Need some help!

hi Marilyn.
this is what i have found but not sure if this will help you out,if not go to the link at the bottom and see if it helps you out.

Step 1

Make sure the washer's cord is plugged in to a functioning outlet if the Admiral washer won't fill with water. Check your circuit breaker to make sure the power is on and reset it if necessary. Reset the dial and start the washer again. Turn both of the washer's faucets on to full power. Untangle any inlet hoses to remove clogs. If this doesn't work, your hose filter screens could be clogged. Disconnect the hoses from the washer and clean the screens of any residue.

Step 2

Close the washer's lid completely if the Admiral washer will not agitate. The washer will not start if the lid is open. Restart the washer by setting the control dial to the desired cycle. Momentary pauses during cycles can be expected. You may need to wait a minute or two to see if the washer starts. Check the circuit breaker to make sure the washer is getting power. Reset the circuit breaker if necessary.

Step 3

Check and reset the circuit breaker as above if the Admiral washer will not spin or drain. Untangle any of the washer's hoses to allow water into the machine. Check your drains for clogs that may be preventing water to move into the washing machine. Close the lid and restart the washer. The washer will not start if the lid is not completely closed. If there are excessive soap bubbles in the washer, the washer may have locked up because of this. Wash the load again without adding detergent.

Step 4

Rearrange the laundry so it is evenly distributed if the Admiral washer stops or if laundry is still wet at the end of a cycle. Untangle any laundry from the center post in the wash tub. Select the correct water level for the amount of laundry. Select a normal spin cycle for jeans, towels or other heavy loads. Close the lid and start the washer.

Step 5

Check the hoses to make sure they are tightly connected to the Admiral washer if it leaks water. If they are loose, tighten them with a screwdriver. Make sure the drain hose is secured to the drainage area. Avoid putting too much laundry in your machine or soaking laundry for over 30 minutes.

Step 6

Make sure the Admiral washer is on a level plane if it is excessively noisy. If it is not on even ground, move the washer so that it is level. Remember that some washer noise is normal. Thin floors can cause the washer to vibrate and move about and the noise level may rise and fall depending on the speed of the cycle.

admiral washer does not work on wash cycle Google Search

try running a cycle with Oxiclean. Then leave the lid open to dry out.

When loading the machine, load towels, sheets or jeans with an accordion fold instead of putting the laundry in a circle around the agitator. It helps to put the clothes in at the twelve o'clock position, then six o'clock, then nine o'clock and then three o'clock. Repeat this sequence until the washer is full.
The laundry can circulate much better and get cleaner too.

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

I started adding 1 cap of bleach with 1 cup of water to all my loads in the bleach dispenser and this stopped the smell problem with my sweaty clothes.Sour towels i fixed with using Win high performance sports detergent plus my usual dose of he detergent along with a 2nd rinse.Keep the lid open when not in use always.

Could just be the brushes on the motor
jb

hi i would check the lid switch this could cause your problem thanks the appliance doc

you may have leaned on lid and damaged the lid switch , so the washer thinks the lid is open all the time unit will fill then stop with lid up.