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MY BIT SEEMS TO BE SLIPPING WHEN I ATTEMPT TO MORTISE WITH AN ATTATCHMENT TO MY DRILL PRESS/ DO I NEED TO BUY A DIFFERENT CHUCK? MY OCTAGON SHAPE ENDED BITS DONT SLIP. OR AM I DOING SOMETHINTG WRONG?
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The chuck could be threaded like an average power drill.
Respectable drill presses use a hollow quill shaft that is likely to be machined into a taper that is likely to be number 1, 2 or 3 Morse taper.
Morse taper drill bits are used a lot - the shank is tapered and will grip and drive when inserted into the quill with just a small force. When the bit is to be removed the quill is turned by hand until a slot in the quill lines up with a slot in the housing and a wedge-shaped steel tool is slid in and tapped breaking the taper fit.
Most such drill presses are supplied with a chuck for light duty drilling already mounted. The chuck is often a Jacobs type mounting by means of a Jacobs taper onto a Morse taper adaptor.
The adaptor is tapered at both ends - at the lower end the taper is steep and the chuck must be pressed on with some force. The upper end will have the same gentle taper of the Morse taper drill bits and is removed in the same way.
Using the chuck drilling is limited to the capacity of the chuck, typically 1/2" or 5/8" unless blacksmith's drill bits are used that have stepped shanks.
Morse taper drill bits will allow heavy duty drilling far in excess of the chuck capacity.
Hopefully your problem is caused by the chuck rather than a bent quill.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtB1MTYtgt8
Nov 19, 2010 - Uploaded by AskWoodMan
All you need is a slip joint pliers and the proper size drill bit. When a drill chuck key goes missing, it can ...
try to jam the chuck so its open. Put the forward and reverse so that it is slipping (like a grinding gear sound) and hold the drill upside down. If that doesn't work ,buy a screw extractor kit.
Sometimes if you happen to have the right size bit, it will stick into the bolt that holds the chuck on if the chuck wasn't tight enought to keep it from slipping further into the chuck. Clamp drill bit in vice and tap chuck with soft hammer to pull it free.
There are a couple of ways to try to free the bit from the drill chuck. But slow and steady is the key, don't hit anything too hard, so as to not damage the chuck in the process, nor break off the bit in the chuck.
You'll need to put the bit into a bench vise and reverse the drill slowly and carefully. Make sure the bit is tightly secured in the vise and that the drill won't spin your hand around and slam it into the bench when you pull the trigger.
As a last resort, you can try tapping the bit sideways, to get it loose. With chuck opened up all the way possible, gently tap the bit sideways. This should also free the bit, but be very careful not to snap the bit off in the chuck, or you'll have a worse situation trying to get a broken bit out of the chuck.
If none of these work, you can attempt to secure the stuck bit in the bench vise and try to tap the drill chuck using a hammer and a flat brass bar resting against the drill chuck, so you don't damage the chuck. Just tap the brass bar to drive the chuck free of the stuck bit. You have to watch the bit in the vise to make certain it's not slipping and that the chuck is getting free.
If it's an inexpensive bit, odds are it's spinning in the chuck. If the chuck key can't tighten the jaws well enough, you'll need to borrow or buy a different drill (or you could replace the chuck).
If you bought an SDS bit (one with slots milled in the shank), you're best off buying a bit made for a standard drill. It's not impossible to get a SDS bit to chuck into a standard drill, but it's difficult and they often slip loose during drilling, messing up the hole.
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