Replaced 30 watt bulb in refrigerator section with 25 watt bulb still will not light otherwise working well, my be switch . freezer section light works

first make sure the light bulb works for sure. then most likely it is the door switch. easy to replace. pull out, disconnect and replace. while you are at it, touch the two wires together and make sure the light goes on so you know it is the switch.

Check the bulbs first, if they look ok, replace the light which. Light bulbs are standard 40 watt found everywhere.

Good Luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Warranty time, call maytag, most fridge come with 1 year warranty.

Some models are different...I hope this helps.

Replacing Light Bulbs
To avoid electrical shock which can cause severe personal injury or death, disconnect power to refrigerator before replacing light bulb. After replacing light bulb, reconnect power.
To avoid personal injury or property damage, observe the following:
• Allow light bulb to cool.
• Wear gloves when replacing light bulb.
Fresh Food Section
(style of light shield varies)
1. Slide clear light shield toward back of compartment to release from light assembly.
2. Remove light bulbs.
3. Replace with appliance bulbs no greater than 40 watts.
4. Replace light bulb cover by inserting tabs on light shield into liner holes on each side of light assembly. Slide shield toward front of refrigerator until it locks into place. Do not force shield beyond locking point. Doing so may damage light shield.
Freezer (style of light shield varies)
1. Reach behind the light cover.
2. With firm pressure, press forward on the notches at the back of the cover and pull down the cover will open from the back.
3. Remove the cover.
4. Remove light bulb
5. Replace bulb with appliance bulb no greater than 40 watts.
6. Insert front tabs of light cover into slots in freezer liner and snap rear portion over light assembly until rear tab engages.

Ric

The actual wattage of the bulb cannot really change anything, perhaps from 10 watts to 30 watts, may, but NOT 25 watts to 30 watts, There simply isn't enough anything to detect if resistance based... I suspect your dimmer is faulty...

The compressors are rated for ambient temp. and most refrigerator compressors are rated for abour 50 degrees F

to answere your question yes the ambient temp is a problem.

And as for the Thawing, the refrigerator will go into defrost every 8 to 10 hrs and turn on the heater inside the freezer for about 30 min.

You can also cause damage to the seal system and the compressor because the oil will become slugish inside the compressor.

In other resarch I found that because of the ambient temp the freon gas (mostly the newer freon's) won't work corectly because they stay in liqued form.

evap. coil could possible be frosting up due to a defrost problem, this would keep the evap. fan from blowing air into ref. section. it also could be a bad evap. fan motor or it could be that the ref. inside light bulb could be staying on due to a bad light switch ,you would be surprisedhow much heat a 40 watt bulb produces

may be the light switch or try this unplug refrigerator on screw bulb look in the socket there is a flat side in it the center get a flat screw deiver pull it up a little put back bulb plug unit if it dont light change switch

hi tanks for the question there are heaters at the spots you said were hot and those heaters are there to prevent moist air from hitting cold surface and create warer droplets from forming on those surfaces i would remove the back of the fridge and vacuum it out that should solve your problem thanks the appliance doc