What parts do I need to rebuild H45SB2. It only hammers half the time. Moter runs whenever I pull the trigger

It isnt very clear your explanation of the problem but what type washer do you have first? It sounds like you have a bad unloader or need a new variable nozzle tip. Can you explain in more clear detail. Thanks

You need my rebuild kit. AirNailerParts Nailer Parts

Check for a speed lever on the case that changes the gear ratio from high to low speed There is a button in the front of the trigger and it limits the amount of pull you can give the trigger which controls the resistor setting in the trigger switch. Turning this will alter the speed when you pull the trigger

Usually, rebuild kit has a replacement trigger valve. However if you are attempting to rebuild the valve, pay close attention to the fit of the orings where they make contact. The valve has four parts. End cap, lower body, inner spool and trigger pin. The critical orings are on the pin and spool. Replace all the orings, making sure that parts fit snuggly. The trigger pin orings should fit snug against end cap and inner spool. The inner spool should fit snuggly into end cap and lower half of the valve. Good luck with your repair.

My wife gave me a sixty nine year old Daisy Model 25 for Christmas and it was missing a trigger spring. Finally found the time to do so and it's always an adventure to find old parts.

Thought I would share something I learned from the Internet on how to install the part. Without the proper guidance, it can be a nightmare. Here is the easy solution:

Take the trigger assembly out of the gun and slip the trigger spring in behind. Short end fits in a space behind the hammer/sear; coiled section fits in the space just below. Here is the secret: take a piece of dental floss (waxed is better) and make a small hangman's noose on one end. Use the index finger of one hand to compress the hammer/sear while using the same hand thumb to compress the long end of the spring against the back of the hammer/sear. Slip the noose around the end of the hammer/sear with the long spring, pull the noose tight, wrap it around five to ten times (no need to tie it off--should hold by itself). Now you can install the trigger assembly back in the gun. Hammer/sear is already in the correct position below the installation screw. Snip the dental floss with long nosed scissors or cut with a knife blade. Any excess can be removed with tweezers.

Sounds tricky but it is actually much easier than expected. Takes a little bit of coordination to hold the compressed spring and hammer/sear while slipping the "noose" around the end, but it is worth the effort. Far better than trying to jam the spring behind the trigger already installed in the gun. Less chance to pop out into an eye or lose it as it flies across the room.

Hope this is helpful.

I have echo p403. Similar but not exactly my issue. Rebuild the carb if you didn't already. Alternatively, you can buy a new carb approx 35$. After parts purchase and your time, 35$ isn't to expensive. The carb uses a diaphragm that seems to melts over time and use. I'm not a chemist, I can only tell you what I found inside, the diaphragm was like jelly after 10+ years of use.

Weak main spring. It's the back-most pin in the trigger group. The spring isn't moving fast enough to get the hammer past the half **** notch on the hammer. It's catching the sear. In a pinch, you can just jerk the trigger extra stout, no hesitation. If you have a decent stone, you can stone off the half **** notch on the hammer. The half **** is when you pull the trigger group out of the gun and hold the hammer lightly as you pull the trigger. The spot where the hammer locks straight up and down is the half **** notch. Current hammers don't have the half ****....it's simply not necessary. It was a redundant safety feature if the gun ever fell hard when cocked and chambered. It causes more probs than it fixes, though. You can replace your hammer with a new part....all of them fit including the Mossberg 500 lines....or you can stone the notch yourself....or you can replace the main spring. All will fix your prob.

Great gun, btw! I have one and love it!

If the trigger still works to fire the single shot, then the o-ring kit should be sufficient. If the trigger area continues to leak air, then the trigger should be replaced as well. Keep the gun well lubricated as well.

Dan

Less Than Perfect
The Model 88 had its faults. The trigger moves with the lever and the resulting linkage to the sear results in a rather spongy, creepy trigger break. If you want to see your gunsmith turn pale, waltz into the shop with an M88 and ask for a crisp three-pound trigger.

If you already have taken the gun apart, don't be afraid to hone the parts on a stone , keep them flat, you don't want anything rounded off. Especially the sear. I found that quote up top from a winchester sight,

Use some wd 40 to clean the gun.Put it in where the air goes in,a lot of it.Put a bunch of it in the gun.Then use some transmision fluid to finalize the cleaning.If this helps the gun,then oil the gun with air tool oil.If this dones not work,then a rebuild would be the next step.