Got same problem rang Makita uk they told me to send them back for repair. Other people told me not to use the batteries till they go completely flat or this damages the cells.
SOURCE: Makita 18v Lithium-Ion BL1830 Battery Won't Charge
If you have been a bad boy and managed to short the battery by using it for non-proscribed purposes, the fusible link will blow (kind of like a fuse)
To fix it, open up the battery (use a Torx 10 security bit, or a small flathead in a pinch) On the battery connection nearest the spring-loaded white catch there is a small bridge of metal with a hole in the center. If this is melted you can solder it back together by sanding the two pieces and putting a glob of solder on them. This will void your warranty (duh!) and remove the battery's fuse protection, but it WILL work again.
If the link is intact and nothing else is obviously wrong, you almost certainly have a bad cell. I recommend pulling out the bad cell ( it will be the one that does not read between 2.5 - 4 vdc) and replacing it with one from another dud battery- this requires some fudging and re-soldering.
Or do what I did, pull the cell, toss the electronics and the short pink wire, add a cigarette lighter socket and voila! you have a portable power supply giving around 14 volts. Charge it up by wiring two cigarette lighter male ends together (check polarity , + to + and - to -) and plug it into your car, but only while it is running or you will be charging your car battery with it!
Hope that helps.
Matt Binns
GiantGlobes.com
SOURCE: nicad battery for makita want charge
For NiCd and NiMH batteries - check the battery voltage (for a good battery it is ~ 19, V); each battery contains 15 units 1.2 V each; you can test each unit after disassembling the battery case (my have 4 screws each, and the case has bottom and top parts). First charge the batteries; second, disassemble cases and check each unit voltage (shouldn't be less than 1.2 V); then take any battery tester (for AA, AAA and other batteries and accus for home usage), attach 2 long (~10 inches) wires to tester's testing contacts, and test each 1.2V unit for current - if it is in "yellow" or "red" zone - the unit is dead and needs replacement
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