and produce AC.
Now you can have an uninterupted power supply setting with the invertor backed up by the generator so that when the battery voltage goes down you can start and charge the invertor and also supply the extra energy .
the ratings of both must also be considered.
Most low voltage conditions on generators are simply due to a low engine rpm. Most modern generators are 2- pole windings. So your engine rpm should theoretically run @ 3600 rpm. which will produce 120/240 volts @ 60 HZ. In actuality You want to set your rpm's @ Approx. 3720rpm no load. About 62.5 Hz. Without getting to technical this will give you your desired 120/240 volts loaded. Hope this helps.
As long as your appliances are working properly I wouldn't worry. A 10V drop from the norm is not that crazy and certainly not abnormal. If it drops down to 205 or 200 then I would worry. I'm not familiar with the internal components of a home generator but I would imagine they are not as precise as the machines the power companies use. And when you look at it from a phase point of view its even less of an issue. There are 110-120V per single phase and 220-240V double phase. So on each phase your only dropping 5V out of that range. And as far as the needle jumping, again not very precise, and it will probably move even more while its generating. If the voltage does happen to drop more check for a loose neutral wire, that will often cause crazy voltages, but so far I see nothing to worry about.
Double check your brush istallation. positive side toward rotor bearing, if you put 12 vdc directly into brush pack and check with a meter at the 120 vac outlet and have low or no voltage, you may have no resistance in your rotor slip rings, excitor & main windings also need a resistance check. 12.6-16.7 ohms (rotor) 2.26-2.80 ohms (excitation) .26-.32/.28-.35 main or power windings. Note: unit running when appling 12 volts to brush pack. 2-5 second only, ( This test tells you the rotor & stotor are ok )
sounds like you need to "flash the field". This means you've lost you excitation voltage for the generator to produce electricity. In most cases you need to get a 9volt battery and connect it to 2 & 6 inside the generator. They are Blue & Red wires, but they are not the only blue & red ones there. The generator should be running and the battery should only be connected for about 5 seconds. This is very dangerous because of all the high voltage and democrats.
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