How to bypass system fan connector on board so i can put in a new fan that does not have 3 pin connector

on your board theres is a spot where the fan from the cpu goes it saids cpu fan on the board near by cpu socket

Yep I have a link below you can order the correct fan from.

http://store.cwc-group.com/y4574.html

I had the same issue here, we have 20 offices all running Dells. These fans seem to be used only on dell systems.

on mother board there should be 3 and 4 pin white fan plugs try that

I have a Samsung model HL-S6186 since 2006 and one month out of a 5year extended it would cut of by itself. I would turn it back on and it just progressively worse. After looking at the stories on the internet with others who had similar problems, i ordered a new lamp online for $ 56.00 with the same specs. Put the lamp back and found out that there was arching where the lamp connects to the rear. I dissembled everything cleaned the contacts and repaired the one burnt connector on the new lamp with a connector from the old lamp. Turned the tv on and now i got a check fan #1 problem. ordered an exact lamp fan from Amazon.com for $ 15.00. When it arrived i pulled everything apart and replace the fan, still got a check # 1 fan error message. I was able to download a free service schematic that covers the HL-S5086 Tv. After studying the signal flow i pulled out the DMB board and use a cheap multimeter from Radio Shack that had an audible continuity check position. Just to clarify a few points, on the DMD board the top female connector is from the Lamp ballast/Driver, the middle female connector labeled #cn805 on the board says fan # 3, when it is actually fan # 2 for error messages, and the bottom female connector on the board is labeled fan # 2 , when it is actually fan # 1 for error messages. With the DMD board in my hand and checking the continuity between all three pins of the connector, i discovered that i didn't get continuity between the top most pin where the color code is yellow for the the negative signal that the DMD board is looking for when all is working with these tube axial fans. Sure enough i realize that in my disconnecting the # fan connector i must have cause the solder joint to come loose or it must be a manufactory flaw in the process. The other two connections soldered on the board were solid.After shaking the female connector with receiving pins i decided to resolder the whole connector. This could be very delicate. For some reason the point where the # 1 fan signal gets to the DMD processor would not solder right. Not wanting to destroy the delicate $ 269.00 board , i just soldered a piece of earphone insulated fine wire from the connector point on top to the underside of the printed circuit board just before the signal goes to it's first component.I then cut out a 1/4 inch section of the trim metal that snaps on to the DMD board to insure that it won't tear loose my work. I then Check the continuity between the connector pin where the signal comes from the fan and the underside and i got an audible continuity sound. I put everything back together and my problems are solved. I only need to re-adjust the 4 tension screws that surround the heat sink to place the picture dead center. Be careful when you pull on all connectors, ensure that you bend the tabs the tug gently. Hope this helps someone out there. Incidently i have working and troubleshooting this problem for two weeks, in the meantime due to the basketball and the Super Bowl coming i panicked and went out and purchased my first Samsung 59 inch Plasma Tv package deal with a Blue Ray DVD player an glasses. The 2006 DLP Tv is workin great and the picture is much brighter than before. I have an extra new fan now in case the old # 1 lamp fan fails.

Printed on the MB
HD LED +1 -3
PWR LED +2 -4
RESET 5- 7+ (Why the changed order? & there's no reset button on this computer.)
PWR ON +6 -8

There are nine pins with a little triangle pointing at one and a 2 next to another.
The pins on the MB look like this:

2ndpin
. . . .
. . . . .
1st pin


Found some info on the 506GR. Unfortunately Gateway is keeping the service manual a big secret.

This will help. Thanks please keep updated. please do rate the solution positively .Thank you for using Fixya

Regards
manish

Instead of connecting you're fans to a single 4-pin molex on the power supply why not use the motherboards 3-pin molex fan connectors coming off the motherboard. See page 2.2.4 in your manual. Though I agree you should still be able to run 4-pin molex connectors to all fans off of you're PS. Allow the mother board to supply the 12v current to you're extra fans.
CHA_FAN1
CHA_FAN2
CHA_FAN3
CHA_FAN4
You're motherboard will supply the needed power. Less wiring will also allow better air flow through out the system and less strain to the fan controllers.
4-pin molex to 3-pin female; http://www.avadirect.com/product_details_parts.asp?PRID=11410
OR
http://www.microbarn.com/details.aspx?rid=101317&source=froogle

Happy New Year!
Mike

4 pins "PWM" fans are specially designed for use with newer motherboards which have 4-pins CPU fan-connector, but the fans are backwards compatible with 3-pins connectors. Just plug the 4-pins fan-header into a 3-pins connector (only 1 way possible) and you're good to go (although you don't get the "PWM" advantages).

You can find more information about the different type of computer fans here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_control

DEPENDS ON WHICH FAN, FAN 1 THE OPTICS FAN ON PIN 1 OF CONNECTOR CN6800 ON THE G BOARD IS 5 VOLTS FAN 2 IS 5VOLTS ON PIN 1 OF CONNECTOR CN6805 FAN 3 THE LAMP FAN IS 7 VOLTS ON PIN 1 OF CN6801 AND FAN 4 THE CHASSIS FAN IS 7 VOLTS ON PIN 1 OF CN6802.

Its a tach fan connector. If the fans are not running, the system will not power up. If the back or lamp cover interlock is not closed it will not power up as well.

If your cpu fan has a 4 pin connector & your mb has a 3 pin you can still use it. Just leave one pin exposed. The extra pin is for a speed control sensor that not all mb's support. The chassis fan has a different connector on the board marked "cha fan". This one is a 3 pin connector. Most of the asus boards have 1 of these. If you wish to run more than one you can either buy a "y" adapter that allows you to connect 2 fans to 1, you could use an extra 4 pin molex to power an extra fan but that would give you no control over the fan, or you could buy a fan controller and hook all your extra fans to it. Hope this helps & please take a moment to rate my solution fixya. Thanks.