We have a kenmore model 106.74252400. there is no water coming into the ice maker. we are getting water to the dispenser and to the filter. just took ice maker out and did not see any problems. all fans are working. freezer is freezing all other things. just not getting water to make ice. No water in Ice maker. Cycle will not start.Water dispensor OK. Water vales OK. Pulled Ice Maker unit, powered with 110 ac,everything looks OK.
The water-supply line enters a valve in the refrigerator that is controlled by an electric solenoid and sends water through a fill tube into a mechanized icemaker assembly. There, the water freezes and is dumped into an ice bin. When the bin is full, the ice lifts a bail wire that turns off the icemaker.
If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work—or if the bail wire is lifted—the icemaker won't make ice. Also note that your home's water pressure must be strong enough to serve the needs of the icemaker (see your owner's manual).
Here are a few steps you can take to get your icemaker working (be sure the bail wire above the ice tray is in the down position):
1) If the icemaker doesn't make ice but you can see the arm swing into motion and you hear a buzz for about 10 seconds after it is finished, the water valve is asking for water that isn't arriving. This means the valve and the solenoid are probably okay, but the water supply is not. Be sure the water supply line isn't kinked behind or beneath the refrigerator (Ό-inch copper tubing is much better than plastic fill line).
2) Check to see if something has caused ice to back up around the mechanism—this can cause the fill tube to freeze, blocking the mechanism. When ice cubes are small and seem to be getting smaller, it generally indicates a frozen fill tube.
3) Check the water line that enters the back of the freezer for a blockage. Find the water shut-off valve behind the refrigerator or under the sink, turn it off, unscrew the copper line from the back of the refrigerator, put the copper line in a bucket, turn on the valve, and see if pressurized water pours out.
4) Check the tap valve; a bad tap valve may cause the problem where the icemaker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a Ό-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can do this yourself, or call a repairperson or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.
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We had a problem with ice maker not making ice. After alot of concern it turned out we just needed to replace the filter.
A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may
have a
problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor.
Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered
with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool.
If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom,
or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost
build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through
an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system.
Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan
that need
to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants,
they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin
and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a
car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the
back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use
thiscondenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning
brush
, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the
refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from
the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean
the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan
a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor
cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is
running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that
there is
a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door
gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast
of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the
evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed
to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour
time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a
day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these
coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to
the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost
component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When
this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With
no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment
will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best
to
remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your
thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to
48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an
overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the
thermostat back
to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly,
the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other
components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the
defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still
doesn't
get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level
and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.
It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off.
If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire.
If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire.
The ice maker head assembly may have broken
parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small
plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice
maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can
just replace it.The
ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage
using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts! Also
replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if
necessary.In
either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again. Also make
sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the
freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.
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There r two possibilities..1.. being the fill nozzle is frozen. Thats the little black rubber hose hanging down from the ceiling of the freezer above the icemaker.2...the icemaker gear cud be broken . The ice maker will have to be removed to check this. Hope this helps!
Thanks for using Fixya
SOURCE: no water to ice maker
This could be because the ice is clumped in the ice bin. When
the
automatic defrost cycle occurs, heat is transferred to the freezer
area. This can cause the cubes to melt slightly and refreeze back
together. You can take the bin out and give it a good shake, or simply
discard the cubes and start over with a fresh batch of ice cubes. By
increasing the amount of food in the freezer compartment, you may be
able to buffer the heat that comes from the defrost cycle and avoid
clumping issues.
If you have a large ice bin and hardly use any ice, it is
possible
that the cubes have gotten stuck together just from the weight of the
cubes on top of others.
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Solution # 1 does not apply because I always keep my coils clean.
Besides the water not filling the tray which should start the cycle right after ice being dumped, I noticed the red light next to the
sensor beam binking two times. The trouble
shooting sheet indicates this as a problem with
the sensor beam being blocked which it is not.
Could there be a problem with the sensor beam
circuity.
Richard Griswold
i just changed out my ice-maker. it has been an hour...when will it fill?
Ice maker not filling. I thawed the ice plug at the black rubber filler tube, and changed the filter. I also reset the water filter system "yellow light" now green.
There does not appear to any reason for no ice, any suggestions. This is a Kenmore side by side with a door dispenser for water and ice.
i have a frigidare refrigerator,they are installing a culligan good water machine in our home tomorrow. it will have a seperate line for drinking and going to the icemaker. can i get rid of my filter in refrigerator and run it direct. if so how?
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