Side by Side Can't find model # Not cooling enough

First, I'm not a WOODS tech.
Check your warranty and call for service.
*** Following is for information only.***
* Your circulation fan (usually on the freezer side) has ice building up near fan. OR there is a paper or plastic caught in the fan. Check and clear debris.
* Check for air movement while fan is running. Many have plastic ducting that pulls air from the bottom that is usually covered by the lower drawer. Pull out the lowest tray and check the back for ice or food that fell in back to block the air vent. If it's iced up, DON'T hit it as you will crack the plastic. Leave the door open, Turn off and let the freezer defrost. (remove food).
* Check the upper fan vent for ice blockage. Defrost as needed.
* Unplug refrigerator to defrost. (Get help to move as the fridge is heavy and may tip over on you.)
* Once completely free of ice (it takes a while. A fan blowing into the freezer helps. ***DONOT use a heater!*** Warps panels and may over pressurize refrigerant.)
* Allow a completed defrosting of the freezer. (Place frozen foods in refrigerator side to keep it cold while the refrigerator is off. Better to transfer everything to another refrigerator.)
* Keep checking and dumping the drain tray as the ice melts. If no water drains then the line may be clogged. Call for service.?
* Plug in refrigerator but leave out where you still can unplug it if you need to continue to defrost. Move it back only if everything is working (so far).
* Set the temperature to middle of dial and the freezer diverter to normal (middle). Leave fridge empty to allow it to cool down without a load. Check for icing (there shouldn't be any as there is no moisture in box to ice up.) If there is ice then it did not defrost enough. Turn off and repeat manual defrost (open door)
* Once your sure all the ice is gone and the freezer is cold. Move refrigerator back into the counter/wall. (it's lighter but get help anyway.) Start putting back the frozen goods. Try not to cram in everything. Keep enough space on racks to allow air flow AROUND the whole shelf. Keep away from leaning food against the walls and back.
?* Leave the temperature setting at mid range. Your refrigerator should be able to keep food frozen at this setting.
* Check your door seals for cracks
* Check your door perimeter for warmth. It should not be sweating or ice cold. Cool or slightly warm to the touch is normal.
* Check your side panels (not doors). It should be cool but not iced or sweating.
* Final, with the Temperature set at mid range. If your still getting ice then you have a vapor leak. (Moist air getting into the freezer) Note that this moisture can also come from hot moist food placed in freezer without pre-chilling it. If you must put hot food In the freezer. Then place it in the refrigerator section for at least an hour prior to the freezer. The refrigerator can handle the moisture load better than the freezer. The refrigerator just collects the water and drains it to the bottom pan.
* Again, check your warranty and call for service. Have them perform yearly maintenance to check everything.
Aloha, ukeboy57

PS; If everything is okay (so far) then only gradually adjust the temperature SLOWLY. You will find that maxing to the coldest setting will only build up the ice quicker. Normal freezer operation can take care of the occasional (daily) opening of the freezer door. It will 'dry' out the frost and ice build up (If given the chance). But if you find that Ice keeps building then you need a bigger new ice box.

Hi,

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Could be the t stat not shutting the unit off..so it runs all the time untill it freezes the evaporator in the the freezer then it runs and runs and gets hot...or if it has had a compressor replace before..the freon level what not put back in thr right way..meaning its overcharged, or undercharged..this will also do this...The coils are dirty under the unit...

Culd be bad news. I would check to make sure the condenser fan motor is working properley first off. If it is running continuously along with the compresser, I would clean the condenser and call a repair man. What has happened is the compressor has been running too hot, and the oil gets to the point where it separates, that is called the waxing point. Then the oil evaporates into the refrigerant then cools off in the capillary tube ( the metering device into the evaperator) and coats the inside and creates a smaller hole for the refrigerant to flow through and boils it off earlier in the evaperator not allowing the same cooling effect. You will need to call a tech in for this one. Good luck

You may want to do a thorough tuneup on your dryer. I worked on a couple and wrote a pictorial on it. ROPER DRYER TUNE-UP
My Home movie of a Roper dryer with a heat problem:




If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

My water dispensor INSIDE the door froze up.... GE
I payed a repair guy $75 to use MY BLOWDRYER to "thaw" the frozen water line INSIDE the freezer door (below the water dispenser).

He said anytime the frozen food extends over the freezer shelf and touches the freezer door for a long enough period of time, the water line inside the door FREEZES!!

PREVENTION: "Keep some airspace between the door and frozen food."

My water dispensor INSIDE the door froze up.
I payed a repair guy $75 to use MY BLOWDRYER to "thaw" the frozen water line INSIDE the freezer door (below the water dispenser).

He said anytime the frozen food extends over the freezer shelf and touches the freezer door for a long enough period of time, the water line inside the door FREEZES!!

PREVENTION: "Keep some airspace between the door and frozen food."

My water dispensor INSIDE the door froze up.
I payed a repair guy $75 to use MY BLOWDRYER to "thaw" the frozen water line INSIDE the freezer door (below the water dispenser).

He said anytime the frozen food extends over the freezer shelf and touches the freezer door for a long enough period of time, the water line inside the door FREEZES!!

PREVENTION: "Keep some airspace between the door and frozen food."

turn freezer side to zero for 1 minute press water dispenser

if you can get ice but not water from the dispenser then suspect a frozen water line within the door . Check you get water to the connector at the bottom of the freezer door. Sometimes you can clear the blockage by connecting a steamer to the pipe but this will only be a temporary fix . If the pipe has frozen within 6 inches of the dispenser outlet then there is a heater mod that can be fitted WR49X10173