The solution suggested by marka19 is for washers with visible control cabinet screws. My problem is that the Kenmore model 11015942401 top load washer does not have any visivle screws. Thanks anyway.The solution suggested by marka19 is for washers with visible control cabinet screws. My problem is that the Kenmore model 11015942401 top load washer does not have any visivle screws. Thanks anyway.
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Hi, Check inside the drum for loose plastic bars that help tumble the
clothes. If you can shake them, open the cabinet top and tighten the
bar screws on the outside of the drum. If any appear stripped and don't
tighten, remove the bar from the machine and inspect for cracking
around the screw holes. If found, replace with new parts. Otherwise,
try breaking off matchsticks in the holes and see if the screws will
tighten. The top is either held on with screws in the back--then slide
the top backwards to remove, or there is a pair of spring clips in the
front corners that require a thin putty knife to be slid into each clip
and pushed until the clip releases. The back end of the top usually has
plastic hinges and won't come entirely free of the cabinet. Hope this
helps!
Could be that the breaker open on the heating elements. Go to http://fisherpaykelparts.net/techhelp/fisher-paykel-top-load-dryers-us-models/ Look at post on "no heat" in this forum will work you through your problem
Removal of the front panel requires the removal of the top cover and the console. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.
Remove the 2 screws attaching the top cover to the rear of the dryer then slide it rearward to clear the screw head from the top cover flange and lift the cover off the dryer cabinet.
Remove the screws securing the heater PCB board and disconnect the black and white wiring harness connectors from the board.
Remove the four screws attaching the console to the washer cabinet and rotate the console down to remove it from the dryer.
Remove the four screws attaching the top of the front panel to the cabinet and the two screws at the bottom of the door opening.
Pull the front panel forward and disconnect the interior light wiring harness then lift the front panel off the tabs across the bottom and move it away from the dryer.
Reinstall the front panel, the console, and the top cover in reverse of the removal steps.
Access to the igniter (part #35001100) requires the removal of the top cover, console, and the front panel. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.
Remove the top cover by removing the two 10-mm screws attaching it to the rear of the dryer then slide the cover rearward and lift it off the dryer cabinet. Take note of the notch in the top cover engaging the screw on the cabinet during reassembly.
Remove the two screws mounting the heater PCB board to the cabinet then disconnect the black and white connectors from the board.
Remove the four screws securing the console to the cabinet then rotate the console down and remove it from the dryer.
Remove the four screws securing the top of the front panel to the cabinet and the two screws at the lower portion of the door opening. Once the screws are removed, lean forward the top of the front panel and disconnect the interior light harness. Lift the panel to disengage the three tabs securing its bottom to the base of the dryer and move the panel away.
Disconnect the igniter harness and remove the single screw attaching the igniter to the burner assembly. Slide the igniter back and remove it.
Install and secure the new igniter then make sure to reconnect the harness. Reassemble the front panel, console, and the top cover by reversing the given removal steps above.
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The LCD screen mask is secured by five screws. These screws
are hidden under the screw seals.
Remove three screw seals from the top and two seals from the bottom of the LCD
mask.
Remove LCD mask securing screws.
Start removing the LCD screen mask with your fingers. Place
your fingers between the mask and the screen and release plastic latches.
To release plastic latches on the side you can use a guitar
pick. Do not use a screwdriver or you can damage the screen.
After all latches are released, you can
remove the LCD screen mask.
first, do you have phillips screws on back of console at bottom goin down or in front bottom? one or the other remove these then slide console forward and fold back on hinge on top. if no screws then clips are hidden on front edge on end plates. use putty knife from front to push and release lifting console at same time. fold back. use screw driver to pry and release brass clips holding top to rear panel. unplug lid sw connector and pull cabinet body away from machine. top and cabinet is screwed together and removed as one piece. cabinet hinges under base on front and sits on top of sides.
There is no easy way to access the heater without stripping it down.
Remove top cover.
Remove 2 scews at rear bottom of cabinet.
Remove 2 plastic covers at front bottom sides of cabinet, and remove 2 screws located in holes, you will need a nut socket to remove them.
Remove inlet hoses, and undo screw at top where the hoses connect to, prize up the plastic retainer that holds the valves in place.
Remove screws at top of cabinet that hold the 2 halves together.
Then lift rear half of cabinet clear of the front.
At the bottom rear you will see the heater element located.
Undo center nut and remove element..
Fit back all parts in reverse order.
Not an easy job. Good luck.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.
I have experience with the original Passport 250 as leader of the design team. To get inside of the speaker cabinet, you will need to remove a couple of small screws that hold in the grille at the top and bottom of the cabinet face. Once these screws are removed, you will need to carefully pry out the grille from its pressure fit in the plastic noting how it is placed so you can reassemble the grill later. Once the grille is removed you will notice several holes located around the outer perimeter of the speaker panel. Inside these holes, you will find the screws that secure the front of the cabinet (part with speaker attached) with the back of the cabinet housing. Once you have all of the screws removed, you can separate the front panel from the housing and fix the wires or dislocated parts such as crossovers, etc.
Once repaired, use the reverse method to reassemble the cabinet. Don't tighten the cabinet screws excessively as they can strip the plastic.
1 Chrome Rail (for attachment to Worktop)
4 Self-Tapping Screws (to attach chrome rail)
1 CO2 Cylinder Support Stand
1 CO2 Cylinder (empty)
1 CO2 Regulator (high/low pressure gauges)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose (red)
2 CO2 Air Line Hose Connectors (black)
1 Beer Keg Coupler
1 Beer Tower Unit (complete with faucet, hose and wing nut)
1 Rubber Washer (to be installed inside wing nut)
1 Beer Tower (Quick Connect) Bayonet Attachment (beer tower installation)
4 Machine Screws (to attach bayonet to beer tower)
1 Gasket (beer tower base)
1 Pull Handle (beer tower faucet)
1 Beer Keg Stand (required for 30 liter keg installations only)
1 Protective Plate (refrigerator cabinet floor)
2 Cantilever Wire Shelves (conversion to all refrigerator application)
1 Chill 'n Tap Exterior Cabinet Plug (located on worktop)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose Plug (located exterior rear cabinet)
1 Plastic Drip Tray (2 piece)
1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5. Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator: Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
CHI 1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the three screws located on the front underside edge of the worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back) side of the worktop. See Fig's. 1 & 2 Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet. 2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends of the rail first) 3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger screws at the rear) 4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder support onto the four studs located on the exterior back wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly. See Fig. 3 5. Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged" CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE: ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS: 6. Installation of C02 Regulator: Attach the CO2 Regulator to the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench. 7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two (self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided. (use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are no leaks) See Fig. 5 Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Fig. 5 LL'N TAP ACCESSORIES (included with this unit)
You need to remove 2 screws in console. They might be in back, on ends or in front ends. If you can't see any, they are under the console end caps. To remove end caps, pry off by pulling caps towards outside from center part of cap. Pry toward you and towards outside. Then remove 2 screws and flip console up and back. Unplug connector to washer cabinet. Remove 2 gold colored clips by inserting straight screwdriver in them and prying back. Make not of their position first. Now tilt cabinet toward you and slide forward and off base. To replace, tilt cabinet and slide under frame in front. Now lower cabinet on to frame, making sure cabinet is on frame on sides. Re-install clips by placing them in position and pushing down with palm of hand. Plug in connector, lower console and install screws.
The solution suggested by marka19 is for washers with visible control cabinet screws. My problem is that the Kenmore model 11015942401 top load washer does not have any visivle screws. Thanks anyway.
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