I burned out a few circuits on the electronic touch control by wiring it improperly. Can the electronic touch control be repaired at a reasonable cost or do I have to replace it at a cost of over $500. Thanks.

Error F14 on a Hotpoint induction hob typically indicates a problem with the touch control panel. Here are a few things you can try to fix this error:

1. Disconnect the power supply to the hob for a few minutes, then reconnect it and see if the error persists.
2. Try cleaning the touch control panel with a soft, dry cloth to remove any dirt or grime that may be causing the error.
3. If the problem persists, you may need to reset the touch control panel. To do this, you will need to locate the reset button, which is usually located underneath the hob or inside the control panel. Press and hold the reset button for a few seconds, then release it and see if the error persists.

If these steps don't fix the problem, it's possible that the touch control panel is faulty and will need to be replaced. You may need to contact a professional for this repair.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.

Error code 22 on a Defy Slimline hob usually indicates an issue with the touch control panel or power supply. Here are a few steps you can try to resolve the issue:

1. Turn off the power to the hob at the circuit breaker for a few minutes, and then turn it back on. This can reset the electronics in the hob and clear the error.
2. Check the hob's power supply. Make sure the hob is getting power from the electrical outlet or circuit breaker. If the hob is plugged in, try plugging it into a different outlet or resetting the circuit breaker.
3. Check the touch control panel. Sometimes, the error code can be caused by a problem with the touch control panel. Make sure the panel is clean and free of debris or moisture. If the panel is damaged, it may need to be replaced.
4. Contact a qualified technician. If the above steps don't resolve the issue, it may be a more serious problem with the hob's electronics or power supply. Contact a qualified technician or the manufacturer for further assistance.

An E6 error code on a Belling induction hob typically indicates an issue with the power supply or the circuit board that controls the back two rings. Here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Reset the hob: Try turning off the power to the hob for a few minutes and then turning it back on. This can sometimes reset the circuit board and clear the error code.
2. Check the power supply: Make sure the hob is receiving a stable and adequate power supply. Check the circuit breaker or fuse for the hob to ensure it is not tripped or blown.
3. Check the wiring: Inspect the wiring and connections for the back two rings to ensure they are not loose or damaged. Tighten any loose connections or replace any damaged wiring.
4. Contact a professional: If the issue persists, it may be a problem with the circuit board or control module. In this case, it's best to contact a professional technician or the manufacturer for assistance with repairs or replacement parts.

I hope this helps you resolve the issue with your Belling induction

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges,the oven temperature sensor
is the part thatregulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meterbut will need to know the correctresistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.

1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.

1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.

1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".

1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.

1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.

1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.

If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

A wiring diagram is a simple visual representation of the physical connections and physical layout of an electrical system or circuit. It shows how the electrical wires are interconnected and can also show where fixtures and components may be connected to the system. Use wiring diagrams to assist in building or manufacturing the circuit or electronic device. They are also useful for making repairs. DIY enthusiasts use wiring diagrams but they are also common in home building and auto repair. For example, a home builder will want to confirm the physical location of electrical outlets and light fixtures using a wiring diagram to avoid costly mistakes and building code violations.
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Disconnect power from the unit. Open it up to gain access to the coil and controller. Disconnect the coil and use an ohmmeter to check its continuity. If it is open, replace it. Also inspect the connector pins and sockets to make sure they are not corroded or oxidized. (If the connector shell or the wire insulation at the connector show signs of overheating, this is very likely where the problem is.) Clean and polish, or replace the connector contacts if necessary.

If the coil, coil wiring and connector pass, then inspect the controller board - if the coil drive switching device (probably a transistor for a high-frequency induction system) runs hot, it may cause thermal fatigue in the solder on the bottom of the board, leading to a cracked connection. The repair is to remove the burned solder, polish the affected transistor lead with fine-grade Scotch-Brite abrasive, then resolder with lead-free (i. e., high-temperature) solder. It may be necessary to wrap a short piece of 18 or 20 AWG wire around the transistor lead and bridge it across the pad to the circuit trace going to the coil connector if the board is damaged from the heat.

If both of the power connections on the transistor are overheating, the transistor probably does not have a good thermal connection to its heatsink. In that case, you should remove the transistor, clean up the heat sink transfer grease, put a thin film of new heat transfer grease on the transistor, and remount it. (This is not ordinary grease, it's a compound specially made for the job - you can get it at any electronic supply or computer component supplier). If there is a mica insulator sheet between the transistor and heat sink, carefully clean both sides, and apply the heat transfer compound to both sides of the insulator instead of the transistor. Do not apply too much; you want just enough to make sure there is good thermal contact between the adjoining surfaces. If there is a rubber-like sheet between the transistor and heat sink, but no grease, inspect the sheet for tears or hardening, and do not use grease for reinstallation. You may find that the transistor was not flat up against the heat sink because the lead bends held it away from the mounting surface. In that case, tweak the leads using two pairs of needle nose pliers - one next to transistor case to keep the bend from cracking the seal at the case, and the other to bend the lead.

NOTE: do not touch the gate/base lead (left side lead on most power transistors) with your fingers or a tool unless you are first touching the other two leads to discharge any static electricity buildup. The gate is easily damaged by static electricity from your clothing, even if you can't feel it discharge. Likewise, do not put the transistor on plastic unless it is the anti-static kind. The entire controller board should be considered static-sensitve. Handle it only by the edges; avoid touching the circuitry. If you must remove it, place it component side down on your work surface so static discharges from the work surface won't reach the printed wiring on the board, or use an anti-static work mat.

If these measures do not solve the problem, you may have to replace the controller board.

Good Afternoon friend, that's a great question!

From my understanding your Electrolux range is displaying a code of "d-o". The code could stand for open door, could be missing a sequence, or a miscommunication within the control panel. I would recommend performing a reset on your range and you can do that by flipping the household circuit breaker off for roughly ten minutes. If that does not help resolve your issue I would suggest having a professional technician out to perform a proper diagnosis and repair. Hope this information is helpful. -Matt

When you used all elements the power supply wire have been
gone to the maximum current absorbed so to the maximum heat. When the cook top
is new it can withstand this heat but due to long time used now you have burned
out wires and probably to junction point. So now the power supply wire is
burned and is open circuit thus not any power to the heater. The wires have
just open circuit and they don't touch each other or the metal body of the cook
top that is why you don't have the circuit breaker fuse to trip off. So now you
need to disassemble the cook top and you will very easily find the burn point
which should be melded and burned black and replace all parts that they have
been burned with new one.

Here is the link where you find the parts layout, the wiring
diagram and also order any parts you might need.

Also just for safety, avoid to use all four heater at the
same time in the future.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5170741&diagram_id=28477270#d28477270

Hi,
Here below we have aprocedure to try to see if you can save the ERC.
F1 touch pad / ERC test
This simple test will help determine
whether the ERC (Electronic Range Control or Clock) or the touch pad is
defective when F1 error code is present.

Note: Some models
incorporate the touch pad in to the ERC as a single assembly, in which case this
test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC (Clock).

Warning: If
you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or making this repair,
please contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

1. Disconnect
power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the power off to the
range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that the power to the range
has been disconnected, so please double check before continuing.
2. Gain
access inside the control panel.
3. Disconnect the touch pad (also called
keypad or membrane switch) ribbon from the ERC.
4. Make sure there are no
lose wires, or anything else that may cause a short when power is turned back
on. Assemble the control panel back the way it was.
5. Turn the power back
on.
6. Wait for at least one hour to see if the F1 code comes back (usually
accompanied by a beeping sound).
7. If F1 comes back, replace the ERC. If it
does not, replace the touch pad.