Whirlpool washer model #lsr5132hq1- drum turns but agitator doesnt on second spin cycle until you give it a spin by hand. ok on first spin cycle

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.



Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.



Or try the hand test:



If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.



- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.



next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!







Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in Whirlpool Kenmore...

I found replacement agitator dogs at a local appliance parts store. Pretty simple fix for the worn-out dogs. The parts came with installation instructions.
If the drum won't turn by hand, then it's probably a stuck drum brake just above the transmission. You can fix it by putting a little dab of silicone grease on the inner surface of the cup-shaped brake drum, and then working the drum back and forth until the grease comes in contact with the brake shoes. You can do this from the bottom of the machine without removing any panel - just tip it over on its back.

Open the washer in the back and check the drum+agitator.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

First, see the following Whirlpool Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If it drains and you can hear the motor trying to turn the transmission for the agitate mode, the obvious first answer is the Motor coupler. I'd replace it just to be sure.

If it's not the Coupler, the problem points to the transmission itself.

There are only two components of the gearcase that are used for both agitating and spinning.

One is the Agitator shaft which drives the agitator and holds the spin pinion that drives the clutch for spinning.

The other is the main "Bottom and pinion gearcase" itself.

Please see the following Whirlpool parts list for commercial top load direct drive washers although the consumer models use the same transmission parts.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php This site shows your lid switch. Just enter your model number. The lid switch is the usual suspect for your symptom.

Hi, There are capacitors that give an initial boost to start the motor moving and these tend to go bad from sitting for long periods, that's why you could give it an assist and it would work, you are providing the extra boost. Helping it though causes other problems, like belt and voltage control problems, so that is not a good idea. You should have it looked at if you are not electrically or mechanically inclined. Best of luck to you!

You have a bad pully cam or brake

check hub nut, it is likely loose, its under the agitator. top pops off agitator and bolt hold agitator down.

sounds like the motor control board is bad. you could test the motor to see if it ohms out ok, the diagram has the readings. The diagram should be on the side panel (inside the cabinet) on the lt side in a brown envelope.