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Left input clips at all input levels and from several different sources,
I am sure the dip switches are correct, i am running an 8 ohm 2 speaker system they should never clip. The amp was fine for 4 months now it clips all the time
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No. It is optimized to deliver 600 watts onto either 4 or 2 ohm loads but will decrease to 300 watts into 8 ohms. However that equates to only about a 3dB difference in output level from the sub. 3dB is the smallest amount of volume difference the human ear can pick up. A doubling of volume requires a9dB increase which requires a tripling of input power.
Sorry I did not use the video out RCA cables. My audio RCA cables worked fine... I ran them to my JBL amplifier through a conversion adapter. I did not run it direct to the amp.. I used Metra TYTO-01 03-08 Toyota Vehicles Harness for JBL SYS (Ebay item 160560648718) and it worked great.
Here is the wiring color coding that I found online:
Code on stereo for steering wheel is 0000
2011 Toyota Camry Car Audio Installation Diagram
F6 Pins:
1.Light Green (LG) Front Right (FR) plus (+) speakers source
2.Pink (P) Front Left (FL) plus (+) speakers
3.Grey (GR) Accessory power [switched on with the ignition switch] +12v
4.Light Blue with Yellow Stripe (L-Y) always +12v [radio memory]
5.Light Blue (L) Front Right (FR) minus (-) speakers return
6.Violet (V) Front Left (FR) minus (-) speakers return
7.Brown (BR) Ground (GND) radio ground
8.Orange (O) Antenna Amplifier (ANT) power source
9. No Connection
10.Green (G) Night Lighting [+12 when the taillights are turned on]
F7 Pins:
1.Red (R) Rear Right (RR) plus (+) speakers source
2.Black (B) Rear Left (RL) plus (+) speakers source
3.White (W) Rear Right (RR) minus (-) speakers return
4.No Connection
5.White Black (W-B) Lighting Intensity [Pull down circuit, voltage level drops {Bright Dash Lights}or raises {dim Dash Lights} Caution with this one, DO NOT CONNECT DIRECTLY TO +12 VOLTS, you will mess up your instrument panel cluster.
6.Yellow (Y) Rear Left (RL) minus (-) speakers return
F8 Pins:
1.No Connection
2.No Connection
3.Violet (V) Speed Pulse Connection (SPD) [Pulses from the speed sensors applied here. This is for the automatic sound level system. The volume raises when the speed is above a specified level, if enabled.]
4.No Connection
5.No Connection
6.Pink (P) Steering Wheel (Switch) Ground (SWG)[common]
7.Orange (O) Steering Wheel (Switch Group) one (SW1) [source for Seek+, Seek-, Volume+, & Volume-]
8.Yellow (Y) Steering Wheel (Switch Group) two (SW2) [source for Mode, (if equipped On Hook, Off Hook & Voice)
9.No Connection
10.No Connection
11.No Connection
12.No Connection
13.No Connection
14.No Connection
15.Orange (O) Auxiliary Right Input (ARI)
16.Brown (BR ) Auxiliary Shield Ground (ASGN)
17.Red (R) Auxiliary Left Input (ALI)
18.No Connection
19.Green (G) Auxiliary Input [Sense](AUXI)
20.No Connection
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: 3 1/2? Tweeters
Car Audio Front Tweeter Depth: 2?
Car Audio Front Tweeter Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Violet
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
DO NOT parallel more than two 8 ohm speakers on either output and you will be OK. You could also use one speaker on each output. That would be easier on the equipment as it would be an 8 ohm load on each instead of a 4 ohm load on one of the internal amps. If you want to drive stage minitors, then you existing setup is fine and you will connect the monitors to the second speaker output and set the Mon switch as MAIN/MON.
hi,
You have to check the ohms of the speakers all spekers should be 8 Ohms or above. if not it will overload the amplifier at high level. The minium ohms impedence of the amplifier is 4 ohms. If you connect two 8 ohms speakers together then the effective ohms will be 4 OHMS then the amp will handle the speakers. If you connect two 4 ohms spekers together then the effective ohms will be 2 Ohms, this will overload the amplifier. You will be able to connect two 8 ohms speaker to left channel or right channel of the amplifier. Check the speaker spesifiction to know its ohms. Make sure all the speakers have an impedence of 8 OHMS or above
OK
You best rewire the cabinet to put the two speakers in series. Wire one speaker plus to minus of the other and bring the other lead, one from each speaker to your jack on the cabinet. The amp output impedance is what is set on the switch... for two 8 ohm speakers you would use both jacks to the two speakers BUT ssince you have 4 ohm speakers the ONLY option is for two in series and set the switch to 8 ohms. The amp is ONLY 30 Watts so don't expect too much sound output... You should get a nice CLEAN sound at a reasonable level. If you drive the amp too hard it will clip and you will get garbage.
This could be the reason. If you look at the specs for this amp you will see that the continuous power out is rated for 380W bridged. The speakers rated at 450W should be able to handle close to 315W continuous. Now if you split these numbers being you have bridged these speakers, you drive each one up to about 190W continuous. The speakers are being driven approximately by 60% of the rated capability. I personally like to keep it right where you got it, not exceeding 80% of the speakers rated capacity.
Here is the link how the speakers are suppose to be connected.
http://www.fixya.com/Uploads/images/94A2E8C.jpg
You notice how they hook it up the left connections are your full range or hi frequency speakers and the switch is on for HPF (High pass Filter meaning only high frequency is being passed thru)
The right connections are connected to subs and the switch is on for LPF (Low pass Filter meaning only low frequency is being passed thru)
If you turn off these switches to off the its FULL RANGE all frequencies will pass thru.
The single output of the radio is probably for a subwoofer output but since your using the amp to power speakers too Its useless because your sending only low frequencies to the amp which will make any speakers connected to the amp sound horrible due too all the highs and mids will be filtered out.
STEP 1. 2 4ohm speakers depending where you put them Front or back. Hook these speakers up to the Radio's speaker wires coming out of the radio harness. You can also call them Hi level output wires FR & FL wires if positioning them in the Front. Hook them to the RL or RR if positioning them in the Back. What ever wires you dont use tape them SEPARATELY . DO NOT TAPE THEM TOGETHER and cause them to touch each other it will short out the radio and you will hear no sound.
STEP 2. Ok get 4 same length speaker wires and cut them long enough to go too the amp. Now these speaker wires will only send the FULL RANGE frequency signals to your amp. So note with a paper and pen how your connecting each speaker wire. I would tape one wire with black tape to remember this is the FR right, 2 tape FR left, 3 tape BK right, 4 tape Bk left. And I would make the copper thread of the wire positive and silver thread of the wire negative (very important so that your in phase and it will sound awesome) mixing up the positive and negatives will give you a tinney sound and it horrible to hear .
STEP 3 connect these 4 speaker wires to the High level out speaker wires coming out of the radio. The wires that are already connected to the 2 4ohm speakers go ahead and splice into them and the ones you didnt use connect to the remaining 2/4 speakers. REMEMBER OR NOTE THE CONNECTIONS cause you have to connect the right sequence and right polarity + & - to the HI Level input of the AMP. You will not use any RCA'S from the radio to the amp anymore. Since your radio dont have any Front & Rear output coming from the back of the radio. (YOU CANNOT USE BOTH RCA INPUT & HI LEVEL INPUT OF THE AMP ITS 1 or the other OR YOU WILL BURN OUT THE AMP AND DAMAGE THE RADIO)
STEP 4. Now connect your 2 6ohm speakers of your front left and back left together in parallel and your 2 6ohm speakers of your front right and back right together in parallel. Look at the diagram hook it on the left connections as in the picture of the front left speaker(but your connecting two 6ohms valued at 3ohms when in parallel and the amp can handle 2ohms so its safe) Do the same connection for your two right speakers as shown in the diagram of the Front right speaker. SWITCH THE HPF to OFF so that you get full range out of your speakers. Mid range is 70% of your music if you turn it ON you are only getting the high frequencies and it will sound awful.
STEP 5. This is the final connection Your 6 ohm sub is very bad for this amp. For example if you bridge it off of the last two channels the amp may double the power. If each channel is 100 watts and you connect the positive to one channels positive and connect the negative to the others channel negative(presuming its bridgeable) On a regular 4ohm sub it will be getting 200 Watts of power which is an average thump. Now you put a 6 ohm sub it will be weak and it will be getting around 130Watts. To make it worse if this 4 Channel amp is not bridgeable you can only connect it to 1 channel and the output will be around 70 WATTS causing distortion due to lack of power. If you still connect the sub be sure the switch is ON.
Good luck cause this the best connection you can do anything different and I'm sorry it will sound even worse. I am a master installer and have done this for 12 yrs. The higher the ohms the worse the sound gets cause less power. Thats why car speakers are 4ohms and home speakers are 6 ohms or higher cause they have a bigger amplifier to power and 120volts AC current. A car only has a 12Volt DC current powering the amp.
Your D-SERIES amplifier was designed to operate efficiently at loads down to 2 Ohms.
This means that you can install four 8 Ohm speakers per channel when using parallel wiring.
of an additional 10W to each speaker.
Please note: The gain control of any car audio amplifier should not be mistaken for a volume
control. It is a sophisticated device, designed to match the output level of your audio source unit to
the input level of the amplifier . Do not adjust this input level to maximum unless your input level
requires it. Ignoring these instructions will result in an input overload to the amplifier, and excessive
2 Ohm Operation
front panel will be illuminated, indicating the amplifier has gone into a self-preservation mode.
these conditions before attempting to power up the amplifier again.
When operating at 2 Ohms, the amplifiers will increase their output power by approximately 50%. The
current draw will so increase by about the same amount, also be sure you have enough current to
run the amplifiers into a 2 Ohm load. If you lack adequate current, your music reproduction will be
distorted.
Increasing the number of woofers per channel at low frequencies (up to 100MHz) produces an acoustic
coupling effect. This acoustic coupling increases your power output by 3 dB per speaker, or the equivalent
audio distortion. It can also cause the protection circuit to engage.
How this reciever is set up is there are left and right A and left and right B Only one 8 ohm speaker should be attached per outlet. if you exceed that your driving the channel at a much lower resistance then the units designed for and the channel will burn up.. Oh it might last a short time but bet your last dollar it will burn up the channel if you over load it.
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