Dryer runs. no heat. got 240 volts to input terminals in back of dryer. tried different heat modes and different fabric settings. still no heat. thanks, [email protected]

Four-Wire: Green

The green wire is the ground wire, and it is the difference between a three-wire and a four-wire cord. (In the three-wire system, the ground wire and the neutral wire are the same.) The green wire connects to the dryer frame. Look at the cord-connection terminals on the back of the dryer. Very close by, you should see a screw sticking out of the metal panel. It will be labeled "external ground connector" or something similar. Connect the green wire to that screw.

Four-Wire: Black

Most appliances in your house run on 120 volts of electricity, some on 240 volts. The dryer needs both--240 volts to run the drum and heating element, and 120 volts to run the timer, thermostat and other components. For this reason, the dryer cord has two live or "hot" wires--one black, one red--rather than a single hot wire. The dryer draws 120 volts from each hot wire to get the 240 volts it needs for the heavy work, then pairs one hot wire with the neutral wire for the 120 volts to run the smaller functions. Look again at the connection terminals on the back of the dryer. There should be three screws in a horizontal row. Connect the black hot wire to the terminal on the left.

Four-Wire: Red

Connect the other hot wire, the red wire, to the terminal on the right. (In truth, you could connect either hot wire to either hot terminal, but it's standard procedure to put the black on the left and the red on the right, so do so.)

Four-Wire: White

The white is the neutral wire, and it connects to the center terminal. There may be a metal strap attached to this terminal. That's a ground strap. When a three-wire cord is attached, it serves the same function as the ground screw mentioned above.

Three-Wire: Gray

If you have a three-wire cord, then all three wires will be gray. They're arranged side-by-side with the hot wires on the outside and the neutral wire in the middle. Attach the hot wires to the left and right terminals and the neutral wire to the center terminal. Make sure the ground strap is attached to the center terminal.

Heat circuit also runs through timer and motor

If it is an electric dryer, the first thing to check is if you have 240 Volt going into the dryer, and 120 Volt from either "outside" terminal to the "center " terminal. If you have that, you would have to run down all the wiring and look for loose connections, burnt terminals, etc.

check to make sure you have 240 volts input to dryer,then check for burned off neutral power wire ,power terminal board,hi-limit switch,thermal switch,heat cycling switch,bad heat element

HI

THE DRYER HEATER OPERATES ON 240VOLTS. CHECK TO BE SURE YOU HAVE 240 VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. WITH ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT, THE MOTOR WILL RUN ON 120 VOLTS, BUT THE HEAT CIRCUIT WILL NOT.

MOST DRYERS HAVE A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT NEAR THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. SOME HAVE A THERMAL FUSE AS WELL. THE HIGH LIMIT WILL CYCLE, BUT THE THERMAL FUSE WILL NOT RESET. CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE HEATER TERMINALS. IF YOU HAVE IT, THE HEATER IS BAD.
IF NOT, TRACE BACK THROUGH THE CIRCUIT UNTIL YOU FIND THE COMPONENT WITH THE 240 VOLTS ACROSS IT.
THAT WILL BE THE BAD COMPONENT.

MAKE SURE THE SELECTOR SWITCH IS SET FOR HEAT.
OITHER ITEM IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT:
CYCLING THERMOSTAT, TIMER, SELECTOR SWITCH, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH.

THANKS FOR CONTACTING FIXYA.COM

On the back, there may be a red push button to reset. where the dryer has overheated. If the heating element is only heating on a soft dry, wollens, etc, the element needs replacing. Keep checking your lint filter after every dr, to prevent a reset situation. Hope it helps, Regards Dave.

My generic wiring diagram doesn't show this dryer uses a thermistor, only thermostats. The difference is a thermistor has to have an electronic control to interpret the values the thermistor is sending. A thermostat is mechanical and only open or closes at a preengineered temperature. You would need to check the ohm readings of a thermistor at different temperatures to test it, but you only need to know continuity or no continuity to test a thermostat. First make sure you have 240 volts to the dryer, the heater is the only part that needs 240 to run. It's possible for only half of the breaker to trip and give the dryer only 120 volts, in this case everything but the heater would run. If you've got 240 volts, to the dryer, unplug it, then check for continuity between the 2 terminals of the 2 thermal fuses, cycling thermostat, and hi limit thermostat and heater. Remember you must disconnect one wire before testing to prevent incorrect readings. If it still runs, just no heat, the 2 thermal fuses should be ok, but check them anyways. If they all test ok you'll need to check the temp selector switch. You'll need the wiring diagram to show which terminals to check at each heat setting. If that checks out you'll need to move to the timer, again you'll need the diagram. If the timer checks, the only thing left is the centifugal switch in the motor, and the only way to check that is to test it with the motor running.

NO HEAT, CHECK THE FOLLOWING:
1. CHECK SETTINGS OF THE SELECTOR SWITCH. MAKE SURE A HEAT SETTING HAS BEEN SELECTED.
2. IF IT IS AN ELECTRIC DRYER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET.
3. CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT WHILE THE DRYER IS RUNNING. IF NO 240 VOLTS, TRACE WIRING BACK TO OTHER COMPONENTS OF THE HEAT CIRCUIT. WHEN YOU FIND 240 VOLTS ACROSS THAT COMPONENT, THAT IS THE BAD ITEM.
4. CHECK FOR BURNT WIRES IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT. (HEATER, THERMOSTAT, HIGH LIMIT THERMO, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, TIMER, THERMAL FUSE).

CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. A DRYER WILL RUN ON HALF THE 240 VOLT CIRCUIT BUT WON'T HEAT.
IF THE VOLTAGE IS THERE, CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE HEATER. IF IT IS THERE AT THE TERMINALS OF THE HEATER, AND THERE IS NO HEAT, THE HEATER IS BAD.
IF NO VOLTAGE IS PRESENT, TRACE BACKWARDS THROUGH THE HEAT CIRCUIT AND CHECK EACH COMPONENT IN THAT CIRCUIT. IF ONE OF THEM HAS 240 VOLTS PRESENT, THAT IS THE BAD COMPONENT.
POSSIBILITIES ARE, HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT, CYCLING THERMOSTAT, THERMAL FUSE, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, HEAT SELECTOR SWITCH, TIMER. POWER CORD.

THE DRYER HEATER OPERATES ON 240VOLTS. CHECK TO BE SURE YOU HAVE 240 VOLTS AT THE OUTLET. WITH ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT, THE MOTOR WILL RUN ON 120 VOLTS, BUT THE HEAT CIRCUIT WILL NOT.

MOST DRYERS HAVE A HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT NEAR THE HEATER ASSEMBLY. SOME HAVE A THERMAL FUSE AS WELL. THE HIGH LIMIT WILL CYCLE, BUT THE THERMAL FUSE WILL NOT RESET. CHECK FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE HEATER TERMINALS. IF YOU HAVE IT, THE HEATER IS BAD.
IF NOT, TRACE BACK THROUGH THE CIRCUIT UNTIL YOU FIND THE COMPONENT WITH THE 240 VOLTS ACROSS IT.
THAT WILL BE THE BAD COMPONENT.

MAKE SURE THE SELECTOR SWITCH IS SET FOR HEAT.
OITHER ITEM IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT:
CYCLING THERMOSTAT, TIMER, SELECTOR SWITCH, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH.