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This could be caused by several reasons, such as a clogged drain hose, a faulty pump seal, a worn out tub seal, or a loose hose clamp.
Check the hoses for any signs of damage, wear, or leaks. If you find any, replace them with new ones.
Check the hose clamps for any signs of looseness or corrosion. If you find any, tighten them or replace them with new ones.
Check the pump seal for any signs of damage, wear, or leaks. If you find any, replace it with a new one.
I should take the top off the machine and follow the mains cable as the terminal block it attaches to the screws may have come loose also if you can get a friend with a multimeter to check the cable for continuity in other words if the cable itself is not faulty eric
most washers will stop what ever there doing (filling) if you open the lid this is a std safety feature . and sometimes this same switch malfunctions and gives a false indication of a door open
More info would be helpful (model? top loader/ front loader?)
If it fills then stops filling (ie. knows that it is full) yet does not turn, and no sounds etc, it is likely a motor control module or motor start capacitor or maybe PCB (If fully electronic). Does it spin if you manually turn the cycle to the spin point?
try adjusting the top thread tension and see if that helps the loose stitches also try a new needle and make sure the machine is threaded correctly using every thread guide.
depends on what brand and type of unit... is this a front loader a top loader and what brand.. is it direct drive or belt driven.... if it is belt driven could be a bad belt or pulley...if it is direct drive such as a top load whirlpool ,kenmore,roper, you could have a bad drive coupling which is located between the motor and transmission under unit.... if this is a front loader there are numerous items it could be example a motor controller board, main pcb board.
if everything is working but the spin mode and this is a top loader unit may want to check the lid swich that will cause the unit to not spin.... hope this helps kinda a vague description of your probelm....good luck and give me a vote i need them....
I HAVE LG WF-583 FULLY AUTO W/M AND MAIN CONTROL PCB IS DEAD IN THIS M/C. WHERE SHOULD I GET REPAIRED/ REPLACED THIS PCB AND WHAT WILL BE EXPECTED COST?
you didn't state whether it's a top or front loader. either way, there's a switch activated when the door is closed and washer is in cycle mode- so you can't open the door when a. the front loader has water in it, or b. the top loader is in agitate, or spin cycle. if top loader- there's a tab on the end opposite the hinge side that activates a switch that latches the cover closed when in 'dangerous' cycles (don't want to get your hand caught in the spin cycle!!). either a loose wire or a failed switch! prob. need to gently pop the top (should hinge back) to access the switch. UNPLUG THE WASHER!! if a a loose wire, re-attach-if not, replace switch! easy! good luck!
you could have a jammed power or sart\pause button, these quite often get corrosion on the PCB and then the switches fail ON, if you can turn the machine on it is not dead, it can be repaired but you might want to get a technician in to reapair PCB. Also it would be helpful to know what lights light up when in error mode.
same here i strongly need this piece too
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