Bottom freezer is fine but top refrig. is warm. Have vacumned bottom front coils, unit less than 2 years old. Any suggestions, other than calling repair? thanks.

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.The defrost timer is on bottom behind the front kick plate. Open freezer door remove lower grille or kick plate and you will see it.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

You either have a blockage inbetween the freezer and fridge or your condensor coils are filthy.

If your refrig is 10 yrs old or les , then yes , this is normal . It pulls air in from the back over the condensor coils then compressor and out thru the front . The refrig should be 3-4 inches from the wall so it can pull fresh air thru . If any closer , the hotter the air will be causing the coils and compressor to be hotter than designed for therefore causing less life for the refrig . The WARM air is good meaning the refrig is cooling properly .

Either the fan which cools the coils and compressor , behind the rear panel behind the refrig , is not working ( or something is caught in the fan blade ) , or , the coils under the refrig need cleaning badly .

Dirty coils not likely the problem .
Open the freezer door .( Behind the back panel ( inside the freezer ) is the evaporator fan motor . ) Push in on the freezer door switch , and listen for the fan to come on . Sometimes , the fan will stay on , even if the door is open . Do you hear the fan ? If not , then the main control board , behind the refrig , behind an 8 " X 10 " panel , is probably bad . If you do hear the fan , then you are having a defrost problem . Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel .
Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp , and , when to cycle off , due to set temperature reached .

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

just called in a sears technician 150 dollar bill that was an easy fix. he says my bottom freezer kenmore fridge with warm fridge problem was due to the pathway being blocked by ice and garbage which is common with these fridges. he took off cover from the fridge bottom and poured boiling water down to the freezer. try that before you replace any parts or call in a tech. next time im getting a top freezer because the blower is on the top not in the middle with the bottom freezers and thus more problem prone.

replace the fan as quickly as possible it may be shorting and causing damage to your control board,

check freezer for frost build up and if FAN is blowing, check condenser, make sure its clean, and fan blowing, check vents in refrig. make sure no blockage, controls should be in the middle setting, make sure u didnt turn up freezer control cutting air supply to refrigertor side should be 1/2 feel vent coming from freezer see if you feel any air coming in to refrig.