The " rail " underneath for the opening and

Servicing the rails on a 190mm slider can help to improve the smoothness and stability of the slide motion. Here are some steps you can take to service the rails on your slider:

1. Clean the rails: Use a clean, dry cloth to wipe away any dirt, dust, or debris that may have accumulated on the rails.
2. Lubricate the rails: Use a lubricant specifically designed for camera equipment, such as silicone lubricant or Teflon-based lubricant, to lubricate the rails. Apply a small amount of lubricant to a clean cloth and wipe the rails thoroughly.
3. Tighten the screws: Make sure that all the screws on the slider are tight. Loose screws can cause the slider to be unstable and difficult to slide.
4. Check for worn or damaged parts: Inspect the slider for any worn or damaged parts, such as bent or twisted rails, or a worn or damaged bearing. If any parts are found to be worn or damaged, they should be replaced.
5. Test the slider: After servicing the rails, test the slider to ensure that it is moving smoothly and that the right slide is no longer loose.

It's worth noting that it's important to use the correct lubricant, as using the wrong type of lubricant can cause damage to the slider. If the problem persists, it would be best to contact

Be sure nothing like a floor mat or tarp/blanket is over the "load to here" line marked at bottom of rear floor latch area. Also could be a micro switch going bad inside the power door operating mechanism. It has 2 of these. One lets it know when lift gate is fully open and the other shuts off motor and light on dash when fully closed and latched. A plastic sliding point rides the mechanism rail and pushes the micro switch. Or the micro switch has worn or dirty contacts inside of it making it work intermittently. Also the plastic slide point could be worn as to not push the switch in fully at contact. Not an easy fix. You have to remove the interior panels on right rear of vehicle and closely watch it operate to locate these switch points.

The issue is probably a worn out drawer interlock - that is to prevent you from opening more than one drawer at a time so the unit will not tip over on you.
Remove one drawer and check the mechanism (worn out or bent).
JOAT

What is the model number of your unit?

The rail it has a plastic bushing they are worn? you need to check them

Hello

A stuck drawer indicates a jammed mechanism or the presence of a mechanical drawer lock.

Locate your DVD player's manual Eject button. It is usually a small hole located underneath the DVD drawer.

Insert a stiff wire-such as a paperclip or safety pin-into the hole. Push gently and the drawer should open partway. Gently pull the drawer the rest of the way open.

Hi now to see if the lid is closing open the drawer and on the left and right sides of the drawer you will see a round plastic locking tab.In the middle of the tab you will see a molded center that you can grab with long nose pliers. Grab hold of the center and pull them out away from the drawer. now once you do this pull the front cover down gently and remove the earth wire attached. Now close the drawer and select a cycle and push start.When you push start look to the bottom left and bottom right and you will see the lid actuators. are they the screw type or the solonoid type?now if they are the screw type then you will see a threaded rod screwing down as the lid closes..The side that could be faulty, or not closing properly, is the threaded rod that doesnt come down as far as the other one.On your other question there is a micro-switch at the end of the sliding rail that activates when the drawer is closed.see how you go and if you need further help please reply.please turn off power before you remove the front cover.

This procedure works on almost all Electrolux plastic body canister vacuums. Caution: Always be sure that your machine is unplugged from the electrical outlet before servicing.
Remove the hose from the front cover and pull the electric cord out 2 or 3 feet. Remove the paper bag. Place the vacuum upside down on a work bench with some kind of pad underneath. Open the bag door and pull the end of the soft plastic rail cover out slightly (on both sides) to expose the rigid plastic side rails underneath. If you look directly at the side rails from the front you will see that the ‘T’ shaped part of each rail slides into a channel that locks the top and bottom halves of the machine together. The rails have notches or barbs on the last half inch or so which keep the rails from sliding out. You will need to get these notches away from the channel by sliding a narrow flat blade screw driver in between the top of the ‘T’ and the channel. Just tap it in and leave it there while you pull the rails out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Next, take a look at the bag door hinges. They have a square hole in the center through which a small tab from the bag compartment pokes through. Take a larger flat blade screwdriver and carefully pry the edge of the hinge away from the tab. This will release the bottom section (which is really on top now of course).
If you remembered to pull out the two or three feet of cord before you started then you should now have enough slack so that you can lay the bottom section aside.
If you plan to do any electrical work be sure to mark the locations of the wire connections. Electrolux Service Centers are the only source of wiring diagrams and they don’t like to share.
Be very careful working on the cordwinder. The spring could release and fly out. You might get lucky and discover that the cord is just stuck.If so, just wind the spring so as to get it to take up the cord. If the spring has come loose you will need to replace the entir cord reel

This procedure works on almost all Electrolux plastic body canister vacuums. Caution: Always be sure that your machine is unplugged from the electrical outlet before servicing.
Remove the hose from the front cover and pull the electric cord out 2 or 3 feet. Remove the paper bag. Place the vacuum upside down on a work bench with some kind of pad underneath. Open the bag door and pull the end of the soft plastic rail cover out slightly (on both sides) to expose the rigid plastic side rails underneath. If you look directly at the side rails from the front you will see that the ‘T’ shaped part of each rail slides into a channel that locks the top and bottom halves of the machine together. The rails have notches or barbs on the last half inch or so which keep the rails from sliding out. You will need to get these notches away from the channel by sliding a narrow flat blade screw driver in between the top of the ‘T’ and the channel. Just tap it in and leave it there while you pull the rails out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Next, take a look at the bag door hinges. They have a square hole in the center through which a small tab from the bag compartment pokes through. Take a larger flat blade screwdriver and carefully pry the edge of the hinge away from the tab. This will release the bottom section (which is really on top now of course).
If you remembered to pull out the two or three feet of cord before you started then you should now have enough slack so that you can lay the bottom section aside.
If you plan to do any electrical work be sure to mark the locations of the wire connections. Electrolux Service Centers are the only source of wiring diagrams and they don’t like to share.

Carefully look at the door gasket to see if any irregularity in seal. Could be problem with door seal; or you could easily change door mechanism thru a spare part shop quoting your model and spare-part No or "door mechanism"