This one is a new reconditioned saw. Sounds like a contradiction if ever.. I have maybe 10 minuites on it. Will start just fine, and run untill it get somewhat warm then starts running as if spark or fuel is being slowly eliminated. Then it will stall. Will have to wait untill it cools then it starts and does the same thing. It is under warrenty but if this is just a simple fix I would just as well do it myelf as to travel 75 miles to the nearest homelite service center. Have adjusted low and high because it did have a hesitation under throttle but it made no difference. I live 9000 feet high but do not think that that has anything to do with it. Thanks to all who respond. I have been an auto mechanic for 35 years so I will understand what you try to explain.

If I understood correctly, you started using your husband's table saw and while ripping boards, you managed to stall out the blade AND motor?! If that's the case, you probably have a very dull blade and are binding your board on the blade. Neither is safe and it sounds like trouble is brewing.

First and foremost, get someone to show you how to safely and properly use and adjust the saw if you are new to wood working and power tools. That saw is capable of turning your lumber into a high speed missal if you do things improperly.

It also sounds like you tried installing a new 10" saw blade. Changing the blade requires 2 wrenches. One to hold the arbor and one to tighten the nut. The blade itself should rest on the arbor between two large washers. Also make sure you install the blade so the front face of the cutter teeth face you and rotate toward you. Make sure the saw is unplugged when changing the blade and never turn on your saw with a loose blade.

Spring on brush may be weak not holding it in firm enough

On the right track

Sounds like short fuel line, keep tank from getting to low on fuel.

how thick are the boards you are putting through? maybe they are to thick
also have you oiled the blade ?


hope this helps

John

What's the problem they come mostly tougether? They are great saw's! A break down can be found at tools parts direct.com

I think an air leak and she is running lean. Maybe time for some pressure/vacuum testing. Continuing to tweak the carburetor may camouflage a larger problem until the saw fails.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

I am going to assume you are following the warm start procedure in your manual. Most start problems with 2-cycle engines are caused by flooding.

Before you shut if off roll it to the side and loosen the fuel cap (vent tank - leave it loose until restart) Better? Repair fuel vent. No better carburetor needs small adjustment. This explains it better than I can but you will need to experiment some.
Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.

Just because this is the most likely cause:
Start Procedure
Cold:

1. Ignition on/off to on
2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4)
4. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
5. Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)

Warm:

1. Ignition on/off to on
2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
4. Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)

I hope you found this helpful. You can reply below if you need additional help.
Lou

Unless somewhat preformed, brushes have a tendency to arc like crazy and can produce heat and even smoke. I would remove the brushes and use a fine 'keyhole' type file to give them a little inside curve so they have better contact to start with.

Takes a bit of navigating to reach it, but I'll try to help you get there.

Start at this page HERE.
Click "Repair Parts Catalogue"
Click "I HAVE READ THIS PAGE & AGREE TO THE TERMS PROVIDED".
Click the "Model" tab located at top left of page.
In the box labeled "Model Name/Number" type in the following without the brackets [TS1342] and click the "Search" button to the right.
One (1) Result should be found. To the right is a list of two available drawings.
The one you seek is "General Assembly"

Hope this helps,
Dolf-

go to eurton electric from california for replacement switches.